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Old 01-11-2012 | 02:54 PM
  #3526  
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Originally Posted by nikos2002
2) what is a good throttle punch for 2wd buggy running an 8.5 on a dry.slick track ,thnx for the help
Start by turning it down to like 75% and adjust from there. Some people like it lower, some higher - I think it depends how hard you like to hit the throttle and what your "feel" for it is. I know drivers that leave it at 100% even on slick tracks because they have the ability to control the wheelspin.[/QUOTE]

i like it on 90 on b4.1 13.5 on med high bite, makes it smooth and responsive but not all the power,easier to drive, faster around the track
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Old 01-11-2012 | 03:24 PM
  #3527  
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I need some help for gearing a losi 22 with the 17.5 vtx10 combo. I Could not find any gearing suggestions so I figured I would just ask. I'm guessing somewhere in the 30t pinion and 76t spur?? Thanks!!
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Old 01-11-2012 | 03:34 PM
  #3528  
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I've heard of a few 22 guys running 34/70 with 17.5 and max mechanical timing. I haven't tested this personally on my Durango but gearing is all going to be depend on your track layout and whether or not you need top speed or acceleration.
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Old 01-11-2012 | 03:37 PM
  #3529  
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
I've heard of a few 22 guys running 34/70 with 17.5 and max mechanical timing. I haven't tested this personally on my Durango but gearing is all going to be depend on your track layout and whether or not you need top speed or acceleration.
Yup that's correct , depending on track size you might need to even go up a couple teeth
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Old 01-11-2012 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
I've heard of a few 22 guys running 34/70 with 17.5 and max mechanical timing. I haven't tested this personally on my Durango but gearing is all going to be depend on your track layout and whether or not you need top speed or acceleration.
Thanks for the reply, I'm actually going to be running it for 17.5nr and mod class on a fairly big track. The track was designed to race both 10th scale and 8th scale so it's bigger and more spread out than typical 10th scale tracks.
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Old 01-11-2012 | 04:03 PM
  #3531  
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Originally Posted by tjbgtv8
Thanks for the reply, I'm actually going to be running it for 17.5nr and mod class on a fairly big track. The track was designed to race both 10th scale and 8th scale so it's bigger and more spread out than typical 10th scale tracks.
what class is this? Non boost 13.5/17.5? open?

get a 10.5 if its open.

if your good get an 8.5 since you say its spread out.

If its stock run 13.5.
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Old 01-11-2012 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by idrummerboy13
what class is this? Non boost 13.5/17.5? open?

get a 10.5 if its open.

if your good get an 8.5 since you say its spread out.

If its stock run 13.5.
The classes I'm running in are 17.5nr (non ramping/blinky) and mod class. I kn ow there will be faster guys in mod but I'm more worried about being as smooth as I can.
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Old 01-12-2012 | 04:59 AM
  #3533  
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Originally Posted by kersey527
Well i was at races last night, and i made a costly mistake. I got in a hurry and reversed the polarity, and now my esc wont power up. So do i need to send it in to viper to have it fixed? Or should i just buy another esc? It would cost me 155$ from A main for another VTX 10, does anyone know how much Viper would cost me to repair it? I cant believe i did this, im sooo stupid!
Go Online and fill out the RMA/Service Form on the Viper Website and see what they can do
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Old 01-13-2012 | 12:35 AM
  #3534  
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Any ideas on what I can do.

-ESC won't turn on.
-Was working perfect earlier today. I tore down my buggy to clean everything and make a few adjustments.
-Putting the battery in and connected, and nothing happens.
-No wires are touching, nothing is shorted. Tried all three of my lipo's and nothing changes.
-This is a brand new ESC from Viper. Only a week old.
-I've pulled all the wires off. Both exposed circuit boards are still connected and all solder joints are clean.

I really don't want to have to send this one back.

Anyone?
-Auto
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Old 01-13-2012 | 06:09 AM
  #3535  
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
Any ideas on what I can do.

-ESC won't turn on.
-Was working perfect earlier today. I tore down my buggy to clean everything and make a few adjustments.
-Putting the battery in and connected, and nothing happens.
-No wires are touching, nothing is shorted. Tried all three of my lipo's and nothing changes.
-This is a brand new ESC from Viper. Only a week old.
-I've pulled all the wires off. Both exposed circuit boards are still connected and all solder joints are clean.

I really don't want to have to send this one back.

Anyone?
-Auto
that is weird, check the switch, and check your solder joints, they may look fine but try re tinning them. Sensor cable, water or fluid in case?
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Old 01-13-2012 | 06:37 AM
  #3536  
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Any idea when the copperhead systems are shipping?
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Old 01-13-2012 | 11:58 AM
  #3537  
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Originally Posted by idrummerboy13
that is weird, check the switch, and check your solder joints, they may look fine but try re tinning them. Sensor cable, water or fluid in case?
No water or fluid in the case. Internals are all coated on assembly. I removed all the wires and re-soldered. Nothing. How or what would I be looking for when checking the power switch? No visible damage to wires or the case. Would a bad sensor cable keep the ESC from turning on?
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Old 01-13-2012 | 12:59 PM
  #3538  
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
No water or fluid in the case. Internals are all coated on assembly. I removed all the wires and re-soldered. Nothing. How or what would I be looking for when checking the power switch? No visible damage to wires or the case. Would a bad sensor cable keep the ESC from turning on?
Would still power on, but would not beep or move.

Receiver plugged in correctly?

You can try the Viper Customer Support also.
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Old 01-13-2012 | 02:09 PM
  #3539  
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I sent in a tech question.

Receiver wouldn't have anything to do with the ESC turning on. It should still power up.
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Old 01-13-2012 | 03:10 PM
  #3540  
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Whats a good starting point for a 17.5 as far as accel boost and top speed timing?... Thanks guys
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