Viper RC -
#3017
Tech Regular
iTrader: (36)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 273
From: Littleton
Nikkos you look like the person to ask. I just set up my new vtx and all led's show it is functioning correctly. It shows it's binded correctly responding F, R, N all correct. Acknowledged profile. Even used programmer to tweak it, but I have no power to the wheels! Steering there and all wires are done perfectly. I had the wires sodered by a shop because I wanted it to look as nice as everything else I wired so well. Please help troubleshoot. It's very upsetting that an esc that seemed this easy to use is not functioning.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#3018
Hey Nikos,
On my SC-R/13.5/Tekin RS setup: This weekend I'm going to try 26/78 with 30 degrees on the can and 25 degrees in the ESC. The ramp I have been using is 5400-20000. I like the speed this gives me over 24/78. Hopefully the lower timing will keep the temps in check.
On my SC-R/13.5/Tekin RS setup: This weekend I'm going to try 26/78 with 30 degrees on the can and 25 degrees in the ESC. The ramp I have been using is 5400-20000. I like the speed this gives me over 24/78. Hopefully the lower timing will keep the temps in check.
One thing to note, is that on a 2s lipo (max Voltage is 8.4v), you might not be reaching 20,000RPM. That being said, with my understanding of the Tekin, is that if you have 25 degrees of timing, but the motor is only reaching 17,500 RPM, that you are not getting all of your timing you have programmed in. Also, the "Turbo" function may not be working correctly with the top RPM set higher than a number higher than the motor can achieve.
I ran a RS in the past and had my best results on off-road running top RPM in the 13-14,000 RPM range.
On the Tekin site, they have a setup sheet that Kevin Gahan wrote, which is for a Losi 22 Buggy, but you could reference his timing and gearing information. Kevin is the Losi Race Team manager, so I would think it is pretty legit. FYI - a TLR 22 with a 76 spur will have nearly the same roll-out as a XXX-SCT or the SC-R with a 84 or 86 Spur. He is in Full Sensored mode, 3,500 start RPM, 18,000 finish RPM, with 50 Boost.
#3019
Nikkos you look like the person to ask. I just set up my new vtx and all led's show it is functioning correctly. It shows it's binded correctly responding F, R, N all correct. Acknowledged profile. Even used programmer to tweak it, but I have no power to the wheels! Steering there and all wires are done perfectly. I had the wires sodered by a shop because I wanted it to look as nice as everything else I wired so well. Please help troubleshoot. It's very upsetting that an esc that seemed this easy to use is not functioning.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#3020
Wow- I take the night off and everyone asks me questions -- sorry guys.
Jay it does sound like a sensor wire or a cold solder joint on one of the motor wires - change the sensor wire first. No matter what brushless speed control I have used current or past - its almost always the quickest fix.
Chris - I think Dave has you on the track you need. I actually never used a Tekin RS speedo, so I really can't reference how their functions work.
For me I normally try to start with something recommended (the set up sheet that was mentioned) and experiment a little from there. Everyone likes things a little different - that is what makes this hobby so unique.
slasn - I have not used that Tekin motor before - if it is a sensored motor it should work with the VTX10r. Gearing, setup and drive time will determine if there are heat issues or not. Remember if you have a set up that only reaches 150º after 6-7 minutes, it will be higher if you try and run for 10-12 minutes.
Jay it does sound like a sensor wire or a cold solder joint on one of the motor wires - change the sensor wire first. No matter what brushless speed control I have used current or past - its almost always the quickest fix.
Chris - I think Dave has you on the track you need. I actually never used a Tekin RS speedo, so I really can't reference how their functions work.
For me I normally try to start with something recommended (the set up sheet that was mentioned) and experiment a little from there. Everyone likes things a little different - that is what makes this hobby so unique.
slasn - I have not used that Tekin motor before - if it is a sensored motor it should work with the VTX10r. Gearing, setup and drive time will determine if there are heat issues or not. Remember if you have a set up that only reaches 150º after 6-7 minutes, it will be higher if you try and run for 10-12 minutes.
#3021
Nikkos and the FatKid THANK YOU! I didn't realize the sensor wire had to be used. New to this set up, but that was it. It's all programmed and smoooooooth in My dex410v3 that's already half tresrey. Can't wait for new track to open in two weeks.
#3024
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 947
From: Burlington, Ont. Canada
Hi guys,
I just got in from running my RB5 at the local indoor carpet offroad track. I'm very happy with it except for one thing.
I seem to be lacking low end grunt. It is VERY smooth in the corners ect, but that might also be part of teh problem. As much as I love the smoothness, I have little low end torque. The current layout has a long double after a 180* turn. If I don't come off the corner perfect and get a run at it, I can't clear it. Same with the table top / single. All the other guys running 13.5 can clear both easy.
Here is the set up that I left the track with. The best I could get it.
RB5 ( not sp or sp2 )
78T Spur
26T pinion
Brake
brk strength - 100%
brk PMW freq -4000Hz
brk curve - Linear
Drag Brake
Neutral Brk - 20%
Dynamic brk
Trigger RPM - 11000RPM
Max brk strength - 5%
Dynamic curve - Linear
Throttle
Thr PMW freq - 6400Hz
Thr punch - 100%
Thr curve - Linear
DeadBand - Narrow
Motor Power
Accel Boost
Start RPM - 3000PRM
Finish RPM - 14000RPM
Max adv timing - 30*
Top Speed Timing
Slew Rate - 20*/1000RPM
Max adv timing - 20*
MISC
Run Mode - Race Mod
Hole Shot Launch - Disabled
SBEC voltage - 5.5v
Forward power - 100%
Turbo timer - 10min
Batt cut off - 6.4v
Motor temp cut off - 190*F
ESC temp cut off - 220*F
I think that's it. Here is a quick vid of the current layout so you can see the jumps I'm having trouble with. The two smaller jumps after the wall turn have been taken out and the two larger ones have been spaced out. this is one of the problem areas I mentioned earlier. The other is the jump in front of the drivers stand. I can't clear the whole thing like you see the guys in the vid doing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kIqY...ature=youtu.be
Thanks a ton guys.
I just got in from running my RB5 at the local indoor carpet offroad track. I'm very happy with it except for one thing.
I seem to be lacking low end grunt. It is VERY smooth in the corners ect, but that might also be part of teh problem. As much as I love the smoothness, I have little low end torque. The current layout has a long double after a 180* turn. If I don't come off the corner perfect and get a run at it, I can't clear it. Same with the table top / single. All the other guys running 13.5 can clear both easy.
Here is the set up that I left the track with. The best I could get it.
RB5 ( not sp or sp2 )
78T Spur
26T pinion
Brake
brk strength - 100%
brk PMW freq -4000Hz
brk curve - Linear
Drag Brake
Neutral Brk - 20%
Dynamic brk
Trigger RPM - 11000RPM
Max brk strength - 5%
Dynamic curve - Linear
Throttle
Thr PMW freq - 6400Hz
Thr punch - 100%
Thr curve - Linear
DeadBand - Narrow
Motor Power
Accel Boost
Start RPM - 3000PRM
Finish RPM - 14000RPM
Max adv timing - 30*
Top Speed Timing
Slew Rate - 20*/1000RPM
Max adv timing - 20*
MISC
Run Mode - Race Mod
Hole Shot Launch - Disabled
SBEC voltage - 5.5v
Forward power - 100%
Turbo timer - 10min
Batt cut off - 6.4v
Motor temp cut off - 190*F
ESC temp cut off - 220*F
I think that's it. Here is a quick vid of the current layout so you can see the jumps I'm having trouble with. The two smaller jumps after the wall turn have been taken out and the two larger ones have been spaced out. this is one of the problem areas I mentioned earlier. The other is the jump in front of the drivers stand. I can't clear the whole thing like you see the guys in the vid doing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kIqY...ature=youtu.be
Thanks a ton guys.
#3025
Jamie - you may be over geared slightly. Try 24 pinion and if that doesn't help increase the timing to 35 and the boost to 25
I also noticed your drag brake is very high and that may affect how much momentum the car carries when letting off the throttle as you round the corner
I also noticed your drag brake is very high and that may affect how much momentum the car carries when letting off the throttle as you round the corner
#3026
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 947
From: Burlington, Ont. Canada
Hey Bobby,
How's things?
I tried a few different pinions last night 21T 23T then the 26T. I found the 26T provided the best torque.
Top end to great, but I would like it to kick in sooner on the straight.
Thanks for the reply, I hope we get the chance to battle it out soon.
How's things?
I tried a few different pinions last night 21T 23T then the 26T. I found the 26T provided the best torque.
Top end to great, but I would like it to kick in sooner on the straight.
Thanks for the reply, I hope we get the chance to battle it out soon.
#3027
Hey guys a couple of days ago i asked for setup help about how to get rid of some of teh smootheness out of the speedo and what i ended up trying was turning th dead band off that made a world of difference in the car, the power was much more on demand. The tight high grip layout i run demands a lot of bottom end and amost no top, now i am still in need of a little more bottom should i go with some accel boost? I am running an 8.5 with the stock timing on the can, should i increase can timimng?
#3028
Hey guys a couple of days ago i asked for setup help about how to get rid of some of teh smootheness out of the speedo and what i ended up trying was turning th dead band off that made a world of difference in the car, the power was much more on demand. The tight high grip layout i run demands a lot of bottom end and amost no top, now i am still in need of a little more bottom should i go with some accel boost? I am running an 8.5 with the stock timing on the can, should i increase can timimng?
#3029
Hi guys,
I just got in from running my RB5 at the local indoor carpet offroad track. I'm very happy with it except for one thing.
I seem to be lacking low end grunt. It is VERY smooth in the corners ect, but that might also be part of teh problem. As much as I love the smoothness, I have little low end torque. The current layout has a long double after a 180* turn. If I don't come off the corner perfect and get a run at it, I can't clear it. Same with the table top / single. All the other guys running 13.5 can clear both easy.
Here is the set up that I left the track with. The best I could get it.
RB5 ( not sp or sp2 )
78T Spur
26T pinion
Brake
brk strength - 100%
brk PMW freq -4000Hz
brk curve - Linear
Drag Brake
Neutral Brk - 20%
Dynamic brk
Trigger RPM - 11000RPM
Max brk strength - 5%
Dynamic curve - Linear
Throttle
Thr PMW freq - 6400Hz
Thr punch - 100%
Thr curve - Linear
DeadBand - Narrow
Motor Power
Accel Boost
Start RPM - 3000PRM
Finish RPM - 14000RPM
Max adv timing - 30*
Top Speed Timing
Slew Rate - 20*/1000RPM
Max adv timing - 20*
MISC
Run Mode - Race Mod
Hole Shot Launch - Disabled
SBEC voltage - 5.5v
Forward power - 100%
Turbo timer - 10min
Batt cut off - 6.4v
Motor temp cut off - 190*F
ESC temp cut off - 220*F
I think that's it. Here is a quick vid of the current layout so you can see the jumps I'm having trouble with. The two smaller jumps after the wall turn have been taken out and the two larger ones have been spaced out. this is one of the problem areas I mentioned earlier. The other is the jump in front of the drivers stand. I can't clear the whole thing like you see the guys in the vid doing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kIqY...ature=youtu.be
Thanks a ton guys.
I just got in from running my RB5 at the local indoor carpet offroad track. I'm very happy with it except for one thing.
I seem to be lacking low end grunt. It is VERY smooth in the corners ect, but that might also be part of teh problem. As much as I love the smoothness, I have little low end torque. The current layout has a long double after a 180* turn. If I don't come off the corner perfect and get a run at it, I can't clear it. Same with the table top / single. All the other guys running 13.5 can clear both easy.
Here is the set up that I left the track with. The best I could get it.
RB5 ( not sp or sp2 )
78T Spur
26T pinion
Brake
brk strength - 100%
brk PMW freq -4000Hz
brk curve - Linear
Drag Brake
Neutral Brk - 20%
Dynamic brk
Trigger RPM - 11000RPM
Max brk strength - 5%
Dynamic curve - Linear
Throttle
Thr PMW freq - 6400Hz
Thr punch - 100%
Thr curve - Linear
DeadBand - Narrow
Motor Power
Accel Boost
Start RPM - 3000PRM
Finish RPM - 14000RPM
Max adv timing - 30*
Top Speed Timing
Slew Rate - 20*/1000RPM
Max adv timing - 20*
MISC
Run Mode - Race Mod
Hole Shot Launch - Disabled
SBEC voltage - 5.5v
Forward power - 100%
Turbo timer - 10min
Batt cut off - 6.4v
Motor temp cut off - 190*F
ESC temp cut off - 220*F
I think that's it. Here is a quick vid of the current layout so you can see the jumps I'm having trouble with. The two smaller jumps after the wall turn have been taken out and the two larger ones have been spaced out. this is one of the problem areas I mentioned earlier. The other is the jump in front of the drivers stand. I can't clear the whole thing like you see the guys in the vid doing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kIqY...ature=youtu.be
Thanks a ton guys.
1 - Drop Throttle PMW Freq to 4000
2 - Drop T.S. Timing Slew Rate to 5-7/1000 RPM - You are asking the ESC to throw 20 degrees of timing over 1000, this is very, very aggressive and you might be making allot of heat in either the ESC or Motor for a short period of time. You may even want to just tune to 0 degree of TST for now and get the infield power working first
3 - Add 5 Degrees more accel timing
4 - Go to a 25T pinion with the above changes
What is your end-bell timing on the motor?
Carpet Off-Road can be a challange to get setup correctly. Make sure the slipper, diff, etc.... are not slipping. Also, in Carpet Off-Road you can have traction issues where the car can lack forward bite but not spin out. You could be smoking the tires and not knowing it.
#3030
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 947
From: Burlington, Ont. Canada
Try the following changes:
1 - Drop Throttle PMW Freq to 4000
2 - Drop T.S. Timing Slew Rate to 5-7/1000 RPM - You are asking the ESC to throw 20 degrees of timing over 1000, this is very, very aggressive and you might be making allot of heat in either the ESC or Motor for a short period of time. You may even want to just tune to 0 degree of TST for now and get the infield power working first
3 - Add 5 Degrees more accel timing
4 - Go to a 25T pinion with the above changes
What is your end-bell timing on the motor?
Carpet Off-Road can be a challange to get setup correctly. Make sure the slipper, diff, etc.... are not slipping. Also, in Carpet Off-Road you can have traction issues where the car can lack forward bite but not spin out. You could be smoking the tires and not knowing it.
1 - Drop Throttle PMW Freq to 4000
2 - Drop T.S. Timing Slew Rate to 5-7/1000 RPM - You are asking the ESC to throw 20 degrees of timing over 1000, this is very, very aggressive and you might be making allot of heat in either the ESC or Motor for a short period of time. You may even want to just tune to 0 degree of TST for now and get the infield power working first
3 - Add 5 Degrees more accel timing
4 - Go to a 25T pinion with the above changes
What is your end-bell timing on the motor?
Carpet Off-Road can be a challange to get setup correctly. Make sure the slipper, diff, etc.... are not slipping. Also, in Carpet Off-Road you can have traction issues where the car can lack forward bite but not spin out. You could be smoking the tires and not knowing it.



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