vtx v port
 

Salad Fork there are no led's on!

Lance sounds like a failed VPort, head over to Viper's website - http://viper-rc.com/contact.php

Fill out the RMA form, send your VTX10 back to us so tech can take a look at it.

What do you guys recommend to set the lipo cut off at for 2S?

Thanks guys.

6.2v:nod:

Factory is set at 6.4v. Unless you find that you're hitting it during your race, why change it? You can go as low as 6v safely though.

See I told ya...lol

glad to see your liking it:nod:

-DC-

I'm guessing this is a viper motor. And I seen you said you fixed it by changing motors... if you have another viper motor you need to try and change the sensor board and see if that will fix it. I had a motor do that changed out the sensorboard and it was fixed and an VERY easy fix...

Thanks,
-DC-

Going as low as 6.0v is never a good idea because not all lipo are balanced equal and if it is set at 6.0v and 1 cell has 2.75v and the other has 3.25v then you would be in trouble.......I run mine at 6.6v and have never even hit the shutdown mark....and if I did and my batteries were perfectly balanced that would be 3.3v per cell and that is about as low as I want to go......hope this helps people!!!!:tire::tire:

Need some advice. Ran my vtx10r on a 4600 tekin pro4 tonight and it thermalled after 5 laps. Had the esc temp cutoff set to 220. Motor was only 128 but esc was hot. Do I need a fan on it? How high can I set the thermal cutoff on the esc before I get into meltdown? I had the esc set to zero timing.

Turn the throttle punch down to 80% or less. Set the ESC temp cutoff to 240.


At least your VTX10R will run your Pro4. Tried mine yesterday and when I give it full throttle, it goes a short distance and all throttle/brakes cut out until I let off and it slows down, then I can throttle again, till it cuts out. This is a brand new unit I just got back from Viper to replace my first one that quit working. Not real happy with Viper right now. I put my reliable RX8 esc in and ran fine the rest of the night.

If you have a battery coming that far out of balance in one cycle, voltage cut off is the least of your worries. You need to stop using that pack and dispose of it properly.

It's your ESC settings, not the reliability of the ESC. It's been tested with the red can 4 pole and works fine.

VTX10R-Profile#2

Brake strength 80%
Brake PWM freq 8000HZ
Brake curve linear
Neutral drag brake 10%
Throttle PWM freq 9600Hz
Throttle punch 15%-20%
Throttle curve linear
Deadband middle
no timing- default
no motor protection
esc protection 240 degrees

Cliff notes: Is it possible to buy just the windings or can (not sure how it's assembled) for a Viper VST 17.5?

So, on Friday I was practicing for the first time with my new buggy (running a 17.5) and on what was originally planned to be my last practice run (coming off ~130), my car got punted about ten feet at the end of a straight by an out-of-control 1/8th scale. After being flipped back over, I ran briefly (30-40 more feet) with the car barely able to move before the throttle simply cut out. When I got to it, the car was definitely not smelling good, like burned windings. It was pretty warm, too (~165).

Due to how tight and rough the wheels felt, combined with the smell, I thought the motor was toast. However, in the pits I found that the motor/pinion had slid forward until it was jammed tight into the spur gear and could barely rotate.

After that, I slid it back and let it cool, then tried to get it to move, and it did. It still smelled like burnt windings, but I didn't have a spare motor. So I then did another practice run, assuming it'd either stutter or run slow, but it seemed alright, aside from the strong smell it constantly let out and the increase of about 25-30 degrees during a run (and unusually high power consumption).

I didn't have a lot of hope for the race the next day, so I just ran it as is to avoid removing the motor from my SC to swap into it. Surprisingly, in spite of the intense smell every time I got near and 160-ish end temperatures, it ran fine, and I did as well as I normally would have.

There's definitely something wrong with it, based on the smell, but I haven't taken it all apart yet to find exactly what it is (no chance yet). I also only see rotors, sensor units, solder tabs, and end caps available as replacement parts. Can I just replace the can and/or windings, or am I looking at buying another motor?

Thanks!

Put the Viper back in and put in your settings, and it STILL cuts out. I kept the trigger at full and looked at the LEDs on the switch to see if any error codes were blinking. The LEDS showed:
P Solid
S Solid
F solid red (for full throttle)
N off
R off

Wild guess, but it seems like the Viper doesn't like 4 pole motors at full throttle. Its like it can't understand the doubled sensor pulses per phase per revolution, compared to a 2 pole motor. Either that or it needs more capacitors on the battery to handle the higher amp draw of the Pro4 over other 2 pole 550 motors.

Go to amain hobbies they offer replacement parts for viper motors