Guy, sorry, I can't make it to Island tonight, it floods bad where I live and with the rain we are supposed to get tonight I am scared I might not get home. :cry:

Going to try and schedule work so I can be out there Friday.

Only try a little timing at a time on the motor, you will get a little more rpm, but you don't want to push it.

ah its ok, ill c ya soon. And alright ill push it up 5 degrees at a time. But the stock 17.5 profile is great for ir.

trying to get me a viper system for b44.1, for now im running 10.5 orion and sp esc:rolleyes: doh it just works for now, not the same tho:cry:

I don't understand why my vtx1 won't calibrate. I am using the same m11 with a 2.4 module that runs my vtx10. I haven't changed any settings in the radio. It is driving me crazy. If I here the beep beep beep with the green light blinking I'm gonna throw it across the garage. I had to put it away for the night. I will try again in the morning. When I hold the power button down for 3 sec the main red light comes on then it cycles through. Than the green light blinks and beeps. Any suggestions. Thanks

Tim

The newer ESC's are coming with A30 firmware, which has a different calibration procedure than those prior.

1 - Turn on radio, 0% expo, 100 EPA on Throttle and Brake
2 - Plug in a battery, make sure motor and sensor wire are connected
3 - Hold down the power button on the VTX until you hear the "chime" (you should get a solid F and R light)
4 - Pull trigger to full throttle and push the button on the VTX
5 - Full brake and push the button on the VTX
6 - Return to neutral and the VTX will finish the calibration
7 - Power down and turn back on and you should be good to go.

A30 Instructions can be found on the Viper Website here: http://www.viper-rc.com/pclink/updat...manual_A30.pdf

It's amazing how easy things r when u know what to do. Thanks for the help. Working like a charm.

calibration...
 

Flashed A30 firmware, went just fine.

For the new calibration process, the first steps go per the new instructions, but when it comes to full brake;

I hold full brake and press the red button once...

Nothing happens until I release full brake to neutral, then the cycle completes per the instructions. If I don't go to neutral, the process won't finish until I do.

Not sure if this is normal or not, but the new instructions never mention going back to neutral before getting the tone.

I'm concerned because I've very weak brakes.

OK, just saw step six from the post above, that is not in the instructions. I'll have to figure out why my brakes are weak.

Check your brake PWM If it's set to high your brakes will be soft. A30 goes down to 600hz now which will lock your brakes beyond belief. Make sure your EPA on your radio were set to 100 on throttle and brake when you did the calibration

Indeed...

I made the adjustment from 4000hz to 1000hz to get a feel for the change and found what I was looking for.

Thanks for confirming.

no brakes
 

I have little brakes on a sp 17.5 v3 motor no boost. I calibrated my radio 4pk to recommend settings. I have followed the above information. Using the progauge my ppm 1970us brake and 1070us throttle. How do I change these values? What is a starting point to get some brakes? do I lower the brake value to 1000. I am using software a30 option 4 no boost offroad.

Thanks

The PPM values is the signal that the receiver/radio is transmitting to the ESC.

Verify that you are at 100% End Point on the throttle and brake on your radio, with 0% Expo, then re-calibrate the speed control.

Verify you have a solid light when you are at full brake. If all of that is correct, check to make sure the ESC is at 100% brake if you need more. I only run about 60% in 17.5 in my TLR 22 & 4pk Futaba

Hey zleader.

Also check the Progauge setting for your brakes PWM. If it is set high the brakes will be soft. Try 3000 and if you need more brakes then keep dropping the value

I will be at the track tonight. We can adjust it and test until you are where you like it

Bob

hi all i have just done a firm ware upgrade to A30 on both my ESC's vtx10,vtx10r
i am not sure how to set up the smart brakes can some one help me out please i am running 17.5 motors in the buggies
cheers

Smart Brake
 

Smart Brake is like a "2-Stage" Drag Brake. It essentially will give you a "High-speed" drag brake and a "normal" drag brake, and can really help with consistency at the end of a strait-away, especially with a tight sweeping corner at the end of it.

You have basically 2 settings that you can use with Smart Brake:

Max Brake Strength - This is the amount of brake you want to apply at "high-speed"

Trigger RPM - This is the rpm in which the VTX will apply the Max Brake Strength setting.

Lets say we use the following setup.

10.5 Motor
Max Brake Strength (Smart Brake) - 80%
Trigger RPM 16,000RPM
Drag Brake - 25%

With the above settings, you will go down the strait-away and let off to neutral and the VTX will apply 80% brake on it's own until the motor deaccelerates down to the 16,000RPM setting. When the motor us under the trigger RPM setting, the VTX will proportionally decrease the brake down to the regular "Drag Brake" setting.

IMO the Smart Brake system could be quite beneficial in the on-road world, where you have very high-speed, sweeping turns at the end of the straits. It will take some confidince to trust the esc, because in order to engage it, you need to go to Neutral at the exact point you are used to grabbing a bunch of brake. It will take some getting used to.

In off-road, it may or may not be able to be used, as track layouts tend to be more "point and shoot" at the end of your high-speed sections, or have technical sections (jumps). Also, with big jumps that require allot of throttle to get over them, one would have to be careful when jumping to NOT go to neutral as you will engage the 70 or 80% of brake that you have set in the Max Brake Strength. It has been common for people to use Drag Brake to adjust "attitude" when jumping, so I can see it being very important to be very consistent when jumping using the Smart Brake.

Now you can use just Drag Brake by setting the Brake Strength for the Smart Brake to 0%, and you will have traditional Drag Brake.

You can also use just the Smart Brake by setting the Drag Brake setting to 0%.

All of the settings will be very track specific (the settings will change from layout to layout, and as the day changes with varying traction levels), so this is something that will take some getting used to, to learn how the settings will work on the track. But there have been drivers in Asia running on-road who have managed to better their lap times by up to .4 sec just by using the Smart Brake.

pretty cool tunable..PWM
 

Pretty awesome tunable.

With most speed controls it's difficult to get brakes that stop you as you like, but don't send you into a skid at the end of a straight with a 180 turn.

Until this parameter was pointed out, I thought something was broke as I had not heard of this value - works great once you understand it.

As others are saying, you must calibrate the radio properly first or nothing else matters.

Small question...

My Spektrum DX3S has throttle and brake that goes to 150%. Is that what I should be using during calibration or 100%?

100%

I made the mistake of having the epa cranked up and fullspeed was around half throttle. (: