just tried a different battery no difference ,the heat builds up in the esc only when I use throttle if I just leave on with out using throttle the esc stays cool

send it back to were you bought it from to be checked out and warranty

I had a similar 'ultra hot' problem with a faulty sensor board/sensor wire (Novak motor) before. Try to remove the sensor wire and run the motor in sensorless mode first to see if you still have this heat issue.

Its worth a try.

the catman, are you using corally plugs, if so check to see if they are a tight fit, if they are loose a bit arching will occur and generate heat causing the solder to melt.

Cobra
ygpm

Thanks allready

Thanks will give the supplier a call tonight

Hi Guys,

I am going to run stock class 11.5t, so which software to download? 518 or 528 and where to download?

Thanks

Hobbywing 518, usb link

I had a problem last year with a sensor lead having 2 wires swapped around on one of the plugs. it caused the motor to get very hot and also it wouldnt run from standstill only when turned. This has made me get into the habit to always check the sensor leads.

moved

Do these motor mentioned also work with the motor overheat protections build in the ESC?

Or does that only work with the Hobbywing motors?

in need of oomph
 

help me

I set my speedo up, and found that it lacks low down and mid range punch. I have the 518 software on my xerun 120a and am running 13.5 my ration if 6.1 - 6.3. I am running it indoors, and need the profile for a 30 metre long straight. The top end seems reasonable, but i am being outgunned in low to mid.

can someone be kind enough to post their profile please?

I run on a track with similar length straight and most guys are running 7 and above fdr and have too much punch using 13.5t.

Advise
 

My son is currently looking at jumping to 17.5 as you seem to run a competent service backup can u suggest the best gear to do the job
all the best
ADAD

Drop a few teeth of pinion to get to FDR ~ 7 to get some punch.