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NEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE
1 Attachment(s)
Hi guys the new hobbywing stock supercharge software is now available for download .
these are the benefits .unitil its loaded on the hobbywing site you can send me an email and ill email you the software back . thank you for your time regards Angelo |
Please check your PM
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Please check your PM. :D
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Hello, Cobraracing
You are so quick to put the news on the forum, thanks for your help. It is super slow for us to browse RCTECH forum from China, so please help us to answer some techinical questions from customers. :D |
Powered by 2s lipo, a brushless motor runs at 120000 RPM. Can you believe it is only a normal 11.5T stock motor?
Normally, it should runs at 26000RPM. 120000 RPM is really incredible! But we are not making a joke. Hobbywing just released a Beta version firmware for 1/10 on-road stock applications. It is an innovation for Stock technology! If you have Hobbywing XERUN-120A (V2.0) or XERUN-60A (V2.0) ESC, and a LCD program box, you can download the new firmware freely at the following hyperlinks. You needn't buy a new ESC at all. Just save your money! New Stock Firmware: http://www.hobbywing.com/upload/soft...eta_100429.rar The instrcutions of this new firmware: http://www.hobbywing.com/upload/manu...-Hobbywing.pdf Try it, and Trust it! (TNT ?! Yes!!! ) Let's enjoy the fastest speeeeeeeeed!!! |
I suppose this works on a Speed Passion ESC?
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Originally Posted by defcone
(Post 7335670)
I suppose this works on a Speed Passion ESC?
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Will it run on EZRun ESC 30A too?
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Originally Posted by CobraSVT
(Post 7335709)
Will it run on EZRun ESC 30A too?
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Originally Posted by defcone
(Post 7335670)
I suppose this works on a Speed Passion ESC?
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4 Attachment(s)
I just ran the 1.61 beta software...
Did not test it yet (actually I tested the "older" 100422 just yesterday on my bike with the Xerun 60A and Nosram 13.5T, see the HW Xerun thread). so, the 1.61 contains three sw's: V1.10 205 mod, V2.0 422 stock and V1.10 323a_m I installed the 422 stock to my 1/5 bike, and for the first time the "Apply" button is not greyed, and it didn't ask me to "upgrade software". I may have some time to test it later today. I took some screenshots... Also note that the LCD Program Box now says V1.05_100420 on the initial screen. |
HW motors can run at 120K rpm without grenading???:confused:
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Can anyone tell me if you can use the Speed passion LCD programming box to program the Xerun 120amp ESC?
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yes you can .same unit
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Originally Posted by defcone
(Post 7335670)
I suppose this works on a Speed Passion ESC?
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Originally Posted by dfiantii
(Post 7335708)
I suppose it can go either way since the XERUN guys put SP software on their ESC, but I am sure the SP guys will say stick to SP software on your esc.
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Originally Posted by hobbywing
(Post 7335661)
....
Try it, and Trust it! (TNT ?! Yes!!! ) Let's enjoy the fastest speeeeeeeeed!!!
Originally Posted by PaPeRo
(Post 7335772)
HW motors can run at 120K rpm without grenading???:confused:
We will see!!!! |
Originally Posted by steliosh
(Post 7335863)
Hmmm... coincidence?!!!!
We will see!!!! |
Originally Posted by steliosh
(Post 7335863)
Hmmm... coincidence?!!!!
We will see!!!! It it says 120 amp that is the peak the burst current is different all together . if you use 11.5T ,you can try this setting : 9=7 12=8 or 9 13=4 14=5 15=4 FDR : 6.4 if you use 10.5 ,you can try this setting: 9=6 12=7 or 8 13=4 14=5 15=4 FDR : 6.4 if your using 13.5T you can try this setting 9=8 12=8-9 13=4 14=5 15=4 just some setup ideas |
Can anyone tell me if you can use the Speed passion LCD programming box to program the Xerun 120amp ESC?
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Originally Posted by snowman_evil
(Post 7335888)
Can anyone tell me if you can use the Speed passion LCD programming box to program the Xerun 120amp ESC?
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Originally Posted by COBRARACING
(Post 7335859)
Its all Hobbywing software guys created by michael who is a real genious at the hobbywing tech support facility and factory in shenzhen. china
Originally Posted by COBRARACING
(Post 7335875)
Michael the software designer is 100% confident with the software and so am i .There are other things discussed but i just cannot say anythig for the time being but many things to come .
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Has anyone used the new software with a 17.5. I have been playing around with the SP version for a bit and am finding it hard to get working.
I've installed this new version and testing it on the bench its sounds dead with no apparent rip that everyone seems to be raving about :( I feel I have done some drastically wrong with the installation, any guidance would be greatly appreciated. |
Originally Posted by eceer
(Post 7336389)
Has anyone used the new software with a 17.5. I have been playing around with the SP version for a bit and am finding it hard to get working.
I've installed this new version and testing it on the bench its sounds dead with no apparent rip that everyone seems to be raving about :( I feel I have done some drastically wrong with the installation, any guidance would be greatly appreciated. |
Tried today the new FM 422 and I must congratulate for the excellent work done by Hobbywing now on par with Tekin both in speed and acceleration with optimum temperatures of the engine.
I have tested various motor and SS Novak Ballistic pro, pro-GM and 17.5 Feigao all with good results: excellent performances by everyone. We did a comparison test with a friend with Tekin and the benefits were actually identical. Consider that with 17.5 I was much faster than across the Track to another friend of mine with Speedpassion 2.1 (with standard FM) and 10.5. Thanks Hobbywing |
Originally Posted by COBRARACING
(Post 7335878)
Nothing lasts forever but if your stupid enough not to follow instructions you will kill anything no matter what .The problem in the past with alot of the Oem stuff was that the brand name would say its 120 amp but it can handle 200 amp .now that to me is false info and it is really stupid .follow instructions and nothing will go wrong nothing more said.
It it says 120 amp that is the peak the burst current is different all together . if you use 11.5T ,you can try this setting : 9=7 12=8 or 9 13=4 14=5 15=4 FDR : 6.4 if you use 10.5 ,you can try this setting: 9=6 12=7 or 8 13=4 14=5 15=4 FDR : 6.4 if your using 13.5T you can try this setting 9=8 12=8-9 13=4 14=5 15=4 just some setup ideas Anyway, back to business: I tested briefly the newest SW with mixed results. First of all, I set it up as per the HW PDF recommendations, that is: 9. Option 8 12. Option 7 13. Option 3 14. Option 5 15. Option 2 I didn't have your settings with me, at the track, so I went on by the pdf... I remind that I run a 1/5 motorcycle with Xerun 60A and Nosram 13.5T sensored, geared in the longish (as I already wrote in the other thread). Well... At first I did a medium throttle warm up lap, it all went fine, then on the main straight (60m plus...) I open the throttle fully and the bike wheelied to God and tumbled! It caught me by surprise, to be honest! I didn't expect it to do so with a "humble" 13.5T!!!! I turned around and started running the main straight up and down, doing wheelies! It was huge fun! Anyway, I remembered why I went to the track (there were no... spectators, as well!) so I started lapping... At one time, after about 3-4 minutes, I drove the bike to the pits, to do some tinkering with the suspension. I didn't shut off the Rx or Tx, just did my work for a few seconds, then sent it out in the track and it was going SLOWLY! Slowly as in 27T tin-can brushed! What the heck?! I returned the bike to the pits, lcd card in hand, I reran everything once, then did the Tx/Rx settings again and sent it out. It again had huge (wheelie!) power, so I started lapping normally... and carefully due to the newfound power! At around 3 minutes, it slowed down again. The battery I was using was a hardcase 3200/20C from rcmart. I removed the battery, let everything cool down for a few minutes, not that the motor was hot to touch, but anyway, I had to make sure everthing on the chassis was still tightly bolted and visually intact... So, new battery installed, a Turnigy 3300/30C, the bike is going fast for three minutes, then it slows again. Turn it off, rerun the settings with lcd card, rerun the Tx/Rx settings, send it out, it is fast again! I did it three times with this battery, with capacity to spare... What gives here?!!! I have to say, I installed the FW from my computer at home, twice, as usual with the latest FW's just in case, and had set the battery cut off at 3.0V. I never really ran out of battery juice, or had any "thermal" issued with either the ESC or the motor. They were both warm, but easy to touch, and are both in the airflow, plus the ESC fan is always working. Any ideas, anyone?!!! |
Could it be esc overheat protection?... Try reducing timing/ratio or even a more relaxed driving (riding) style and see if the drop in performance happens later...
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Originally Posted by steliosh
(Post 7337495)
You don't need to flame me, it was a only a joke. A coincidence really... HW said "TNT" and then the "grenading" comment, it was really something so appropriately comic! I have PAID for my equipment, so I'm allowed to point to a good joke, when I see one!
Anyway, back to business: I tested briefly the newest SW with mixed results. First of all, I set it up as per the HW PDF recommendations, that is: 9. Option 8 12. Option 7 13. Option 3 14. Option 5 15. Option 2 I didn't have your settings with me, at the track, so I went on by the pdf... I remind that I run a 1/5 motorcycle with Xerun 60A and Nosram 13.5T sensored, geared in the longish (as I already wrote in the other thread). Well... At first I did a medium throttle warm up lap, it all went fine, then on the main straight (60m plus...) I open the throttle fully and the bike wheelied to God and tumbled! It caught me by surprise, to be honest! I didn't expect it to do so with a "humble" 13.5T!!!! I turned around and started running the main straight up and down, doing wheelies! It was huge fun! Anyway, I remembered why I went to the track (there were no... spectators, as well!) so I started lapping... At one time, after about 3-4 minutes, I drove the bike to the pits, to do some tinkering with the suspension. I didn't shut off the Rx or Tx, just did my work for a few seconds, then sent it out in the track and it was going SLOWLY! Slowly as in 27T tin-can brushed! What the heck?! I returned the bike to the pits, lcd card in hand, I reran everything once, then did the Tx/Rx settings again and sent it out. It again had huge (wheelie!) power, so I started lapping normally... and carefully due to the newfound power! At around 3 minutes, it slowed down again. The battery I was using was a hardcase 3200/20C from rcmart. I removed the battery, let everything cool down for a few minutes, not that the motor was hot to touch, but anyway, I had to make sure everthing on the chassis was still tightly bolted and visually intact... So, new battery installed, a Turnigy 3300/30C, the bike is going fast for three minutes, then it slows again. Turn it off, rerun the settings with lcd card, rerun the Tx/Rx settings, send it out, it is fast again! I did it three times with this battery, with capacity to spare... What gives here?!!! I have to say, I installed the FW from my computer at home, twice, as usual with the latest FW's just in case, and had set the battery cut off at 3.0V. I never really ran out of battery juice, or had any "thermal" issued with either the ESC or the motor. They were both warm, but easy to touch, and are both in the airflow, plus the ESC fan is always working. Any ideas, anyone?!!! Check it and set to 3v or 3.2v. Also using a battery around 3000mah is very likely not going to last longer with the supercharge feature. We are close to cut off using 5000mah batteries in a 5 min race. The new software uses a lot more mah compared to the old pre supercharge versions. Only other possibility is temp cut off which you can disable and try but do check that esc is not getting hot. |
quick question regarding settings 09, 12 and 15
09 is the internal timing given to the motor pre-charge and throughout the charge. then 12 and 15 work together in a way such that: if 12 is set to option 8 (7 degrees) and 15 is set to 2 (300rpm/degree). then: 1 degree is added per 300RPM until 7 degrees has been added, which is when the supercharger stops dynamic advancing and continues normal standard acceleration. this timing is ontop of setting 9 (so after setting 12 is added, you are actually running the constant advance of 12 + 15 until you come off throttle?) is this correct? |
With this software the motor sound is incredible than the 110 soft! great job Hobbywing ;) congratulation!
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Originally Posted by razzor
(Post 7337569)
Most likely problem is the esc is activating the lipo voltage cut off.
Check it and set to 3v or 3.2v. Also using a battery around 3000mah is very likely not going to last longer with the supercharge feature. We are close to cut off using 5000mah batteries in a 5 min race. The new software uses a lot more mah compared to the old pre supercharge versions. Only other possibility is temp cut off which you can disable and try but do check that esc is not getting hot. The problem with the "small" batteries, is that the bike fairing is too narrow in the bottom to accommodate any bigger mah batteries! So... only 3200/3300s can be used effectively! I even tried "naked" 4000mah cells but they are too wide to fit, even though they are quite slim. However, after the 3-minute mark that the "cutoff" happened, the batteries both ran another or two sessions of 3 minutes. The 3300 came on the cutoff, after about 10 minutes, which is fair. (The bike races will be 7 minutes). Also, when testing the previous SC it would not behave similarly and allowed a 10 or more minute runtime... Of course I can give it a bit lower gearing, since the top speed is more than enough, really and the exit-from-slow-corners punch could be a bit more... gearing-dependend, the old fashion way! But this will have to wait till tomorrow and the weekend! |
Also great to have the lcd programmer working with the 3 modes/profiles available again so you can make quick back to back comparisons :)
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Excuse me guys,but does it work also on Ezrun 35A V2 sensorless esc?
Tnx! |
Originally Posted by bazspencer
(Post 7337970)
Excuse me guys,but does it work also on Ezrun 35A V2 sensorless esc?
Tnx! |
Originally Posted by steliosh
(Post 7337894)
I have the cutoff set at 3.2V always, in all my ESC's.
The problem with the "small" batteries, is that the bike fairing is too narrow in the bottom to accommodate any bigger mah batteries! So... only 3200/3300s can be used effectively! I even tried "naked" 4000mah cells but they are too wide to fit, even though they are quite slim. However, after the 3-minute mark that the "cutoff" happened, the batteries both ran another or two sessions of 3 minutes. The 3300 came on the cutoff, after about 10 minutes, which is fair. (The bike races will be 7 minutes). Also, when testing the previous SC it would not behave similarly and allowed a 10 or more minute runtime... Of course I can give it a bit lower gearing, since the top speed is more than enough, really and the exit-from-slow-corners punch could be a bit more... gearing-dependend, the old fashion way! But this will have to wait till tomorrow and the weekend! Try a less aggressive setup on the supercharge settings and/or shorten gearing a bit more. Note though undergearing can also overheat a esc and motor. Thinking about it you should deactivate supercharge and adjust settings for the bike to run good before activating supercharge. |
Originally Posted by steliosh
(Post 7337495)
You don't need to flame me, it was a only a joke. A coincidence really... HW said "TNT" and then the "grenading" comment, it was really something so appropriately comic! I have PAID for my equipment, so I'm allowed to point to a good joke, when I see one!
Anyway, back to business: I tested briefly the newest SW with mixed results. First of all, I set it up as per the HW PDF recommendations, that is: 9. Option 8 12. Option 7 13. Option 3 14. Option 5 15. Option 2 I didn't have your settings with me, at the track, so I went on by the pdf... I remind that I run a 1/5 motorcycle with Xerun 60A and Nosram 13.5T sensored, geared in the longish (as I already wrote in the other thread). Well... At first I did a medium throttle warm up lap, it all went fine, then on the main straight (60m plus...) I open the throttle fully and the bike wheelied to God and tumbled! It caught me by surprise, to be honest! I didn't expect it to do so with a "humble" 13.5T!!!! I turned around and started running the main straight up and down, doing wheelies! It was huge fun! Anyway, I remembered why I went to the track (there were no... spectators, as well!) so I started lapping... At one time, after about 3-4 minutes, I drove the bike to the pits, to do some tinkering with the suspension. I didn't shut off the Rx or Tx, just did my work for a few seconds, then sent it out in the track and it was going SLOWLY! Slowly as in 27T tin-can brushed! What the heck?! I returned the bike to the pits, lcd card in hand, I reran everything once, then did the Tx/Rx settings again and sent it out. It again had huge (wheelie!) power, so I started lapping normally... and carefully due to the newfound power! At around 3 minutes, it slowed down again. The battery I was using was a hardcase 3200/20C from rcmart. I removed the battery, let everything cool down for a few minutes, not that the motor was hot to touch, but anyway, I had to make sure everthing on the chassis was still tightly bolted and visually intact... So, new battery installed, a Turnigy 3300/30C, the bike is going fast for three minutes, then it slows again. Turn it off, rerun the settings with lcd card, rerun the Tx/Rx settings, send it out, it is fast again! I did it three times with this battery, with capacity to spare... What gives here?!!! I have to say, I installed the FW from my computer at home, twice, as usual with the latest FW's just in case, and had set the battery cut off at 3.0V. I never really ran out of battery juice, or had any "thermal" issued with either the ESC or the motor. They were both warm, but easy to touch, and are both in the airflow, plus the ESC fan is always working. Any ideas, anyone?!!! |
it seems we are the beta testers... let's hope HW listens!
I already said it earlier about my suspicion on my sensor cable... I have one on order from Nikos! |
Originally Posted by mlight13
(Post 7336828)
One common solution is to load the firmware twice, or load the new one, roll back to an old one, then load the new one again. This worked for me and a lot of other people. If you already did that, then I have no idea.
Even tried going 324 - 110 - 422 and still no luck :( I wonder if at some time during the beta software updates I have done something to the speedie? that may cause it not to work properly? |
Can the 422 beta stock supercharge firmware suitable for 8.5t? IF its possible, what is the reccomended setting for it?
Originally Posted by COBRARACING
(Post 7335878)
Nothing lasts forever but if your stupid enough not to follow instructions you will kill anything no matter what .The problem in the past with alot of the Oem stuff was that the brand name would say its 120 amp but it can handle 200 amp .now that to me is false info and it is really stupid .follow instructions and nothing will go wrong nothing more said.
It it says 120 amp that is the peak the burst current is different all together . if you use 11.5T ,you can try this setting : 9=7 12=8 or 9 13=4 14=5 15=4 FDR : 6.4 if you use 10.5 ,you can try this setting: 9=6 12=7 or 8 13=4 14=5 15=4 FDR : 6.4 if your using 13.5T you can try this setting 9=8 12=8-9 13=4 14=5 15=4 just some setup ideas |
422.. one word.. AWESOME! Compared it to 231,324 and 410 of SP firmware and on 11.5t, i tried it on all basic settings of the original 422 with fdr of 8.3 and the power was capable to keep up with firmware mod 323t on 4.0t.
Is 422 capable to run on 8.5t? and if so what is the reccomended settings? |
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