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Old 07-20-2005, 09:48 AM   #526
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check your fuel lines for a pinhole leak. and double check you bajo fitting (fuel inlet) on the carb to make sure its tight, also make sure your head bolts are tight and the glowplug is in all the way.
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Old 07-20-2005, 08:45 PM   #527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Civic_RS
Realized that my TZ 5 port crankcase is sock in fuel after running a full tank !! Used to run in O'donnell 25% and now change to Byron 25%. Can anyone help...could it be due to fuel or a crack on the crankcase ? Engine is a race old.

I've also silicon the carb but no difference...still leak.
Check if you have a torn manifold gasket.
If still cannot trace the leak, cleanup the engine, then run it on the starter box to see if you can detect where the leak is. Doubt it's from the carb coz carb would be having negative pressure when running. Air will leak into the carb but fuel will not come out.
Probable areas are front bearing, back plate, manifold.
Maybe also the engine head if it's not screwed tight to the crankcase, but engine won;t be running properly if that's the case...
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Old 07-20-2005, 10:08 PM   #528
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Dyno results from RC Driver Magazine



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Old 07-20-2005, 10:44 PM   #529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vader
Check if you have a torn manifold gasket.
If still cannot trace the leak, cleanup the engine, then run it on the starter box to see if you can detect where the leak is. Doubt it's from the carb coz carb would be having negative pressure when running. Air will leak into the carb but fuel will not come out.
Probable areas are front bearing, back plate, manifold.
Maybe also the engine head if it's not screwed tight to the crankcase, but engine won;t be running properly if that's the case...
u can have fule comming out of the carb, i had that problem on a Mugen MR12. It was comming out of the boot were the servo attaches. Needless to say that motor didnt work very well untill i got a new carb.
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Old 07-21-2005, 02:03 AM   #530
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oeh thnx for the reply with the dyno results.

looks good

anyone with the 3ports result here? so we compare them?

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Old 07-23-2005, 11:07 AM   #531
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Hey Guys.
Is it too much 130 C (266 F) For the Tz 3p? I run it on the rs 4 3 and the air filter blocks the frons side of engine so it can not get air for cooling. U think is that the problem?
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Old 07-23-2005, 12:35 PM   #532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontheroad
Hey Guys.
Is it too much 130 C (266 F) For the Tz 3p? I run it on the rs 4 3 and the air filter blocks the frons side of engine so it can not get air for cooling. U think is that the problem?
As long as your tune isn't lean and the plug looks good with no signs of a warped coil, then 266*F is ok. I would suggest you and all others here running the TZ only run the P7 plug unless the ambient temp is high then go to the P8.

Ron Atomic (Kyosho, OS) only uses the P8 unless the air drops really low. He is running the EB modified TZ 3port and it screams. You will be impressed at how easy the motor is to tune and how well it idles and runs with the P7/P8 plugs.
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Old 07-23-2005, 01:57 PM   #533
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Oh yeah everything is ok with the engine, it was novarossi plug, c7tc and i also used the p6. I think it went very hot with c7tc because the outside temperature was about 30 C. I have to use colder one. I love Os plugs but could not find it from rc-mushroom. Actually, no problem with speed, accelaration, sound and smoke only it is temperature,so if you say it is acceptable, it is ok. I love this engine it is really very easy to tune,very easy to start; it is a goth that insist to work and give power.
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Old 07-24-2005, 07:34 PM   #534
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We have tried using the nova plugs with Tz engines and they don't seem to fit that well, some minor leakage was seen.

Rgds
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Old 07-25-2005, 08:04 AM   #535
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Bundy man- I've noticed that with the OS plugs as well on some motors, but not on others. I think it's more the particular motor than all TZ's. However, I know how to fix the problem- You're most likely noticing the leakage after installing a new plug when the motor is cold. Since turbo plugs are taper seal, when the button gets hot the aluminum expands slightly making the plug not as tight as when it was hot. Just take your plug wrench and snug it a bit when the motor is hot. For future reference, if you ever try to take the plug out when the motor is cold and it seems to be too tight, just start the motor and warm it up a little or use your heat gun to warm the head and it will come right out.
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Old 07-25-2005, 08:44 AM   #536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BundyMan
We have tried using the nova plugs with Tz engines and they don't seem to fit that well, some minor leakage was seen.

Rgds
You know, this is like what Sony does with their digital cameras and camcorders: make the product where it is not compatible with any aftermarket accessories so that you have to buy our accessories instead.
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Old 07-25-2005, 04:20 PM   #537
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I'm thinking about replacing my TR's internals with the TZ's. I want to replace the piston and sleeve, crankshaft and the head. Can I order the internals from tower? Or where should I get them from.
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Old 07-25-2005, 07:22 PM   #538
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What were the dyno numbers for the 3prt TZ?
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Old 07-25-2005, 08:41 PM   #539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsxshogun
What were the dyno numbers for the 3prt TZ?
One of the magazines got 1.4 hp on the tz3p but that was without taking the .1mm gasget out of the head, i ran my TZ3p last weekend at my local track and i was very impressed, granded out track is tight so the high end of the motor didnt really get tested but i had just as much if not more power than the guys with the nova based motors. I was very impressed with mine, by far one of the best motors i have seen for the money.
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Old 07-25-2005, 09:26 PM   #540
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This crankshaft from M Speed would be a nice addition inside the crankcase

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