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Old 07-14-2005, 11:18 PM   #496
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The piston and sleeve 1. has to seat properly and 2. they have to heat cycle for proper break in... Follow the instructions as per the owners manual and you should have no problems... When I say heat cycle, you should run one full tank of fuel at a time and bring the car in and allow the motor to cool off completely... Don't allow the motor to cool with the piston at TDC either... You want to get some heat through the motor but not above 210* F. Some may say a few degrees hotter which is ok... 130-180* degrees is way to cold and can damage your motor as well... While breakin, don't allow the motor to shift into 2nd gear. Do this for 6-7 tanks. This will allow the metals to expand from the proper heat build up but also by allowing it to cool off between each tank of fuel, it will allow the metals to form a perfect pinch with the piston and sleeve... Some peeps get to much into a rush with there breakin and don't allow the motor to cool and they end up losing compression and the pinch with the piston and sleeve super fast... That's with any motor... Take your time with your breakin and do it right... One last thing, OS. also gives a 2 year warrenty with there motors... Sweet...

RC_Alan

Last edited by rc_alan; 07-15-2005 at 05:52 AM.
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Old 07-15-2005, 03:26 AM   #497
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Longevity

My motor has over 2 gallons through it now and it is still going great. I used a mixture of the cefx run in and the book run in method. I ran a full tank at WOT extra rich to get the seating of parts and lubrication going. After that it was at the track and getting leaner by the half tank after a cooling period. Motor still has pinch when warm which is the important part.

Loose carb

If you read the manual it tells you that the carb is not tight from the factory. Make sure you read the part in the instructions that say to only tighten the carb retaining nut 60 degrees after finger tight. There is an acrylic(?) type of collar that will crack and shatter if you overtighten the carb.

Pipes

I was wondering why people were saying there was a better pipe than the skyline V12 for this motor. Once I sat back and waited for the explanations to come through I read that they are not bothered by legal racing pipes requiring a 5.2mm or less stinger diameter. I personally think the V12 is a great match for this engine when you're interrested in sanctioned racing.

Anyhow, I'm still feeling the love for this engine!

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 07-15-2005, 08:13 AM   #498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_alan
The piston and sleeve 1. has to seat properly and 2. they have to heat cycle for proper break in... Follow the instructions as per the owners manual and you should have no problems... When I say heat cycle, you should run one full tank of fuel at a time and bring the car in and allow the motor to cool off completely... Don't allow the motor to cool with the piston at TDC either... You want to get some heat through the motor but not above 210* F. Some may say a few degrees hotter which is ok... 130-180* degrees is way to cold and can damage your motor as well... While breakin, don't allow the motor to shift into 2nd gear. Do this for 6-7 tanks. This will allow the metals to expand from the proper heat build up but also by allowing it to cool off between each tank of fuel, it will allow the metals to form a perfect pinch with the piston and sleeve... Some peeps get to much into a rush with there breakin and don't allow the motor to cool and they end up losing compression and the pinch with the piston and sleeve super fast... That's with any motor... Take your time with your breakin and do it right... One last thing, OS. also gives a 2 year warrenty with there motors... Sweet...

RC_Alan

Rc_Alan,

What do you think of heat cycling the motor with a heat gun durin break in periods? I just heard about it tho.
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Old 07-15-2005, 10:06 AM   #499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_alan
The piston and sleeve 1. has to seat properly and 2. they have to heat cycle for proper break in... Follow the instructions as per the owners manual and you should have no problems... When I say heat cycle, you should run one full tank of fuel at a time and bring the car in and allow the motor to cool off completely... Don't allow the motor to cool with the piston at TDC either... You want to get some heat through the motor but not above 210* F. Some may say a few degrees hotter which is ok... 130-180* degrees is way to cold and can damage your motor as well... While breakin, don't allow the motor to shift into 2nd gear. Do this for 6-7 tanks. This will allow the metals to expand from the proper heat build up but also by allowing it to cool off between each tank of fuel, it will allow the metals to form a perfect pinch with the piston and sleeve... Some peeps get to much into a rush with there breakin and don't allow the motor to cool and they end up losing compression and the pinch with the piston and sleeve super fast... That's with any motor... Take your time with your breakin and do it right... One last thing, OS. also gives a 2 year warrenty with there motors... Sweet...

RC_Alan
Everything sounds good EXCEPT the 2 year warrenty.........not on TZ series at least (I know they do for CVR and those little toy engines), if they do....I will NEVER think about any other engine beside OS...." *** Due to the High Performance of the TZ Series Engines , OS does NOT provide a warranty with this engine *** "
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Old 07-15-2005, 10:18 AM   #500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Well, hundreds may be an exaggeration, but if you have been racing since the mid 80s and have had more cars than you can count, there isn't anything odd about having run a lot of gas motors in.

I just found out that he had the motor imported from Hong Kong as soon as they came out (before they were in the US). It was a VERY early engine, and could be one of the sources for the inconsistencies.
I heard the exact same thing over in HK, they have no motor limit, so 5 port is STANDARD for them........but it is a 1 gallon wonder...P/S need to be replace after a gallon.........and somehow, they tried the 3 ports, ran just as fast, as good, but last a lot longer then 1 gallon...........

If I have to buy 1 TZ, I will stick with the 12TZ3....it is legal, it has all the good feedback....why try something else and challenge ourself..?
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Old 07-15-2005, 11:15 AM   #501
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I use the heat cycling method and it seems to work good.I like to heat my motors up first so it doesn't put so much strain on the con. rod and so it doesn't cause pre-mature wear on the piston and sleeve.
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Old 07-15-2005, 12:38 PM   #502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
Everything sounds good EXCEPT the 2 year warrenty.........not on TZ series at least (I know they do for CVR and those little toy engines), if they do....I will NEVER think about any other engine beside OS...." *** Due to the High Performance of the TZ Series Engines , OS does NOT provide a warranty with this engine *** "
The TZ does have a 2 year warrenty, i jsut got at TZ 3P last week and it says that the motor does come with a 2 year warrenty againt defects, so if u just run it to hot or dont break it in thats not covered, but factory defects are. From what i understand.
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Old 07-15-2005, 12:44 PM   #503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
Pipes

I was wondering why people were saying there was a better pipe than the skyline V12 for this motor. Once I sat back and waited for the explanations to come through I read that they are not bothered by legal racing pipes requiring a 5.2mm or less stinger diameter. I personally think the V12 is a great match for this engine when you're interrested in sanctioned racing.
LOL I too was wondering why people thought other pipes were better when all the fast guy run the VR12 Skyline pipe until a few posts later I see that they are comparing outlaw pipes with it. Skyline VR12 is the pipe Ron Atomic used for his TQ in Vegas with an OS TZ.
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Old 07-15-2005, 02:11 PM   #504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATXPro4
The TZ does have a 2 year warrenty, i jsut got at TZ 3P last week and it says that the motor does come with a 2 year warrenty againt defects, so if u just run it to hot or dont break it in thats not covered, but factory defects are. From what i understand.
Then what TOWER saying is not correct......they said there are no waranty on all TZ series...only the TZ units doesn't come with any waranty from OS.
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Old 07-15-2005, 06:21 PM   #505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
Then what TOWER saying is not correct......they said there are no waranty on all TZ series...only the TZ units doesn't come with any waranty from OS.
This what I have been told also. TZ series has no warranty.
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Old 07-15-2005, 06:25 PM   #506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
LOL I too was wondering why people thought other pipes were better when all the fast guy run the VR12 Skyline pipe until a few posts later I see that they are comparing outlaw pipes with it. Skyline VR12 is the pipe Ron Atomic used for his TQ in Vegas with an OS TZ.
How can you tell one pipe is better fit than the others? I have a TZ 5 ports. I tried both OS 1040 5mm and NovaRoss (9xxx don't remember the number exactly). They sounded differently, but, besides the sound, I "felt" that the OS pipe gave a stronger bottom end. The difference was not that obvious. I would like to try the Skyline VR12 pipe also. Any methods I can use to test the difference?? Thx.
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Old 07-15-2005, 06:37 PM   #507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverM3
How can you tell one pipe is better fit than the others? I have a TZ 5 ports. I tried both OS 1040 5mm and NovaRoss (9xxx don't remember the number exactly). They sounded differently, but, besides the sound, I "felt" that the OS pipe gave a stronger bottom end. The difference was not that obvious. I would like to try the Skyline VR12 pipe also. Any methods I can use to test the difference?? Thx.
I think people have dynoed them before but I just go with feel too. Try the Skyline pipe. Nearly everyone who tried it like it. The price is good too.
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Old 07-15-2005, 06:40 PM   #508
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Hey guys just got the new RCnitro magazine. They tested the oz TZ 3 port.

With 20% nitro , nova pipe , os p6 plug.

It got 1.4hp.

They said it was pretty good for how conservative it was run and said the compression felt soft and that it could make more power with the removal of a shim.

Then went into saying it did make the highest torque ever from a .12 and that the motor can keep 1.3hp for over 16,000rpm!

They said this is a great motor for tight tracks. This car will be up to power out of the corner much quicker than the higher revving exspensive powerplants. They also said the powerband is so linear its as close to an eletric motor as you can get.

All I can say is im sold on this motor for sure! This will be my next powerplant.

Ill post some more info later for you. Too bad they didnt run it a little harder though.
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Old 07-15-2005, 08:27 PM   #509
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The owner's manual says on pg 51. that OS backs the TZ-12 3P with a 2 year limited warranty... You can go to www.hobbyservices.com for more info. They also list a Daytime phone #, Fax # and address to Champaign IL. for warranty service... On tune pipes for this motor... Some will say Skyline and some will say something else... I only run legal motors and pipes... Run what makes you happy... Remember, not everyone is using the same fuel, nitro content, gearing, plug type, chassis and there are many other factors that come into play with engine tuning, speed and overall performance... I never said to not use one pipe over another... I found what worked best for me which was the Yokomo Mielke pipe, others have found that the Skyline works best for them and so on... You can't judge a pipes performances by it's looks... You have to try it and see for yourself... I remember a Team Driver from Mugen here in SoCal tried the Mielke pipe on his Mugen motor and was surprised by it's performance gain... So much so that word spread and everyone was buying one... The right tune pipe can make a world of difference with engine performance, just like a motor cycle's exhaust pipe plays a big part in it's performance... I just happen to have to many pipes lying around, so I tried them to see what worked best for me and my TZ... I know I'm going on with this... For what it's worth... Run what ever makes you happy... As long as you win the race and you have the fastest motor on the track... That's what counts the most... Ron Atomics TZ was crazy fast and I'm sure his made over 1.4hp's... I can run mine against Sirio's, Rody's ect. and have no problems against them myself... So there are many factors that comes into play...

RC_Alan
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:59 PM   #510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
I think people have dynoed them before but I just go with feel too. Try the Skyline pipe. Nearly everyone who tried it like it. The price is good too.
Is the pipe made in the states or taiwan?

Rgds
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