Solara,

Will you at Tinely this weekend? We were at AJ's last week that track is to bumpy but no one could keep up with me. The Racing should be ausome this Sunday.

I drive faster with a slower engine and I think my TZ has way to much rip. My car launches in second gear and in the corners it just pulls. But I think my Mugen is dialed and I got some good practice in also.

I hope I will be there.....but there are several things will hold me down...the rain, someone called Wife, or someone called daughter....or mother in law want to shop instead.....

Too early to tell.......but I would love to see your 12TZ in action compare to the top guns like Espo, Aaron, Nick....who are all serpent sponcered driver........

well, the first engine for sale in tower ARRIVED, rotary carb threaded shaft, still 250 and no pipe combo. too much!
i'll get it when it will be lower than 200. heck the tz 18 is 180, that would be a nice price or even lower.

hey guys

i attempte dto break in my tz today and damn it was a headache!

the piston kept getting stuck and my starter box was struggling to kick it over.

i finally got the temps up using a hairdryer to heat up the crank, this was the onely way to get the piston going around.

any tips you people can share with break in ?

thanks!

Well, you're on the right track... it's better to use a heat gun and get the block pretty warm. A hair dryer just won't get it warm enough. Also, if I remember correctly (someone jump in here if you have broken in an OS 12 more recently than I) you should have leaned the hi needle at leat 1/2 turn and the low needle a 1/4 turn before ever trying to start he motor. The stock settings are so rich you can't even keep the motor running. Then bench tune the motor making sure it stays below 200deg F at idle. The hi needle should be lean enough the motor doesn't try to die when you snap the throttle but rich enough it doesn't want to scream.

Make sure the piston isn't on TDC when you kill the motor before it cools off.

Now take it to the track and run it like you are racing but don't necc. try to run full on punched. Make 2-3 min runs to get the motor good and warm keeping an eye on plug temps. I wouldn't let the motor get over 230-240deg. The reason for 2-3 min runs is to heat cycle it so let it cool 10-15 mins between runs. After 4 or 5 heat cycles begin to tune the motor for full HP being conservative with your increments. It's much better to sneak up on the tune than miss it and overheat the motor.

DO NOT waste your time with all that 2 tanks at rich idle, 2 tanks at kinda rich idle crap. All it does is hurt the life of the motor and cause an incorrect piston/sleeve mating.

If the motor gets stuck on TDC on the starter box, just use a small flat blade screw driver on the flywheel to kick it past. You might also try hooking up your 12V charger to the battery in the starter box to give it an extra kick. An SLA battery normally has about 12.8V at full charge but if you hook up the charger you will be getting 13.5V (slow charger) to 14.5V (good charger) which will help. If you're using a doubble stick pack then make sure the packs are fully charged.

awesome reply thanks heaps!

The motors are quite tight, but if you read the manual that came with the motor you will see that that is how they are designed. Very tight at the last part of the piston travel. This expands with heat and works well, and then once cool it will be tight again.

The only thing I did differently to the instruction in the manual, is that I used the 'Josh Cyrul' method for the first tank. His method runs the first tank at wide open throttle as rich as possible. After that I went with the varied throttle under load without the engine being overly rich so it made good temperature in short bursts during the running in process.

Having a strong starter box is about the only thing that will help with turning it over when it's new. But once you've gone through a few tanks you'll be sorted. Using heat to help getting it fired initially isn't a bad idea so you were on the right track.

Even after 3/4 of a gallon through my motor it is still hard to get turning at the start of a race/test day when the motor is cold.

Cheers,

Mike.

i agree with you....high power = high wear. well, it is a must to check the conrod after a gallon of fuel... if you don't it might cost you an entire engine. i've learned that the hard way. i've broken the crankshaft of an rb rody engine just because i was trying to be stingy. in the end, it cost me more. well, at least i learned something

LOL. Yep, no ones fault but your own. I'll be checking my V12 Rody soon.

my last OS Tr turbo was my last OS...its RB from now on....I got almost 2 gallons from that OS.....no were near the wear from an RB.......OS should rename itself a "one gallon wonder"...

yeap...totally agree....we should check every part of the engine regularly...

LOL. I like the reliability, but I could never get as to why the 8th buggy engines and others never lasted so long while running in races. The only stories I hear of them lasting long are from those "wanna be pros" who do nothing but bashing.

engine compression is only a guideline to the "health" of your engine.

even if your engine has lost compression but it still able to hold its tune well and doesn't flame out, i think the engine is still good!


fyi - i have a V01b that was totally dedicated for racing only, and never used for bashing. after more than 10 races, it still has good compression and hold its tune. the only problem i've had with OS buggy engines is the premature failure of main bearings .. but if you know what to look out for, then .. you've got no worries!

I'm not talking about the # of races, I'm talking about the # of gallons with proper maintainance.

I'm sure this is an OS thread for people to share their experiences with the new generation O.S. .12 TZ motors.

I'm sure the Rody is a good motor, but it has it's own thread.