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Old 03-09-2009, 09:37 PM   #916
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somebody slap me. the bit of grime around it made it look like one piece but you are correct indeed, they were shims. looks like 2 alums (stuck together) which should be the .3, and one brass.

Sorry about that. It was stuck together pretty good, I mistook it for one piece. Thank you for the help guys, I'll head back out to the track and mess with this engine some more.
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Old 03-16-2009, 05:47 PM   #917
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I've got my engines for the 09 season.





Raced the p3l the first time this weekend, and it's actually pretty fast, i was planning to use it as a training engine but i might race it as well. Great bottom end and a nice top end, the only one gaining on me on the straight was a 353 tuned.
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Old 03-16-2009, 06:07 PM   #918
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Seems like we are all getting ready and cant wait for the change in weather
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Old 03-17-2009, 08:39 PM   #919
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Quote:
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I've got my engines for the 09 season.





Raced the p3l the first time this weekend, and it's actually pretty fast, i was planning to use it as a training engine but i might race it as well. Great bottom end and a nice top end, the only one gaining on me on the straight was a 353 tuned.


When you put the eagle in nobody will ever gain on you down the back straight ever again you will be the one gaining on everbody else. the eagle tl3t lacks a lot of bottomend compare the 353 and even the firstline pl3,and xxl3 ect but on a large track were it can rev it has more topend than any motor on the market. just gear it low to give you some more bottomend and that will keep the motor in its powerband and watch out because then you will have a missle you hands good luck
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Old 03-21-2009, 02:46 PM   #920
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hi guys...

I'm confused by the JP engine line-ups for .12

There seems to be Eagle, FX and Firstline. For each of these, there is Stock and Modified (black version). Is that right? 6 engines to choose from?

thanks.

g
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Old 03-21-2009, 04:53 PM   #921
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The fx line has been discontinued, the first line are basicly the same as the fx only they are cheaper because the new engines are the eagles, these are the fastest series and are based on the nova plus engines.

Just pick one which suits your budget and most importantly your skills, then you can't go wrong.
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Old 03-21-2009, 05:49 PM   #922
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The fx line has been discontinued, the first line are basicly the same as the fx only they are cheaper because the new engines are the eagles, these are the fastest series and are based on the nova plus engines.

Just pick one which suits your budget and most importantly your skills, then you can't go wrong.
thanks DS.. that helped alot.

i think i'll stretch the budget to firstline black version or stock eagle.... Which one is closest to the best, the black eagle, in performance ?

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Old 03-21-2009, 09:48 PM   #923
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Default jp eagle 9 on-road

question on the eagle 7port and 9 port motors<on-road>, is the stock version that much less of a performer/also im assuming the 7 is better suited to smaller tracks, i am new to jp motors also will a 2013 novarossi pipe work w/them or strickly jp pipes, wich works the best...5 min etc...i can tune with diff headersm but looking for best all around pipe for the eagle 9'r thanks in advance!

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Old 03-22-2009, 06:58 AM   #924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gortan View Post
thanks DS.. that helped alot.

i think i'll stretch the budget to firstline black version or stock eagle.... Which one is closest to the best, the black eagle, in performance ?

g
Well that's pretty hard to say, they are both fast engines but they have a different way of releasing the power.
The P3L Black has a lot of low end power(never seen a engine with that much torque) and lacks a bit in the high end department. So if you run on short tracks that will be a great engine
The stock Eagle is a bit more balanced in power, good mid power and a good top end. So if you run on a larger, more sweeping track i would go for the eagle.

But if you really have to stretch the budget to get the eagle, which is about 30% more expensive, then i think it's not worth it and better spend it on tyres and fuel and just practice, practice, practice.
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Old 03-22-2009, 07:47 AM   #925
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and, how about JP P3L black vs Novarossi Plus 12-3C and 12-3SCT?
I have a chance to buy P3L for about 180euros including shipping...
Have bought sct's for 230euros...

I run mainly at very big tracks..
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Old 03-22-2009, 09:46 AM   #926
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thanks ds.

that helped me make the decision

g
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Old 03-22-2009, 09:59 AM   #927
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could not find info on this thread, hence the following questions for the stock eagle:

how many shims for 16% and 20% nitro?
what plug for 16% and 20% nitro?
how many shims are in the stock eagle from factory?

how many litres before changing conrod?
how many litres before changing bearings?
how many litres before changing piston and sleeve?

sorry for all the questions.. hope someone can help...

thanks in adv.

g
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Old 03-22-2009, 12:08 PM   #928
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The engine comes shimmed at .3 mm. This is for 16%, for 20% you could add .1mm but you won't notice the difference between 16 and 20%, only in your wallet.

The plug i always use in my eagle's is a 6 or 7 from grp. A 6 when it's below 15 degrees outside and a 7 anything higher. I stopped using the nova one's because last year they started to fail really quickly.

The first conrod i use for break in and the first time racing it, so that's about 2 liter during break in and then 1 liter on race tune. After that they can last between 7-10 liters depends how hard you run it.

Bearings is almost unpredictable how long they last, i've had bearings fail within 5 liters and i have had bearings outlasting the p/s set.

For the p/s set it depends how you run it in, which fuel u use, how hard you run it and your tuning skills.
For an a example, my racing engines(Black Eagle) will get a new p/s after 10-15 liters because then it starts losing power.
But the engines i use for training will last for about 30 liters.
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Old 03-22-2009, 02:13 PM   #929
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thanks DS, really appreciate your time

I'm sure I won't notice the difference between 16% and 20%... but sometimes either one of them is not available... so I have to be prepared...

re: bearings... how do you notice they need to be replaced? I ask because I've killed my jl3 because recently. I was happy with the engine and the bearings failed after 20L +. So it's all my fault ... However I did open the engine regularly.. and saw no sign telling me - Change the BEARINGS ....

I was just looking for a ballpark figure... Something like... if after 15L the bearings still seem fine.. then replace for peace of mind!

thanks once again !!

g
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Old 03-23-2009, 05:37 PM   #930
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Most of the times you can feel it when you rotated the crank without anything else attached, it need to feel silky smooth, if you notice the slightest gritty feel then it's time to replace the bearings. Or when you pull the crank, then you can feel it as well. Sometimes you start to hear them as well during idle but then they are quite far gone already.
But around 15 liter then it's quite a good time to replace them anyway if you want to be safe.
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