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Old 06-30-2005, 12:13 PM   #1726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
1. The exhaust port sits very close to the side belt.
On my Yokomo GT4W2L the exhaust port its ALMOST rubbing against the belt, but it was just a thing of moving on angle the header to clear the problem ... and its working great for the last 2 years heheheheh ...


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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
2. When installing the motor and tightening the engine down. I noticed one bolt was having trouble staying still. It might have been the screw.
Always be sure to use good screws on your engine ...



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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
3. Then I finally noticed the flywheel is exposed underneath by like 1-2mm. I have installed two other motors on the car and none had this problem.
This its easy, just shim your engine mounts in order to clear that space ...




hope this helps ...
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Old 06-30-2005, 12:44 PM   #1727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
He have installed two other motors on the car and none had this problem.

Anyone got any ideas?
HPI PRO 4 has some 2mm or even 3mm spacer, you can mount those right below the enigne (above the engine mount)..........it has the bling bling purple color that match you R40.........however, I don't understand why their engine will seat lower then the typical engine spec....you sure you used the right engine mount (I doubt there are other R40 engine mount) or Flywheel (again, same thing...)
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Old 06-30-2005, 01:10 PM   #1728
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I have not noticed it being lower - my flywheel sits perfect with the mounts supplied to go with my centax..
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Old 06-30-2005, 01:36 PM   #1729
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Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
I have not noticed it being lower - my flywheel sits perfect with the mounts supplied to go with my centax..
Not sure is that because of the D3R instead of the D5R..? Or he was using some aftermarket centax......I doubt STS will do something SPECIAL when the engine size spec are something very universal.....
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Old 06-30-2005, 01:42 PM   #1730
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Actally my engine is currently on a monomount also - apparantly fits a lot of cars & engines - it fits the Dragon no worries..

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Old 06-30-2005, 04:24 PM   #1731
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OK, I've just got my factory mod d5r motor and I'm just about to break it in, does the engine have 3 shims already fitted (0.1,0.2,0.3mm) lookin at the exploded view on the manual it lists 3 different shims am I to assume all 3 are already fitted giving it total of .6mm spacing or should I just take the head off and look myself?

0.6mm spacing, a hot plug and 10% fuel sound like a good setup for breakin in? what sort of oil content should the fuel have. soz just dont want to screw this process up

also the manual speaks of this 'star technique' for tightening up the head screw. what is this technique?

I bet my lack of nitro tuning knowledge is really showing through

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Old 06-30-2005, 04:36 PM   #1732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
HPI PRO 4 has some 2mm or even 3mm spacer, you can mount those right below the enigne (above the engine mount)..........it has the bling bling purple color that match you R40.........however, I don't understand why their engine will seat lower then the typical engine spec....you sure you used the right engine mount (I doubt there are other R40 engine mount) or Flywheel (again, same thing...)
Just had my omega mounted on it and it fit perfect.
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Old 06-30-2005, 05:31 PM   #1733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hesky
OK, I've just got my factory mod d5r motor and I'm just about to break it in, does the engine have 3 shims already fitted (0.1,0.2,0.3mm) lookin at the exploded view on the manual it lists 3 different shims am I to assume all 3 are already fitted giving it total of .6mm spacing or should I just take the head off and look myself?

0.6mm spacing, a hot plug and 10% fuel sound like a good setup for breakin in? what sort of oil content should the fuel have. soz just dont want to screw this process up

also the manual speaks of this 'star technique' for tightening up the head screw. what is this technique?

I bet my lack of nitro tuning knowledge is really showing through

Cheers
Hesky
the star technique is where you tighten one screw, then tighten the one opposite that one, not the one next to it.. the same principle as tightening lug nuts on a real car..
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Old 06-30-2005, 06:07 PM   #1734
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ahh rite, like the 'crossed order' technique. never heard it called that b4.
Thanks onnetz
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Old 06-30-2005, 07:23 PM   #1735
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OK another lameo question will my motor have a base needle setting that is in the rough ball park so I can get it idling for breaking in? I've read the manual and it doesnt say how many turns on each needle is required to get it running. Please dont flame me this is my 1st attempt at running a race motor

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Old 06-30-2005, 07:31 PM   #1736
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The D5R comes with 0.5mm shims. Break in with the current shim setting and use maybe 16% nitro as it ensure plenty of lubrication during this process. You may wanna remove the copper (0.2mm) shim after the engine is well broken in. And this engine runs better with a hot plug, at least a 6TC
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Old 06-30-2005, 07:53 PM   #1737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BundyMan
The D5R comes with 0.5mm shims. Break in with the current shim setting and use maybe 16% nitro as it ensure plenty of lubrication during this process. You may wanna remove the copper (0.2mm) shim after the engine is well broken in. And this engine runs better with a hot plug, at least a 6TC
Hi BundyMan, thats loads of help! and the silver shim is 0.3mm. had a look through the side of the engine and can see 2 shims 1 silver the other copper (i'm to scared to take the heatsink and head button off my shiny new engine. I know, I'm a gimp)

I was thinkin once the engine is fully broken in I would run it on 25% with 0.5mm shim setup to keep the lower compression and use a medium plug to keep it running cooler and help prevent detination.

I'm still unsure of the initial needle settings, did yours have the needles roughly in the correct place or were they all over the place?

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Old 06-30-2005, 11:40 PM   #1738
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Well I shimmed the motor up. Took maybe 1mm to fix the problem. The flywheel was barely poking out but I just didnt want to cause trouble and this also helped me clear my belt a bit more... So I went ahead and loosened it.

Will give you guys the full report on how the motor runs if I decide to run it this weekend.
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Old 07-01-2005, 09:16 AM   #1739
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I went to start the engine for the first time to get it ready for the weekend. Its very hard to turn over like everyone says.

I got it to fire pretty easy. Only problem is it wouldnt stay running without the starter box and then it got stuck 10 seconds later and I cant move it at all.

Whats a good way to get the piston to move again. I already tried heating it with a blow-dryer to 150F. That didnt work and my dryer couldnt do much more.
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Old 07-01-2005, 01:18 PM   #1740
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I wonder if dinos about, maybe he has a few words of wisdom. there seems to be alot of guys with the same problem. I havent started breakin mine in yet but I bet its gonna be as tough as yours.
maybe get a hold of a heat gun so you can apply a little more heat and a bit more accuracy than a hair dryer. Also take the glow plug out to help pull the piston out of tdc if you havent already.
Will leaving the glow plug starter on help prevent the engine from flaming out? I guess it simply just has to much pinch.
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