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Old 07-01-2005, 02:03 PM   #1741
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Wow. Well I finally got the sucker to fire. Problem was it was set like 4 turns to rich on the high-speed needle and like 4 turns rich on the low.

I kept saying what is going on here and then I finally saw the fuel flowing it was like someone was drinking through a straw it was so fast.

I then kept pinching the fuel line and listened for the note change and nothing...so then finally I did it for awhile and it finally changed note and then , pa pa pa.....it fired.

So im like no way its this rich and kept turning the needle saying wow that was rich and still it wouldnt work. 4 turns later and I was worried about the needle getting almost closed it fires up and brought it to exactly 176....more rich than that and the motor wouldnt run.

How does this sound. Also after the heat cycling how much fuel would have been run through it by then?
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Old 07-02-2005, 04:25 AM   #1742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Wow. Well I finally got the sucker to fire. Problem was it was set like 4 turns to rich on the high-speed needle and like 4 turns rich on the low.

I kept saying what is going on here and then I finally saw the fuel flowing it was like someone was drinking through a straw it was so fast.

I then kept pinching the fuel line and listened for the note change and nothing...so then finally I did it for awhile and it finally changed note and then , pa pa pa.....it fired.

So im like no way its this rich and kept turning the needle saying wow that was rich and still it wouldnt work. 4 turns later and I was worried about the needle getting almost closed it fires up and brought it to exactly 176....more rich than that and the motor wouldnt run.

How does this sound. Also after the heat cycling how much fuel would have been run through it by then?
That means you need a hotter plug for running under rich setting. The engine will be easy to start and has stable idle. After 1L change back to mid plug.

If we make the piston/sleeve loose,the compression will be loose soon. Then people complain it,too. If we make the taper smaller,the max rpm will be less a bit. Lots of race engines have tighter piston/sleeve set. With tigher piston/sleeve set you will not lose compression once it overheat. Please be patience and use stronger starter box for break-in. If your starter box comes with 2x540 motors,the torque is not enough. So I usual break-in engine on break-in bench.
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Old 07-02-2005, 06:25 AM   #1743
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I have the 12V single starter ofna box. Its ok, the motor ending up not being that bad. I do believe the settings were really rich as the fuel was moving very fast through the line.

My first plug ended up fouling out after 10 seconds. I used an hpi r6 plug after that. It seems to work well.

After 2-3 cool-downs. I was able to richen it up and the day got cooler and the motor was getting around 150F. I then would let cool to around 100F.

I live in Florida. So it was around 88F and Very High Humidity.

Im now moving onto the run in portion on the track. Everything seems to be going well. Engine starts very easy , idles all day.
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Old 07-02-2005, 09:12 AM   #1744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
I have the 12V single starter ofna box. Its ok, the motor ending up not being that bad. I do believe the settings were really rich as the fuel was moving very fast through the line.

My first plug ended up fouling out after 10 seconds. I used an hpi r6 plug after that. It seems to work well.

After 2-3 cool-downs. I was able to richen it up and the day got cooler and the motor was getting around 150F. I then would let cool to around 100F.

I live in Florida. So it was around 88F and Very High Humidity.

Im now moving onto the run in portion on the track. Everything seems to be going well. Engine starts very easy , idles all day.
Your weather is very similar to ours in Taiwan. And you know Taiwan is a island. The island weather has high humidity. Now the air temp is 28-35c here.

Using STS there are two key points;
1) Not lean the low-speed needle. At least keep it 4 turns out from the end. If you want more low end torque,change a thicker clutch spring or lean the clutch nut.
2) Always use tallest 2nd gearing. STS is a high torque egnine,it has enough torque to pull your car. No need to worry about if the tallest 2nd gearing may let the acceleration slower. Only if you find the car slow down a bit when it hit the 2nd,then you may need to delay the timing of 2speed clutch.
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Old 07-02-2005, 09:44 AM   #1745
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What are the base needle settings and reccomended final tune settings?

Thanks for your info.

I think my low-speed as I received it was about 3-4 turns in from being flush. The low-speed is now pretty far in there. Probably another 4 turns. If I set it more rich it will die. It sounds like its loading up on fuel so Im guessing this is correct.

Im just not sure why it was so rich from the start. But things seem good. Im getting fuel spitting from the pipe.
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Old 07-02-2005, 10:28 AM   #1746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
What are the base needle settings and reccomended final tune settings?

Thanks for your info.

I think my low-speed as I received it was about 3-4 turns in from being flush. The low-speed is now pretty far in there. Probably another 4 turns. If I set it more rich it will die. It sounds like its loading up on fuel so Im guessing this is correct.

Im just not sure why it was so rich from the start. But things seem good. Im getting fuel spitting from the pipe.
The usable range of .12 carb is around;
HSN: 3~4 turns out.
LSN: 4~5 turns out.
The factory setting is both 4t out.
When you find it is very rich at low-mid,it may be caused by too low compression. You can try to remove some shims(0.1mm each step) to advance the ignition timing. All STS engine shims for 30% nitro.
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Old 07-02-2005, 12:16 PM   #1747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dino.tw
The usable range of .12 carb is around;
HSN: 3~4 turns out.
LSN: 4~5 turns out.
The factory setting is both 4t out.
When you find it is very rich at low-mid,it may be caused by too low compression. You can try to remove some shims(0.1mm each step) to advance the ignition timing. All STS engine shims for 30% nitro.
My high-speed needle was sticking out about 2mm from the base. Id say around 7-8 turns out. I guess I was smart to set that a little past flush with the base.
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Old 07-02-2005, 12:51 PM   #1748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dino.tw
The usable range of .12 carb is around;
HSN: 3~4 turns out.
LSN: 4~5 turns out.
The factory setting is both 4t out.
When you find it is very rich at low-mid,it may be caused by too low compression. You can try to remove some shims(0.1mm each step) to advance the ignition timing. All STS engine shims for 30% nitro.
Hi dino, by .12 carb u mean both d3r and d5r right?

Glad to hear your making progress AI, keep posting!

Cheers
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Old 07-03-2005, 05:21 AM   #1749
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Yeah luckily my track setup early yesterday. I went to it and ran the car for 3 hours. Got it pretty much broken-in and ready.

This is the fastest motor I have ever worked with. Its not even fully tuned and im having a hard time handling all the power. Its even faster than my 5port NOVA.

I ended up playing with the low-end settings last night. After the motor would heat up to around 212F. I was doing the ON / OFF / ON / OFF throttle blips around the track. Then I would richen the car to where it would almost die if I let it sit. Then I would send it back out.

Then there would be lots of smoke and even more power. Then I would shut off the engine and let cool down for next tank of gas. And always the car would turn on....but it couldnt idle. It needs to be throttled to wake up the engine at those settings?

Does this sound right. I like the power and the additional cooling of the rich low end. But I do the fuel line pinch and the car doesnt really start revving until 4 seconds. Indicating an overly rich setting. Should I just not worry about the fuel pinch technique and just worry about power?

Or should I try to lean the low-end. It also seems when im choosing to start to lean the HSN temps go up pretty high around 240 right away without even race pace. Reason why I try to run the low-speed so rich.

I think im going to try and run the reccomended settings you gave me then go from there.

Thanks Dino for your help. These engines are just amazing!
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Old 07-03-2005, 06:11 AM   #1750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hesky
Hi dino, by .12 carb u mean both d3r and d5r right?

Glad to hear your making progress AI, keep posting!

Cheers
Yes,not much different. Maybe 1/2 turns different only.
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Old 07-03-2005, 06:36 AM   #1751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Yeah luckily my track setup early yesterday. I went to it and ran the car for 3 hours. Got it pretty much broken-in and ready.

This is the fastest motor I have ever worked with. Its not even fully tuned and im having a hard time handling all the power. Its even faster than my 5port NOVA.

I ended up playing with the low-end settings last night. After the motor would heat up to around 212F. I was doing the ON / OFF / ON / OFF throttle blips around the track. Then I would richen the car to where it would almost die if I let it sit. Then I would send it back out.

Then there would be lots of smoke and even more power. Then I would shut off the engine and let cool down for next tank of gas. And always the car would turn on....but it couldnt idle. It needs to be throttled to wake up the engine at those settings?

Does this sound right. I like the power and the additional cooling of the rich low end. But I do the fuel line pinch and the car doesnt really start revving until 4 seconds. Indicating an overly rich setting. Should I just not worry about the fuel pinch technique and just worry about power?

Or should I try to lean the low-end. It also seems when im choosing to start to lean the HSN temps go up pretty high around 240 right away without even race pace. Reason why I try to run the low-speed so rich.

I think im going to try and run the reccomended settings you gave me then go from there.

Thanks Dino for your help. These engines are just amazing!
So I said you need tallest 2nd gears,no need to worry. The torque is huge!
How much idle time is perfect? You need to think about the operation. Would you stay on the track for more than 5sec when racing? Waiting for your buddy then run together? If the answer is no,you can let the engine has 15sec idle time. You may need 15sec idle time for pit-stop. I think that is enough. In fact my engine may only idle for 5~10sec. When I leave pit,I won't WOT suddenly. I will ON/OFF/ON/OFF throttle blips for a while. With this kind of setting,you can lean the HSN more and the engine still will not over-heat. I think there is no certain answer. It depends on what you need.

You can just start to forget how many turns of the needles now,just remember when you lean the HSN,you may need to rich the LSN at the same time. When you lean the LSN,you may need to rich the HSN also. If you move HSN for 5 mins,then move the LSN 10mins(double). Then you will find a balance point between HSN and LSN.
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Old 07-03-2005, 09:36 AM   #1752
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Hey dino what engine breaking bench do you use? And what steps do you take when breaking in an engine?
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Old 07-03-2005, 10:30 AM   #1753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dino.tw
Yes,not much different. Maybe 1/2 turns different only.
thanks for the reply dino
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Old 07-03-2005, 10:59 AM   #1754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
This is the fastest motor I have ever worked with. Its not even fully tuned and im having a hard time handling all the power. Its even faster than my 5port NOVA.


Now your motors pretty much broken in what are your thoughts on the Conrod, will you be replacing the current one? I remember reading Dino say somethin about replacing it 2 ltrs or so in, not sure if he ment 2ltrs after breakin in or 2ltrs inclusive of breakin. I guess a simple inspection for play will give you a good idea of what needs to be done or not done.

Cheers
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Old 07-03-2005, 11:12 AM   #1755
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Dino!! It's been a long time!!! I'm back in nitro again...

Thinking of getting a STS D3R is it any good? Hehe...what kinda of plugs do I need to get for it? Spares? Thx.!!!

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