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Old 07-03-2005, 01:44 PM   #1756
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Originally Posted by dino.tw
So I said you need tallest 2nd gears,no need to worry. The torque is huge!
How much idle time is perfect? You need to think about the operation. Would you stay on the track for more than 5sec when racing? Waiting for your buddy then run together? If the answer is no,you can let the engine has 15sec idle time. You may need 15sec idle time for pit-stop. I think that is enough. In fact my engine may only idle for 5~10sec. When I leave pit,I won't WOT suddenly. I will ON/OFF/ON/OFF throttle blips for a while. With this kind of setting,you can lean the HSN more and the engine still will not over-heat. I think there is no certain answer. It depends on what you need.

You can just start to forget how many turns of the needles now,just remember when you lean the HSN,you may need to rich the LSN at the same time. When you lean the LSN,you may need to rich the HSN also. If you move HSN for 5 mins,then move the LSN 10mins(double). Then you will find a balance point between HSN and LSN.
Back for a second to check this post before returning. I got 2nd place in qualifying. I tried 4 4 on both needles. It was too rich to start or run the car. To even run it right. It needs to be 2 turns out from closed for both.

It still runs ok temps. It seems also the idle changes from how hot the engine is. So im just going to tune for power and smoke I guess?

Im not sure why the needle settings are hard to tune...but it still runs pretty good.
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Old 07-03-2005, 05:52 PM   #1757
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Yeah so I noticed something odd from before. I was going to tune the motor and two seperate times after resettng the needles.

After a leaning them in so much both times. I noticed that by the end I was about .5 turn out. I was kinda freaked both times as I was like whoa was that too lean. But as I turned it fully closed. The car kept gaining power and rpm. Indicating it needs to be leaned more.

Dino I saw you indicated to me that I should remove a shim. With 20% nitro in Hot / Humid Florida. Do you think this would fix that problem or is something else going on?

Also your right about the D3R liking the rich low-end. I noticed even before that you told me that it makes more power and smoke with a nice rich low-speed needle.

I got it to where it would almost die after about 20 seconds. This seemed to decrease the low-speed a little but I like that what you say goes along with what im finding. Makes me trust you and lets me know you really know the specifics of these motors. Thank you for your help.
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Old 07-05-2005, 08:04 AM   #1758
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Originally Posted by Neil
Hey dino what engine breaking bench do you use? And what steps do you take when breaking in an engine?
a hand made break in bench. I don't use propeller because a unbalanced propeller may damage the bearing. So I only put on a flywheel. Heat cycle for 6~8 times. Let engine reach the working temp then stop it. When the engine is easy to start(not tight anymore) then keep on break in it on the track.
I will not run it under very rich setting. But I use my finger to control the engine temp. Runing it as.....slow~slow~fast~slow~slow~fast~slow~slow~fas t~....
Always make sure there is a lot smoke and keep your egnine temp close to working temp. Once it overheat a bit,take a break and let it cool down fully. Then repeat the process,you will find the engine temp become cooler between each tank. Then you need to lean a bit between each tank.
You need to break in your egnine at working temp. All parts size will fit perfect after break in process. If you just let it idle,the engine will be hard to break-in.
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Old 07-05-2005, 08:13 AM   #1759
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Originally Posted by Hesky


Now your motors pretty much broken in what are your thoughts on the Conrod, will you be replacing the current one? I remember reading Dino say somethin about replacing it 2 ltrs or so in, not sure if he ment 2ltrs after breakin in or 2ltrs inclusive of breakin. I guess a simple inspection for play will give you a good idea of what needs to be done or not done.

Cheers
Use digital clipper to check your conrod and crankpin,wrist pin. Let the play between conrod's bushing and pin not bigger than 0.05mm. If the play is bigger than 0.05mm,your engine will become not stable. And it may be damaged if you race it.
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Old 07-05-2005, 08:19 AM   #1760
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Originally Posted by loosenut
Dino!! It's been a long time!!! I'm back in nitro again...

Thinking of getting a STS D3R is it any good? Hehe...what kinda of plugs do I need to get for it? Spares? Thx.!!!

G
Welcome back,G.
#6 or #7 plugs on Summer.Maybe a spare conrod is enough. Choice a good fuel will save you a lot of money on parts.
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Old 07-05-2005, 08:28 AM   #1761
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Dino I saw you indicated to me that I should remove a shim. With 20% nitro in Hot / Humid Florida. Do you think this would fix that problem or is something else going on?
Yes,try 0.3mm silver shim with 20% fuel and readjust the carburetor.
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Old 07-05-2005, 08:45 AM   #1762
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Does it sound normal that the HSN was almost fully closed to produce good power? Also when finally closed the car continued to pick up power indicating it still was pretty rich.

Do you think the shim removal would solve the problem?
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Old 07-05-2005, 09:12 AM   #1763
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Does it sound normal that the HSN was almost fully closed to produce good power? Also when finally closed the car continued to pick up power indicating it still was pretty rich.

Do you think the shim removal would solve the problem?
I just checked my setting is;
LSN--6 turns out
HSN--2.6 turns out
How's your setting now?
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Old 07-05-2005, 11:38 AM   #1764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dino.tw
Use digital clipper to check your conrod and crankpin,wrist pin. Let the play between conrod's bushing and pin not bigger than 0.05mm. If the play is bigger than 0.05mm,your engine will become not stable. And it may be damaged if you race it.
Thanks for the info dino!
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Old 07-06-2005, 04:10 PM   #1765
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when is the next .12 or maybe smallblock .15 going to be introduced?
also when is the USA distrubuter going to get new stock?
I am looking for a new d5r maybe!! also a crank and rod.. any suggestions on where to get them?

Last edited by rge63; 07-06-2005 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 07-06-2005, 06:49 PM   #1766
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Hey dino. You guys should hook up on a .15 small block, with like 7 ports. Thatll be hot. Then youll already have some testors. Us on the board of course . My motor is running pretty nice. I like it how it is. It is at 4 on the lsn, and like 3 or 2.5 on the hsn. Pretty nice!!!
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Old 07-06-2005, 08:04 PM   #1767
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Originally Posted by nsxshogun
Hey dino. You guys should hook up on a .15 small block, with like 7 ports. Thatll be hot. Then youll already have some testors. Us on the board of course . My motor is running pretty nice. I like it how it is. It is at 4 on the lsn, and like 3 or 2.5 on the hsn. Pretty nice!!!
What fuel / percentage and glow-plug are you running.
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Old 07-06-2005, 09:37 PM   #1768
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I'm using 25 percent and a med cold hpi plug.
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Old 07-07-2005, 09:16 AM   #1769
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I'm using 25 percent and a med cold hpi plug.
LOL is it the R7? Im running the same plug. Im running 20% I dont know why my settings are so far off.

Did you take out a shim? I might try just buying some 30% and seeing how it goes.
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Old 07-07-2005, 09:28 AM   #1770
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Well I got mine used so I only know about the one silver shim in there. It could be another but I don't know. Ill check my settings later but I know they are about 3.7-3.5 on the lsn and probally about 2.5-3 on the hsn.
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