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Old 06-23-2005, 05:50 AM   #1711
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hi, got an email in the end from mushy, apparently they will have a delivery in 2 weeks time. I couldnt wait that long so went with the people at project zen.

Cheers
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Old 06-24-2005, 01:22 PM   #1712
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Anybody know if a JP mod engine head will fit on a D5. Hmm I also maybe trying to modify my motor soon, anybody got any pointers?
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Old 06-24-2005, 01:25 PM   #1713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsxshogun
Anybody know if a JP mod engine head will fit on a D5. Hmm I also maybe trying to modify my motor soon, anybody got any pointers?

yes it will fit, but you might need to turn down the O.D. of the D5's button head just a little bit.
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Old 06-24-2005, 01:42 PM   #1714
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Whats the O.D.?
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Old 06-24-2005, 01:56 PM   #1715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsxshogun
Whats the O.D.?

the outside diameter of the button head, some cooling head has a slightly smaller I.D. and will interfer with a STS button head, but it is easier to turn down the button head than to open up the cooling head.
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Old 06-24-2005, 06:29 PM   #1716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsxshogun
Anybody know if a JP mod engine head will fit on a D5. Hmm I also maybe trying to modify my motor soon, anybody got any pointers?
Polished parts help flow more. Polish everything that doesnt have a rough finish. Rounding the con-rod helps flow as well as lightens the con-rod allowing more rpm and im sure power.

You can then polish the inside of the crank...where the fuel gets sucked in.

Polish the outside of the sleeve. Clean up any ports or if you can polish them to where they are exagerated even more. This can be tricky.

Then check out the exhaust port. Judging my d3r I doubt there will be anything to improve as my sts motor has the best looking exhaust port Ive ever seen.

The rest becomes tricky work and effects timing and other things. Otherwise the stuff I just listed is good to play around with and see what comes of things.

If the motor is used this will also help clean away old residue and will help refresh and further extract power from your motor.
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Old 06-24-2005, 06:48 PM   #1717
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Yea I may try that when the current p/s set shows signs of dying. Don't want to mess anything up while its running good.
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Old 06-28-2005, 01:20 PM   #1718
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Default d3r engine

hi all, i too have had problem running the engines in.
and also to go well.
ive had loads of rossi engines and they all seem to go great, with out much messing about with them.
i understand they take a long time to run in, but ive already got sick of it .
they just dond seemed to have the pulling power or pace of the nova
maybe its just gearing ive got a serpent 710.
we run 16% fuel in the uk so ive also taken a head shim out and tryed all sorts of plugs long and short .
any idears deno?
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Old 06-28-2005, 04:17 PM   #1719
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Get a Mega....
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http://www.fast-rc.co.uk/forum/index.php

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Old 06-28-2005, 04:41 PM   #1720
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Default sts running in

Hi Darcy i also have the same problems, so what i do is get a heat gun heat the motor up so every thing expands then start it up from there, i also found that you don;t flog out the rod so quickly as well.To the sts not standing up to your expectations,i felt the same when i was running one in my mtx3 i used to own,so i bought a kyoshorrr and the same engine runs 2 sec quicker that is due to the different drive trains.Hope that helps a little.
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Old 06-29-2005, 12:12 AM   #1721
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Default Polishing crazy...

Artificial-I, I'm sorry but I gotta claim BS on the polishing tip. Polishing exerything is a waste of time and can actually hurt flow. See, every surface has whats called a boundry layer or a thin layer of air molecules that actually clings to the surface, regardless of how smooth the surface is. The bad thing about polishing is, unless you are extremely good with your porting tools, you may cause ripples in the surfaces you polish. These ripples even the most minute, can cause eddy currents or disturbances in air flow, and really muck things up. I have found it is best to only grind or polish what you want to modify or change, ie. crank outlet, cyl ports etc. I never just go crazy and polish everything I can reach. Also be carefull not to take to much material from the crank and rod without rebalancing the assy. The designers of the engine undoubtedly spent some time researching and testing the correct balance for your engine and it shouldn't be altered unless you know how to counter act the lightening of each part.
My .02

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Old 06-29-2005, 07:30 AM   #1722
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The extremely tight fitting the STS's have is mainly because they don't matche the piston and lseeve to each other, MEGA and Novarossi and all the other highend manufacturers matches the fitting in piston and sleeve so that they are perfect, with the STS engines you have to do this fitting by yourself by breaking it in
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Old 06-29-2005, 08:09 AM   #1723
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Hi guys, i am currently using an STS d3r.....it was 2nd hand but the settings seem really screwed.

I was just wondering if anyone could give me some factory settings where i could start from.

Thanks
Matt
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Old 06-29-2005, 09:34 AM   #1724
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Default .21 offroad pipe for sale

Anyone interested in a .21 pipe please look here at the for sale forum. Thanks.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=76457
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Old 06-29-2005, 04:24 PM   #1725
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Hey guys. I installed my D3R finally onto my R40. I noticed three things when installing it.

1. The exhaust port sits very close to the side belt.
2. When installing the motor and tightening the engine down. I noticed one bolt was having trouble staying still. It might have been the screw.
3. Then I finally noticed the flywheel is exposed underneath by like 1-2mm. I have installed two other motors on the car and none had this problem.

Anyone got any ideas?
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