R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road > Onroad Nitro Engine Zone

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-17-2005, 10:09 AM   #1681
Moderator
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Artificial-I
Default

BTW I think dino says to not go over 240 with these motors. I generally try to stick with that rule as well. Even though there are a lot of people say tune for whatever temp works. I still try to stick to the 240.
Artificial-I is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2005, 10:31 AM   #1682
Nitro Tech
 
dino.tw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: I can drive!
Posts: 1,459
Default

I have tested a lot of temp guns. All of them tell me different numbers. Maybe yours tell me 240 but mine tell me 280. What is the real temp?

If you can run constant on the track,tell you a way to estimate if the engine is going to overheat. Running on the track first and see if there is a low speed corner. Every time when you pass the corner,there must have some smoke be exhausted out. OK,focus on this corner. Every time you pass the corner,check the change of the smoke. If the smoke become less that means the engine temp up. If the smoke become more that means the engine temp down. When it almost have no change,that means the engine is at a stable setting. When there is almost no smoke,that means the engine temp is close to 300F.
dino.tw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2005, 10:46 AM   #1683
Moderator
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Artificial-I
Default

Turn your oven on to 250 degrees. Once it pre-heats if you have the infared type shoot it in there and see if it reads 250.

Thats the same range youll be reading and if its good your temp gun is accurate. Its not going to be off that drastically. But yeah reading from one point to the next could result in maybe 10degrees.

The reason why I dont stick right to the 240 range. But I try to stick near it and try not to go over it.

Another simple test which can be even more accurate. Put water in a pot, put on the stove. Turn on. When the water starts to boil take a reading. Then compare to the temperate at which water boils, which can vary based on your elevation.

To calcuate the elevation go here:

http://www.biggreenegg.com/boilingPoint.htm

Then once you find your local boiling point. You know thats what it should read and if it reads that on the gun.

You have yourself an accurate gun and you can go out and tune accordingly knowing its accurate.

Even if your gun is off. You can remember by how much and calculate accordingly. The point is, these guns are very accurate. I know at least the raytec is pretty accurate and is used commercially as well.

But I thought you said you want the motor to be around 240. Correct?
Artificial-I is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2005, 11:20 AM   #1684
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 4
Default

Hi There

I have recently purchased a .28 STS engine. which I have put into my Rex-X. I have been running this for a couple of months now. But today I noticed that the LSN had come out completely.

If someone can tell me what the factory settings are for both the HSN and the LSN I would be greatful. I cannot seem to find this information anywhere.

Thank you all
T2UK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2005, 11:42 AM   #1685
Tech Fanatic
 
nsxshogun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 847
Send a message via AIM to nsxshogun
Default

Ran the motor earlier.





FAST

When I first ran it the temps were about 190-200 made very nice power.
Then I leaned untill about 230-240. FASTER

Then I richened it back out to about 3turns for a tank and noticed that at those settings it guzzeled gas like it was free. So I'm thinking 2.5---3.0 is better for the HSN. I'm still trying to get the lsn right though. Also the colder plug really made this thing fly.
nsxshogun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2005, 11:44 AM   #1686
Tech Fanatic
 
nsxshogun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 847
Send a message via AIM to nsxshogun
Default

So dino could you get me some STS stickers?
nsxshogun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2005, 11:55 AM   #1687
afm
Tech Master
 
afm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: lima-peru
Posts: 1,807
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nsxshogun
............... I'm still trying to get the LSN right though. Also the colder plug really made this thing fly.
Obtaining a good carburetion of the engine could appear as a hard obstacle even if in reality is quite simple. The most important thing while carbureting is to well understand how a carburetor works and having a good feeling with the sounds produced by the engine.

All carburetors are factory set on a flow bench. For this reason it is recommended that you count the number of turns on the low and high end needles before you use the engine. All carbs are not the same, but are set to flow the same amount of air and fuel. Up to a one half turn difference can be had on factory carburetor settings on each needle. A two micron difference in the needle taper can make the setting up to 1/2 turn different from another carb.
It is also not recommended not to adjust the mid-range needle setting until you are completely comfortable with carburetor adjustment.How big is a micron? There are 25,400 microns in one inch. This dot (.) is approximately 1/64 of an inch wide and equals 615 microns. It doesn't take much to off set a needle setting.

PROCEDURE
First you have to warm up the engine for a couple of minutes with a very light acceleration. Adjusting of the minimum speed: when the engine is at about 85 - 100 C, keep the carburetor at the minimum rpm (with the throttle completely closed) and adjust the minimum needle screw (air needle) so that the engine reaches a regular RPM (.5 to 1mm slide piston open).

The carburetor has two main adjustments (leave mid range needle untouched):
1. The needle of the throttle (low needle) which adjusts the engine when you start it up in static position and at a low speed up to its medium rpm.

2. The top needle (high needle) that adjusts the engine to medium - high rpm, at the maximum speed level and acceleration ADVISEAlways adjust the high speed needle in a way that the engine, with the carburetor opened at a maximum produces smoke while driving straight. This means that you are doing a "rich" carburetion.

ATTENTION: If you use the engine in a "lean" condition you can damage the engine due to a lack of oil.

Static carburetion:
Now you can start giving much more power to the accelerator in order to hear the engine at a higher rpm. If the engine grows up very quickly or sobs (before you reach the maximum gas), the carburetion is "lean", the volume of fuel you introduce in the combustion chamber is not up to the request of the engine.In this case you have to screw off the full speed needle till you hear a more regular noise coming from the engine and a good quantity of smoke has to come out from the pipe. If the engine has difficulties in going up with the rpm, sobs and a lot of smoke together with oil comes out from the exhaust, the carburetion is "rich", which means that too many fuel goes into the combustion chamber and the engine is not able to burn it.Screw in or fasten the screw of the high speed needle till the quantity of smoke coming out from the exhaust is more balanced and the rpms are higher.

Carburetion in movement:
At this point you have to make the carburetion with the car driving on a racetrack. The behavior of the engine is the same but now you have one more help: the engine reflects its behavior on the car and due to that the carburetion is now simpler. Make a couple of laps in order to reach the working temperature always taking care that at full gas a good quantity of smoke comes out from the exhaust.

Carburetion of the low speed needle:
Try to stop the engine for 2-3 second and then start quickly. If the engine sobs and presents difficulties in starting, the base speed goes up, and no smoke is coming out from the engine, the carburetion is lean of low speed. In this case you have to screw out the needle till the starting and the sound of the engine improves.If on the other hand the engine has difficulties in increasing the rpm, a lot of smoke comes out or stops, then it is "rich of low speed". In this case you have to screw the needle till you reach a progressive sound of the engine, a hiss and a some smoke comes out. Overall, your engine should idle nice and consistent for at least 45+ seconds before the idle slows enough to stall the engine.

Carburetion of the high speed needle:
Make 2 or 3 laps in this condition and adjust the high speed needle so that the engine produces a constant acceleration till the end of the longest straightaway of the track with a hiss for all the length. Making other 2 or 3 laps you can check if the engine keeps the performances all over the track under the maximum power. If so, then the carburetion is OK!In case it looses power and decreases rpm, screw out the full speed needle about 1/8 th (richen the carburetion) and try again and again till you reach stable performances.

AFM
afm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2005, 02:43 PM   #1688
Tech Fanatic
 
nsxshogun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 847
Send a message via AIM to nsxshogun
Default

I'm gonna print this out!!!!
Thanx

Well I'm running the motor on and off now. AND this is just how my face is


I'm almost done the low end tuning. So it only idles for like 15secs. But the motor is running at about 193-200 and it flies. As soon as I get my car shifting into second gear its going to give hell to anyone who steps to it. A D3R will definatly be next years race motor. Ok im gonna go back out and run this bad boy.
nsxshogun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2005, 02:44 PM   #1689
Tech Fanatic
 
nsxshogun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 847
Send a message via AIM to nsxshogun
Default

Also whats the normal runniing temp for the sts? I'm gonna shoot for 240 as soon as I get the low speed right.
nsxshogun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2005, 06:01 PM   #1690
afm
Tech Master
 
afm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: lima-peru
Posts: 1,807
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nsxshogun
Also whats the normal runniing temp for the sts? I'm gonna shoot for 240 as soon as I get the low speed right.
There is no IDEAL temperature for any engine. There are many variables that affect it; Ambient temp, fuel type and nitro content, head shim, altitude & barometric pressure, Pipe/manifold type and setting, clutch setting, glow-plug, gear ratio, available traction, How hard your driving, on road or off road Etc. Etc.

All of the following conditions MUST be met before any temperature can be considered correct, assuming the engine is in good shape.
There must be a visible trail of smoke when accelerating from EVERY corner.
The idle is stable.
The glow plug wire stays somewhat shiny and the coil stays round (UN - DISTORTED).
The performance is good.

To know if your engine is properly tuned, you should learn how to read a plug.

1.-Wire and surrounding bottom of plug wet, with like new shiny wire = Rich side of optimum power 85%
2.-Wire and surrounding bottom of plug starting to dry and wire starting to gray = Very close to optimum power 95%
3.-Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire totally gray but not distorted = Optimum power 100%
4.-Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire distorted = Slightly lean DANGER!
5.-Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire broken and distorted or burnt up = Extremely lean POSSIBLE ENGINE DAMAGE!

Actually when a new plug wire just goes slightly gray after a 5 or 10 minute of hard run, it means you are very close to an optimal horsepower tune, but be careful the next step is TOO LEAN!

Note: You can only "Read" your plug in a nearly new state (Wire like new and shiny). A gray plug can still operate well. But after it has totally gone gray performance can start to fall off. To test just put in a new plug and if there is no difference in performance save the gray one or put it back in. If your engine does not feel or run right try a new plug before making major tune change's.

Now, taking into account all of the above, I've found that STS engines read temperatures between 240F and 250F without problems, and give their best performance.

AFM
afm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2005, 07:00 PM   #1691
Tech Fanatic
 
nsxshogun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 847
Send a message via AIM to nsxshogun
Default

Mine right now is in between 1 and 2.
nsxshogun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2005, 08:17 PM   #1692
Tech Addict
 
Neil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: me..me..me
Posts: 583
Send a message via MSN to Neil
Default

Afm you should write a book on engine tuning. You are dead on.

Neil
Neil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2005, 08:19 PM   #1693
Moderator
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Artificial-I
Default

Yes AFM and DINO seem to be very knowledgable tuners.

AFM is this all your own info? Same goes for DINO if so you should write a couple of articles or something and make this kind of great info and your name last forever.

Cause Ive seen some seriously good and almost scientific info come from you two.

Congrats , keep the good information flowing.
Artificial-I is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2005, 03:59 AM   #1694
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 66
Default

What are the factory settings for the engine?
I've just changed fuel so I need a good setting (I am using o'donnell 25% nitro, it is 70 fahrenheit warm)
Mr.No1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2005, 10:25 AM   #1695
Nitro Tech
 
dino.tw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: I can drive!
Posts: 1,459
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.No1
What are the factory settings for the engine?
I've just changed fuel so I need a good setting (I am using o'donnell 25% nitro, it is 70 fahrenheit warm)
.12
HSN--4t
LSN--4t
Mid--flat
---------
.21/.28
HSN--2t
LSN--3t
dino.tw is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
.:Go Engines vs. Jammin Engines:. lanerbrainer205 Nitro Off-Road 20 12-23-2007 04:46 PM
.12 Engines sale all new pipes too. 6 engines ericsp2 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 08-06-2007 02:19 PM
os engines compared to rb engines rhymster Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 4 08-03-2007 05:13 PM
IDM engines and picco engines foampervert Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 5 11-23-2006 05:36 AM
SH engines crazyjr Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 7 01-20-2006 03:13 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:22 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net