I'll take the reducer out and measure it. What would be a good starting point with the reducer out?

Will mine is .56 I have a gage set I use to set gap. but most people set them about. 7mm it about the size of most Paper clips the small one. Or credit card. I had just check mine with my hudy 1.5 hex tool. So if you have a 1.5 hex tool grab it .
now look for the idle screw
take the 1.5 hex tool and stick it between the idles screw head and the outside of the carb body. Back out the screw till it fits in between the screw and body.
after you get it to fit turn in till it snoug then go about a half turn more.that should put right about where im at. You should put you lsn in a couple of turn and retune it cause it will change the idle on you car also I would go back to the hs and put that about a flush or a half turn in just to make sure it got oil so it does not lean out on you.if after you make these adjustment and the idle gap is to small and the car dies to fast after it warmed up turn it in like about 1/ 16 turn then re tune the low speed again. You will lean out the ls with the car hot and warmed up to temps only. Take some high speed passes and if the car stay at a high idle for more than 1 seconds turn the ls counter clockwise in like 1/16 turn. You dont have to get to a 1 second mark if you cant but at least get it to the 4 second part any high than 4 it to rich.i hope this helps.if any more questions just ask

With the insert out its .61. I did notice after I do a couple high speed passes it will idle high for 5 sec. then drop down and then idle what seems like forever. I havent tuned it to be over 245F yet. I'll take it for a spin tomorrow and set the idle screw like you said, and post my results. Thanks for your help.

If your idle gap is .61mm just leave it there.that is small enough. Just work you low speed a little. Your idle gap is almost always a set once and forget kinda thing. But sometime you might have to make it bigger. But that like one of those in a blue moon thing.

Ok, as far as the temps what should I be looking for. Some say when it drops its nuts it will suddenly go rich and temps would will drop. Dont think I have quit got there yet but I would like to play it safe.

That alk depend on where your playing at. Yoh said you be bashing with some races here and there. So got 245 now should be fine for that Causer if your in the grad and going overt over rough and though thick weeds and stuff that will make your temps go up Yoh should see a thicker trail of smoke then. But if you racing at the track goy temps should stay about the same with out any major spikes like bashing. so we get are pretty close to 95%range of a tune were you should be like 90. Just an example only. So wer can run are engine hotter with just a little trail of smoke. And the added bonus we want to win the race lol. So we try to get all wer can with blowing it up. So for racing I would think around 260 to 280 might be Ok.i have not faced this motor yet so I can't really say. There is alot that depends on yep also.

Yeah its a nice thick trail of smoke on the low end and as it goes through rpm range the smoke thins out but not to faint smoke lije when your at the track. It gets to the top without sputtering yet its not lean bogging either but I can tell its still rich on top and bottom. Man I would love to race this engine. 20 years off and on in the hobby and never really got to do much racing. I can imagine the grins this motor would give in the winners circle. I'll be taking the kids to ride dirtbikes tomorrow so I'll bring my truggy with me to get some action during the downtime. I'll let you know how it goes. Oh yeah and I'll try it with the tb-1 pipe too.

Temps on the Argus in race conditions should be 240 and up. This is in most normal 70 to 90 degree air temps. I have seen many times people not get the full potential from there engines because they run well on the rich side too.

Rex

Forgot to add up to 300 deg with some smoke is ok but a little on the lean side. They can really take the heat well and it will not hurt it.

Rex

Ok thanks Rex. So I'll lean out the bottom and top some more and get it in the 250-265 range today see how that goes. Thanks again imrob for your help.

Rex this is Willie thanks for the pipes and an awesome engine and all the help.

Here is my take on tuning. With most of todays engines using a long lsn it can take a bit to find a "balance". I used to set the idle gap pretty small about .5 mm but sometimes the engine would cut out in the mid range. It seemed like the hsn was lean because the lsn seemed fine at idle etc. What happens if you have a small idle gap you need to lean the lsn to get the idle right. This makes the lsn go in farther, in turn it can restrict the flow in the mid and upper range.
If your engine cuts out in the mid range open up the idle gap a bit and richen the lsn and it should go away. It is fairly normal for the idle to be up a bit when you bring it in pit lane and then drop. If it revs in the air over jumps then your idle gap is probably too wide. This is not just for Argus/Alpha engines but all engines with a long lsn.

Rex

this is a good example of that once in a blue moon thing and yes i did run into this before that way im trying out the .56 gap. seem good for now got 1500cc ran in this 23. track should be open in for racing in about two week. almost time to play cant wait yet.

Well things didnt go according to plan went out today, got the engine warmed up thanks to my son behind the wheel�� started to tune the bottom then my son says it wont go. Long story short throttle servo went caput ending the rc day.

Bummer. Get something I n the 200oz range. And if your tx has epa for throttle and brake separate make sure to set the brake epa as low as possible. That seem to be the big reason why people lose servos.

Yeah didnt think something like that would happening. This is the second 1 in a month. I had my epa's set so it wouldnt strain. Just died on me