Worn out, get a new engine

Anyone have any experience with a pre run engine? Curious to find out if it's worth the 30 extra dollars.

Factor in fuel, time to break in correctly, it's well worth the 30?

Also from what I heard is that if you buy a pre run, it's ready to get on the track and receive a race tune.

I still heat cycled mine for a dozen tanks, I also preheated the engine for the first 2 gallons. I think it was worth the extra money for the "pre-run". Mainly because of the time it saves you, also your neighbors will appreciate it.

I have made a break-in bench without the need to fire up the engine and after 4 hours the engine is in a pre-runned state. With just 2 tanks on the track I could go on full power which did save me a lot of fuel, time, a rod change and a set of tires. So yes, 30 euro is a good save.

Yes, worth it, u need another 5 tanks to lean it an hour each tank to race tune it. Usually the factory break in help u to do the nastiest job in break-in

Picked up a used keep-off 21-4 cheap.

The p/s is in great shape with great compression.

Got the engine apart and it had a lot of rust internally. I'm gonna replace the bearings.

The crank had a lot of rust on the counterweight and inside the center hole. I mic'd the pin and it measured .1962/.1959 so it's well within tolerance on the rod pin. All of the other critical surfaces are clean and mic up fine.

I masked all of the critical surfaces and sandblasted all of the rust off.

Will this be ok? has anyone done this before?

I don't want to spend money on a crank iff I don't have to.

i wouldnt sand blast a crank.....

Most of the time what looks like rust is just caked and dried castor oil...It looks just like rust !

as maximo has said i was given a btt this year that looked about the same after a soak in fuel it cleaned right up.
the big giveaway was what looked like rust on a stainless bearing race.... real stainless doesnt rust

400 series does, not sure what the bearing races are made from, but if I had to guess I would say 440C

If a nova crankcase have some deep scratches (4btt),will the engine losses it idling ability. I got 1 from a friend and it wont idling good, compression is good, crank is good.

Has anybody had an issue with the C5TGN plugs. The past couple of weeks, my elite 8 wouldn't run at the beginning of heats. I installed a new C5TGN and it would run. The old plug glows, but it won't run unless I leave the igniter on it. Basically I'm only getting one race day on a plug and it still fires on the igniter.

Tips if you need to use igniter to keep it running, the plug is bad even if glow brightly, other symptoms of bad plug is misfiring...

I'm looking for someone familiar with the Keep Off 4. I have about 3-4 gallons through mine. Idles an runs perfect except it seems to have a dead spot at low rpms coming off of idle. Basically lacking any low end punch at all.

I've driven a car with the same motor an pipe setup so I know it has tons on the bottom. But mine just has no snap. Holds the tune I have on it , has great compression an will idle for days.

I'm running the 41021 header and 2096 pipe, an I believe it is the 24067 carb. I have tons of mid to high end, just no bottom. It also temps great, 220-240 and good run times.

Any help or some baseline carb setting would be great, also it is a fairly new buku clutch that's working properly , an I can tune it out a bit with the clutch but it's still missing the bottom end.

Plus 4 is not a monster on bottom. But if you feel u have your tune right may need to try a little more tension on your clutch springs still. I did the same with my buku