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-   -   NOVAROSSI Engine thread.... (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/353301-novarossi-engine-thread.html)

hookem34 10-16-2012 07:11 PM


Originally Posted by Maximo (Post 11329955)
depends what you are after.... stock they are quite nice, they have good bottom/midrange and a reasonable top end...... Some people love them the way they are, others find them to be a little too mild....I cant speak for others but my modified version is a pretty substantial bump in power and RPM over stock....bottom end we gain a little, midrange we gain a fair bit and the top end of the modified absolutely sings compared to stock.......The modified version carries all the same characteristics as stock, except its a whole pile faster......... Some love them the way they are, others will like the modified version better..... just depends on how much juice you want .

I am in the "Pro Modified" camp:nod:

aussies1129 10-17-2012 07:05 PM


Originally Posted by Lille-bror (Post 11331347)
Temps between 100 and 110º C. With full tank it shall be 100ºC. When the tank is nearly empty the temp will climp to a little under 110ºC.
Ambient temp between 15 and 25ºC.
3 tank at idle speed.
The next 4 tanks with a little more throttle after each tank so you start the 7th tank at 50% speed. The last 8th tank with various RPM and no full speed runs for more that a second or so at a time.
Maybe an extra shim under the head.

This is how I do it.

Nice one so after 8 tanks you hit the track and take it easy until the gallon mark? Any one else use the run in bench for there nova engines keen for some input
Cheers

Lille-bror 10-17-2012 10:33 PM


Originally Posted by aussies1129 (Post 11337989)
Nice one so after 8 tanks you hit the track and take it easy until the gallon mark? Any one else use the run in bench for there nova engines keen for some input
Cheers

Yeps, after 8 gallons I hit the track with a little rich HSN. As Monty writes in his break-in bible, it should be possible to clear the jumps, but the engine must NOT be too lean. Start with turning the HSN out, until the engine runs 4-stroke down the straight. Lean the HSN just a little until it starts running 2-stroke. Then don't lean it anymore. The LSN should be tuned so it will have a steady idle for 10-15 seconds and then drops in RPM due to its a little rich. If the engine temp is under 100ºC I wrap the the head (the 2 upper cooling fins) to keep the temp of. Normally that isn't necessary.

Normally I run it easy until 2 liters if the balls hasn't droped. Then race tune.

One of my RC friends ran BTT engines until a team change. One of the engines had 6 liters on it, and the conrod was worn out... Why? Too low temp during break-in. Or that was what we concluded because he didn't leaned it enough to get the engine up to 100ºC even with the head wrapped.

Eivind E 10-18-2012 05:08 AM


Originally Posted by Lille-bror (Post 11338654)
Yeps, after 8 gallons I hit the track with a little rich HSN

Hehehe :D bit of a extended break-in wouldn't you say?
Would make it a €320 cost in fuel alone :D :D :D

aussies1129 10-18-2012 05:14 AM


Originally Posted by Eivind E (Post 11339115)
Hehehe :D bit of a extended break-in wouldn't you say?
Would make it a €320 cost in fuel alone :D :D :D

a simple typo but I would be running in all year if that was the case:lol::tire:
thanks for the input:nod:

NitroVein 10-18-2012 06:40 AM


Originally Posted by Eivind E (Post 11339115)
Hehehe :D bit of a extended break-in wouldn't you say?
Would make it a €320 cost in fuel alone :D :D :D

That´s just so he can sell them with good conscious as; "Just broken-in". :lol:

Lille-bror 10-18-2012 07:08 AM

You're so funny! :D

Minor detail... ToMato/tomAto ;)

BTW: I run 20% nitro for the first half GALLON ;):

Less nitro requires less compression so you don't have add an extra shim during break-in.
Less stress on crankpin and rod due to less powerfull combustion.
Easier to keep the temp high enough because high nitro percents cools the engine.
Lower fuel costs.

mjealey 10-18-2012 01:46 PM

Hey guys, just a question? Will the internals (crank, rod, piston, sleeve, head button) of a P5 fit inside of a Plus-4btt case? Or is the Plus-4 case completely too different than P5?

revo61 10-18-2012 03:31 PM

Who makes the best air filters? I see Kyosho's are high but hold up well to being cleaned and reused. Just curious what other folks use.

blade954 10-18-2012 03:38 PM


Originally Posted by revo61 (Post 11341088)
Who makes the best air filters? I see Kyosho's are high but hold up well to being cleaned and reused. Just curious what other folks use.

I have found the Xray with Lucky 7 air filters to be a great combo. I have a around 7 of these that i just replace when needed on race day. then wash and reoil when i get home and replace back in the zip lock bag for the next day.. Filters get used until i cant remove impregnated particles...then they get replaced with new ones.....

rcuser567345 10-18-2012 04:14 PM


Originally Posted by blade954 (Post 11341110)
I have found the Xray with Lucky 7 air filters to be a great combo. I have a around 7 of these that i just replace when needed on race day. then wash and reoil when i get home and replace back in the zip lock bag for the next day.. Filters get used until i cant remove impregnated particles...then they get replaced with new ones.....

+1 I use lucky 7, like them better than stock IMHO

houston 10-18-2012 06:22 PM


Originally Posted by mjealey (Post 11340722)
Hey guys, just a question? Will the internals (crank, rod, piston, sleeve, head button) of a P5 fit inside of a Plus-4btt case? Or is the Plus-4 case completely too different than P5?

Cranks yes , p/s set not interchangeable

Bore for sleeve different

bigjayjay1 10-18-2012 07:14 PM


Originally Posted by revo61 (Post 11341088)
Who makes the best air filters? I see Kyosho's are high but hold up well to being cleaned and reused. Just curious what other folks use.

I would bet if you tried advantage racing filter you won't try another plus they are cheaper then all the rest. if you don't like them PM me.

rcuser567345 10-18-2012 08:06 PM


Originally Posted by houston (Post 11341699)
Cranks yes , p/s set not interchangeable

Bore for sleeve different

The actual piston will though, I had it in my P5 with the P5 sleeve.

houston 10-19-2012 01:57 AM


Originally Posted by chopper82p (Post 11342126)
The actual piston will though, I had it in my P5 with the P5 sleeve.

Almost all nova engines are 16.26mm bore aside from boneytoe

P/s sets should be kept as a match for the most part


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