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Originally Posted by afr0sch
(Post 11328435)
CHOPPER HAS SPOKEN!
Can any one give me the measurement for a P5 crank pin new please. I want to get mine measured and see if mine is worn... |
Originally Posted by blade954
(Post 11328956)
LOL
Can any one give me the measurement for a P5 crank pin new please. I want to get mine measured and see if mine is worn... Recommend being leary of re-rod anything less than 4.92mm |
Thanks Monty ill get the machinest at work to run his magic over it
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Originally Posted by blade954
(Post 11329194)
Thanks Monty ill get the machinest at work to run his magic over it
i am real skeptical of that :lol: i have seen two cranks that have had that done , it worked but something just says "red flag" to me on that rick brake used to but might still turn down the crank pin round again and insert new rod bushingto match with the standard factory clearances , that worked pretty well also |
So, I disassembled the 21-4C that was giving me a hard time the other day, and there were a couple of minor suprizes.
One thing was there was a massive ammount of carbon buildup, in the ports there was what I'd describe as a .5 mil thick layer of crud with some actual lumps, on the rod there was a layer of carbon, in the combustion chamber/button head there was a thick layer of crud again around the circle around where the plug sits, and on top of the piston there was an unusually thick layer of crud which seemed to be sort of sandy/uneven in texture. The sleeve was stuck on the button head, and I mean really stuck, I couldn't get it off it. Is this normal? Then for the sake of it I measured the lower hole on the rod, and it was 4.99mm from side to side, and 5.05mm from top to bottom, does this say anything about use? Anyhow, I figure this engine seems to have seen some use? am I right? |
I'm looking for my first Nova engine. I've been looking at the 4btt for my mugen mbx6r. Is this a good one bone stock or should I get a modded one. Any of you guys have experience both stock and mod. Is it worth it
Thanks Steven |
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 11329406)
you gonna try the "insert" crankpin method?
i am real skeptical of that :lol: i have seen two cranks that have had that done , it worked but something just says "red flag" to me on that rick brake used to but might still turn down the crank pin round again and insert new rod bushingto match with the standard factory clearances , that worked pretty well also |
Originally Posted by Nsx838
(Post 11329846)
I'm looking for my first Nova engine. I've been looking at the 4btt for my mugen mbx6r. Is this a good one bone stock or should I get a modded one. Any of you guys have experience both stock and mod. Is it worth it
Thanks Steven |
Originally Posted by Maximo
(Post 11329955)
depends what you are after.... stock they are quite nice, they have good bottom/midrange and a reasonable top end...... Some people love them the way they are, others find them to be a little too mild....I cant speak for others but my modified version is a pretty substantial bump in power and RPM over stock....bottom end we gain a little, midrange we gain a fair bit and the top end of the modified absolutely sings compared to stock.......The modified version carries all the same characteristics as stock, except its a whole pile faster......... Some love them the way they are, others will like the modified version better..... just depends on how much juice you want .
Thanks Maximo. Can I pm you on what I want as I don't want this to become a war on motors. |
Originally Posted by Nsx838
(Post 11330047)
Thanks Maximo. Can I pm you on what I want as I don't want this to become a war on motors.
|
Originally Posted by Eivind E
(Post 11329746)
So, I disassembled the 21-4C that was giving me a hard time the other day, and there were a couple of minor suprizes.
One thing was there was a massive ammount of carbon buildup, in the ports there was what I'd describe as a .5 mil thick layer of crud with some actual lumps, on the rod there was a layer of carbon, in the combustion chamber/button head there was a thick layer of crud again around the circle around where the plug sits, and on top of the piston there was an unusually thick layer of crud which seemed to be sort of sandy/uneven in texture. The sleeve was stuck on the button head, and I mean really stuck, I couldn't get it off it. Is this normal? Then for the sake of it I measured the lower hole on the rod, and it was 4.99mm from side to side, and 5.05mm from top to bottom, does this say anything about use? Anyhow, I figure this engine seems to have seen some use? am I right? Dont know about the rod and crankshaft pin |
so running in some nova engines on a hudy bench anyone else got suggestions on the best methods and or time to run on the bench etc etc
cheers |
Originally Posted by Lille-bror
(Post 11330512)
My first thought: You are running a too cold plug or old Novarossi plugs (+1 year old)? Try a brand new C5 or C6 plug or even a O'Donnell 77T plug.
Dont know about the rod and crankshaft pin I'm just trying to evaluate whether this engine "has had it" or not. |
Originally Posted by Eivind E
(Post 11331061)
I was running a brand new P3, but the engine was a 2nd hand unit so don't know what people have been running before..
I'm just trying to evaluate whether this engine "has had it" or not. |
Originally Posted by aussies1129
(Post 11330999)
so running in some nova engines on a hudy bench anyone else got suggestions on the best methods and or time to run on the bench etc etc
cheers Ambient temp between 15 and 25ºC. 3 tank at idle speed. The next 4 tanks with a little more throttle after each tank so you start the 7th tank at 50% speed. The last 8th tank with various RPM and no full speed runs for more than a second or so at a time. Maybe an extra shim under the head. This is how I do it. |
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