No wonder, thanks

Anyone ?

I have a 2096 on mine right now that I am liking. 21 manifold with it in a truck. Good strong pull, plenty of top end, 10 minute pits... Going to try a 19 manifold this weekend just to try....

Can anyone tell me what would be comparable to a virtus power wise and what type of power characteristics does the virtus have

Ok thanks jerm that's what I'll try.like I said I have the 9901 pipe on it but I think I could could get a lil bit more power out of it with a different pipe .let me know how it works out with the different header ok . Thanks again .

Well see that's the thing...all these engines have particular characteristics.. there is no one super engine that has the best of everything.. there are some engines that have better bottom end and other engines that have better top ends.... There is no engine I know of that has the bottom end of my Tuned 8 port and still has the top end of my modified Paloma, no engine like this exists.... the Paloma peaks at 27000 RPM and the 8 port at 20000 RPM....both will spin past 40 000 RPM, both make the same HP figures, but the power curves are completely yin and yang to each other.... in a drag down the straight I would take my Paloma, and popping a short run jump I would take the 8 port... on a slippery track I would take the 8 port as it can pull a very low clutch stall and make finding traction much easier, on a grippier track I would clutch the Paloma up a touch and let is loose...As I say choose the engine according to what you are after and understand that no single engine has the best of everything, in order for a engine to have a crazy top end some bottom end has to be sacrificed and in reverse to have crazy bottom end some top end has to be sacrificed.,,Ideally we want the engines to be well rounded and for the most part all todays engines are, but even though all the engines are capable they each have their own personalities and powerbands...... Ultimately the 8 port has a unique powerband in that it makes crazy power at a very low RPM yet still retains the ability to spin past 40 K...It doesn't make as much power north of 25 000 as my Paloma but it still manages to hit the same RPM range.....

Rex legend 4
 

Will latest rex legend 4 out-rev 4bttX version? Any feedback / review of this engine? Quite expensive

It is great engine, a lot better than the Btt. It has lot torque and top ends. And very efficient. It is basically a Keep Off 4 with a new carb and a team shaft. Only thing I think is better is the mito. Not that much more and full cermaics and believe it or not is is faster and really smooth throught the upper power band. I love that motor. Both are great. I would not spend the money on an OS.

parts interchange
 

I have a older Rb bx-r just wondering if any Novarossi p/s will interchange with it. I posted in the rb section also but it's pretty dead on that page. Thanks in advance.

We got rained out so I didn't get a chance to get a compairison of the 2 headers.... Ill try again in July when I get back from vacation.

getting my first nova this week. really looking forward to trying one out.

p5xlt plugs?
 

So, I'm gonna expand my glow plug collection a little bit since all I have on hand is a couple c5's and c6's for the p5xlt.

I ordered a couple 97t's that were on sale at Amain, but wondering what else I should get.

77t? c7tgc? It gets pretty hot and humid in the summer, and towards the end of the racing season it can get pretty cold so I just want to have all my bases covered. I'm running 30/11 byron's and a 053 pipe.

C6 will be perfect but not sure bout OD

Have a lot of you used Avid bearings for front and rear bearings in your motors? If so,how good at they? Got a motor that needs rebuilding and got a hookup on some Avid ceramic bearings but wondering how good or bad they are. Asking bout Avid ceramic motor bearings specifically.

I haven't got my motor yet but Neil at the nitro shop uses the avid ceramics as an option for the rear bearing in his modified motors.

Has anyone had any experience with or have any knowledge of the 24066 carb - I believe this carb has the hi speed needle horizontal and am just wondering how this would effect tuning and such?

actually your engine doesn't have a Avid in it...I was too slow making my Avid order so instead I used a replacement Hudy ceramic bearing..... Its a more expensive bearing but its not your worry ! ...real deal swiss bearing in her now !!!

Oh cool. That's awesome, thanks Neal.

Please help with clutch/pipe/header!
I am running a modded 7 port Nova, so a lot of power in buggy!! maybe too much...
Im running 9886ss/41001 with a new BUKU clutch just at about factory settings maybe a hair softer on spring tension. The power comes on like a damn light switch even with the staggered spring settings and a controlled progressive throttle finger. I have to try really hard to get the power down and smooth thru out the powerband. Im thinking its the pipe/header combo but not sure. But I love the top end the combo gives me and the power everywhere else too but its a light switch which is awful for driving. Any other pipe combos to try for driveability AND torque/rpm? Thank you peoples!! :)

Odonnell 97T are the same as C6 plugs. To be honest unless you are running youre engine in an extreme climate change, theres no need to change heat ranges. Here in MN, we race when its 100+ out, to about 20.

Ive used the rear bearing, but would rather use the Nova double seal or the OS speed bearing in the front.

Yeah.. all I'm just going to quote Monty Houston.. "ooooh boooooiii..."

Modded 7 port nova, and then you run the craziest truggypipe setup :D
First you need to get rid of the 41001 manifold. That manifold shifts the powerband so that you get what you call the lightswitch effect, which would be great if you were running a standard BTT, but you've got a modded 7 port :D
Then you need to get rid of the 9886. That's also a crazypipe.

Basicly you need to get a more restrictive pipe and manifold setup which will smoothen out the power delivery. So you want the 41021/41029 manifold, 029 is the Mugen version, if you run a Mugen that is the one that fits.
Then you probably want to go to something like a 2096 pipe.

You might be wanting to go to 0.9 springs and plastic clutch shoes, and something like a 6 or 6.5 venturi, if you are on 8 now, 6.5 would probably help as a first step.

Basically i use this setup, only different is 8mm venturi. Guess u will need a steel flywheel s well

I run the 8mm venturi. I figured I could clutch the power "down" with a soft setting but maybe I need to change exhaust too and go back to a 7.5mm and 021 header like before but i hate to lose power :D... decisions decisions lol
thanks for the help!!

Have a new P5XLT...I had gotten some O'Donnell 97t after reading a bunch of good reviews on this plug with this motor. Then I went back a few years in this thread and saw that the Nova C6TGC were better suited for this motor...what is everyone thoughts?

I have been using the O'Donnell plug and runs great, the plug is cheaper and no problems! I used the Nova plug for break in and switched it out after break in, so I can not comment on how the plugs compare!

I just replaced mine after almost 2 gallons plus the break in ( maybe 2.5-2 3/4 gallons total)... I had a ghost flame after a pit stop and couldn't find anything else wrong so thru a plug at it. Looking at the old plug, it was a touch shinney brownish black from carbon build up/ oil burning on the inside of the cone and just at a touch grey on the coil but not distorted at all. Engine was running great before and continued to run great after the plug change.

Thank you very much for the comment...

While on the topic of the P5XLT...what are people running for a manifold and pipe on this motor? I'm new to this.

The track we run at doesn't have huge long straight aways, more corners to get out of with jumps to gain speed on. Looking for more Low/Mid range power.

Sounds like the 9853/41005 combo is what you're looking for.

There's also the cheaper 053 versions by Ofna and Dynamite.

I'm currently running the Ofna 053 in my mbx7t and have nothing bad to say about it. However, I've heard the Dynamite 053 pipe set is a little more rugged so you may want to go that route instead.

Been running the new ODonnell V2 plugs (#288T medium) for 2.5 months now and couldn't be happier- still on the same plug, hasn't flamed, broken or acted funny yet. Its very consistent and helps to provide tons of power!

reverse slide carb
 

hey guys, i hope you can clear up some of my confusion. i'm looking around at different nova engines and i see some list a reverse style carb. is it just the low side needle is on the other side or does the slide actually push in to accelerate or both?

From my understanding, its where the Idle/Air Gap needle is located. For us Off Road types and the way the engine sits in the chassis, the non-reverse carbs had the idle adjustment under the carb next to the flywheel. The "reverse" moved it to the top next to the head.

Someone correct me if Im wrong. ( I know you will anyways;))

You got it.

Yes, it is

Oh, well that's cool. I'm so new to nitro that what I thought was regular is the reverse style. Thanks for clearing that up for me. Just got my elite 5 all mounted up, can't wait to hit the track Saturday.

Nice, that looks to be a bad arse mill!! Really curious on its performance keep us posted :)

Fired it up tonight but was giving me a hard time. I think the idle gap was too small so. I opened it up some and put the needles back to factory. Kids went sleep before I could try it again. If the weather holds out I'm going to go to the track tomorrow and I know a few guys that run nova engine so hopefully get a race review for it.

Lean lsn 15-30mins, usuall.

Do not count needle turns...that ruins the O-rings on the needles...

the HSN should be flush and the LSN should be flush with a 0.6 mm idle gap....this is a ideal starting point.......

Also the engine was not broken in with that carb, so the needles were 100% at factory settings...which usually means pig rich with a slightly too large idle gap........very unlikely it needs an even bigger idle gap, the issue is most likely the LSN is way too rich for the engine to run........

I'll double check the idle gap but I couldn't get my .5 gauge in the opening. I was able to get it to idle but as it would transition from lsn to hs it would ping and pulse as if it was super lean then bog from the super rich hs setting before cutting off. Will try again today weather permitting.