Rex plus 8 from friend. Running on the buggy. Whats the setup for the conbusion head shim? Currently break in with 0.5 shim on conbusion head.

Hi everybody.
I'm rebuilding my P5XLT but the local dealer doesn't have the P/S set number 08036 but he does have 08036B. Supposedly this one is CNCed compared to the original one with is casted. What is better? Should I get the B or should I wait for the original to arrive?

what pipes do you already own ?

Nova always have .8mm head shims, something is wrong. Check d manual

Cnc will last longer according to d purpose by doing so

Thanks.

Hey guys, would a 12 tooth pinion be okay to run? My JP takes forever to get into its power band. I started with a 14t, then went down to a 13t today. The 13 is pretty good but I need to go down another tooth I believe, just checking first as I know most run 13 or 14t. Thank you!

Go down with your center diff gear.

The engine will then take even longer to accelerate, and have more top speed. If you want to change the center diff gear (Spur gear) then make it bigger.

Yes exactly. Actually that's precisely what I was thinking too, to change the spur gear as well (more teeth for more accel.) Thanks for the confirm guys! :tire:

Before you start jumping gears what is the engines setup ? what pipe, what manifold, what clutch and fuel ? and if a Buku clutch are the shoes staggered ? chances are the issue is with your setup and there should be no need to gear down like that..

I have a BTTE that lost compression this weekend. Does anyone know were to send it to get rebuilt? Is it even worth rebuilding?

Most modern engine have the minimum torque, might be tuning issue or pipe/manifold. Since have to gear down so much, better check on the tune

MP9 TKI 3
5/7/2 diffs
40/35 blue/orange shocks
TNS .21 JP Dirt 8mm restrictor
46/13 spur/bell
Orion 2058 pipe
BUKU komposite speed tune clutch- factory stagger
Bones 30/8
O'donnell V2 267T plug (med/hot)

Id be surprised if I had to gear down like that too (12t), why I'm scratchin my head... I think the 48 tooth spur will do the trick to be honest but I dont have 30 bux lyin around atm. Guys say to make sure to gear a JP properly so it gets into the meat of its powerband. Made sense, now I'm seeing first hand what they were talkin about. The engine has TONS of power everywhere, its fiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinally starting to loosen all the way up. A little over 2.5 gallons it took. The mid and top is excellent. The bottom end is a pain to deal with. I can tune the LSN to where I want it with sick bottom end from full to half tank, but then starts getting too lean for the bottom half so that approach is bunk. If I tune it the way it should be, then its too rich on bottom from full to half tank. Its like a lose/lose in that sense. Gearing down though has made the most significant difference as a step closer to what Im trying to achieve. Thanks for helping Neal! by the way, when on the leaner side, I can barely drive the buggy the engine is so stupid fast, wish you could see it! It feels like I'm running 40% no joke

take the stagger out of the clutch, end of story

I found the factory setup on the Buku to stall too low, which creates a lag (the shoes engage too early and don't allow the engine to accelerate smoothly).

Imo the stagger is good, but you need to make sure you don't have it set up so that the first 1 or 2 shoes engage early enough to create that lag. Try turning screw 0 in by 1 turn and screw 1 in by half a turn and see what happens.

Nova C5TGN off road plug
 

Anyone try this all conditions plug? A little expensive compare to c6

id like to try it, but cant find it for sale anywhere,

stagger is good if your looking to bleed off bottom end power, as a staggered clutch just behaves like a slipper......The more stagger you have the more power is bled off.. Marks engine is tuned to be top end oriented right from the factory so the last thing it will need is a stagger in the clutch...That engine is going to need all the help it can get down low and adding a stagger to the clutch is only going to further exasperate the issue...the best thing he can do is set all 3 shoes equal with a proper clutch stall, the performance down low will be much better then with any sort of stagger.

Thanks for the clarification :tire:

Lance at www.rcrenew.com will inspect it and give you an honest assessment.

Here's his form
http://www.rcrenew.com/order%20form.html

Thank you! That's exactly what I was looking for!

What clutch shoes are people running on their P5's? My car came with 2 aluminum and 2 carbon...

Just curious what others are running and what the differences are.

Alright Ill make them all equal to test. I believe there's only 2 possible culprits here (well technically 3- myself included :lol:) either the clutch or pipe. Im sick of driving around the track and having the bottom end load up while Im blipping the throttle, its like im not powering thru enough fuel in the in field. Then I get to a straight and the performance sux and is rich by that point. Its either clutch or pipe or both. Maybe Ill go back to the 9886. Ill test the equal shoe setting first. What other pipes work great on highly timed mills?

9853/41005 ....:)

What kind of car/ clutch?

If you are talking about a Losi, which is what I am running...
I have 2 set-ups. One for a loose to medium bite track that is 2 aluminum with gold springs and 2 carbon with green springs.
If the traction comes up from medium to a high traction track I go all aluminum with 2 green and 2 gold shoes. If it feels a little sluggish or I need more snap, I will run all gold springs.

But I mainly stay with the all aluminum, 2 gold/ 2 green set-up.

Load up sure is tuning issue, lean that lsn, is not the pipe

For sure it seems to be a tuning issue but the problem is if I lean any more then where its at right now it gets too lean at the bottom half of tank as I explained in a prior post so its not as easy as it sounds to fix. I guess Ill lean her a bit more and richen the HSN- the only thing I can think of to do at this point. I dont think its the pipe either I believe its more the tune for this issue, the other issue is the clutch and possibly pipe- i have to figure it out still.

Why havent you suggested this earlier!? Killin me Neal!

I have told you a 100 times you should get on the phone with me so I can go over setups and tuning...however you have to date ignored my requests and persisted on asking all your questions here on the forums instead....As I told you before there is too much information for me to type it all out and that until you take the time for a phone call my help/advice will be limited.

Basically your engine is a Nova P5 XLT with a MES exhaust...there are no other differences between it and a P5 except the over sized exhaust.. So therefore I am guessing the same pipe/header that works on the P5 will also work on that JP..That engine should perform like a P5 except it will have noticeably less bottom and a little more on top end....

How are Novas newest motors doing on the track? Getting back in the hobby and trying to decide which motor to get. Want something thas smooth from bottom to top. Not a torque monster. Last nova motor I had was the team plus 4. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

I hear ya, thing is if you remember I told you I dont have phone service. Its got a rear hard coated, balanced and filled crank, a precisely hand matched p/s as well as being tuned (get wat ya pay for). Its surely beyond an XLT. It would eat an XLT for breakfast. Just wish it was a little more aggressive down low- if it was it would be unbeatable. By the way I tried the 41001 today with equal tension and I definitely liked it. Only dam thing is the narrow header runs the pipe against the fuel tank burning into the tank so looks like no 41001.... :rolleyes: Have you tried the 41020? Id love to try the 41031 but its narrow so i'm afraid it would align the pipe against the tank too- ridiculous if you ask me that they cant make sure their headers all fit most cars and align the pipe far enough away from the fuel tank.... rant over. Anyway, that would be next on the list ;)

I ordered 75 of c5tgn ,i have them here

I'd take one too... don't see them on your site yet though

Can you not achieve that with clutch tuning, 1.1 springs or something?

Good plug, switch from old c5 n no need needle adjustment.

Sadly the crank was not hard coated nor was it balanced with Tungsten, it is essentially the same crank as a P5....The engine is like a P5XLT but with a MES style exhaust......On the very top end it would outrun the XLT, but down low and in the midrange my money would be on the XLT , no shame in this as the modified XLT is a absolute monster... IMO from here I would looking to go to a more aggressive clutch and trying a different header pipe combo.....I believe the engine is really designed to be a Buggy engine for use on open Euro style tracks....based off its timing profiles and exhaust to intake port volumes its going to be very top end oriented so I would be looking a longer manifold and a more torque oriented tuned pipe, a aluminum clutch would also help some as well....

edit.... If you wanted to to cover the shipping I would be willing to take that engine and test it on the dyno and see what pipe/header gives the best powercurve........shipping is $45 back/forth for DHL next day........

What is the difference between the nova p5. And top elite 5? And has anyone tried the top elite engines??

Thanks

I've never run the p5 nor do I know the differences however I do run one of the tns modified elite 5 engines in my truggy and for me it does it all. Tons of low end grunt and is still pulling hard at the end of the straight. Awesome motor.

Do some searching on Maximo's posts, he's been VERY active about that it has. I believe the Elite 5 has the billet piston, and the same crank as the Cinco? I could be wrong.

I have one as a back up, and have only finished breaking it in after getting it lapped. I have a Keep-off 4S that is my main motor. However, I will be racing today with the Elite 5 to get a good idea on how it runs.