Colder plugs usually give a little more power because they allow a sharper tune. Besides the filament, how much heat the plug body retains has an effect too.

If someone is having tuning issue with a bit of a wonky idle that kinda started out of know where would you guys check the bearings or the fuel tank/line first
Engine has never been opened after sealing, all exhaust seals are new. Engine ran like a clock untill we made one of our jumps close to 40 feet of distance and i cased it a few times. The block has no visible cracks and no fuel/dirt build up indicating a leak. Slight bit of weeping on the front bearing, not enough to notice untill you pull the flywheel.

The clutch itself or a bad clutch bearing?

you try cleaning out the high speed needle intake?

coulda cracked the filter or dislodged some debris and sent it through the carburetor..... it happens .... more often than most think

I think your onto something monty, i did forget to cap the inlet when i pulled the motor to check the clutch that day and it was dusty as hell.

Anyone know a reasonable temp range for a Paloma .21 . From what I was told she went rich basically as she finished up breaking in at the track. Temps went down a lot from about 269 to about 210 it seemed like so looking to start doing a bit more race tune but not sure what are normal temps to look for.

Also, any suggestions on a decent temp gun I am all ears.

well cleaned to carb and checked all the orings, still idles all over the place.tried a different pipe and a few manifolds. Its gotta be the fuel system,

what brand of tank ?

Try and spray brekaeclean on the front bearing. You may have an airleak or worn out bearing. just a short burst.

need advice choosing nova engine here
keep off
virtus off
mito 40
mito 70
mantra

best performance based on u guys ever experience,,

​​​

Only tried the Mantra, good smooth engine.

Hi guys,
Just curious if the 41001 manifold from ND is the same as Amain as they look completely different?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/novarossi-41001-medium-off-road-manifold-nvr41001/p176693
http://www.novarossidirect.com/41001_p_2618.html

Also, I was curious if the Paloma 21 ltd is still a good deal at 159$ or do the prices usually decrease after the racing season is over?

Thanks,

I am curious if they still have more as I heard prior to purchase there were only a few left and they weren't getting any more.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...ede2dfe8f2.jpg

soo excited
perhaps will be my best friend for next race season. question here, which venturi should be use? and how many tanks for factory break engine before go to race tuning? what method theyre using on factory breakin, is it EBIS?
thx guys

How is it better, the Paloma is doing over 11 minutes and has lots of power according to this thread and post #74
https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad...edition-5.html
And seems to be running for 7+ gallons.
Is the rolling able to do 12-13 minutes?
My track is technical with no long straights and running a buggy.

Thanks

41005/9901 makes for a fairly easy to drive setup and super easy to tune,41001/9901 makes it agressive and quite punchy. 41021/9901 gets a decent runtime but feels a little flat. 41001/2096 i really like but gets a little less runtime than the 9901 setups.
my buddy has the 41021/2096 setup on his in buggy and it seems to tame it down quite well to run in buggy

keep off parts
 

Hi

I have an old keep off 21-4 engine. I've heard that I can use mito 4 parts. Looking in the exploded views the rod, the piston pin and the front bearing are the same. Anyone know if I can use the piston, the sleeve and the rear bearing?

thanks

Can i remove shims for from the Mantra? If so which one?

I wouldn't drop it more then 0,05 mm with a stock head, so you should replace a 0,2 mm shim with a 0,15 mm.

Hey guys, in the process of building a new Truggy that I am going to make it an on-road truck. Stiff suspension, thick diffs, modded engine, Alum C-cups, tonnns more. I am in the market for a new engine, just not sure what I am going to pick up. It's going to be a drag/on-road Truggy, but not going to just throw handling out the window just for some extra MPH on the radar. I need suggestions on what to put in there for sheer poweeeer and I want the reliability of a Novarossi. Should I be looking at the on-road .21's or should I be looking at the .28's for the weight of a truggy? Thanks guys, hope someone can point me on the right path.

Hello
And the following friends have a Novarossi Engine Rebrand (RB Products).
After a few years with the engine stopped, yesterday to remove the screw that holds the carburetor to the block, I split the screw head, and now where can I find a screw that of in my RB, a Novarossi screw is compatible?
And to dismantle the carburetor the rubber that has the left side in the engine simply fell apart in two, if you buy the rubber Novarossi gives in my RB?


Thank You

Yes, the screw is standard on all novarossi models, you can also try to get an M2.5 screw which it actually is.

[QUOTE = Roelof; 15291425]. Sim, o parafuso é padrão em todos os modelos Novarossi, você pode também tentar obter um parafuso M2.5 que ele realmente é [/ QUOTE]

Thanks Roelof, I'll try to buy here in a tool house.
And in relation to the needle rubber of the carburetor LSN has to be even Novarossi right?

Thank You
*

The O-rings are also the same. In case of emergency on the track I will cut a thin slice of a fuel tube what works perfectly as an O-ring

Alright so I'm trying to get my 28-8 completely tuned. I thought I had it dialed until today I took it it and got it up to temp and made several high speed passes. The idle was pretty much a 3 step instead of a 2 step. If I had let it come in and sit for 4 seconds or longer after a WOT pass, it would be loaded up and kind of sluggish once I hammered the throttle for the first couple of feet. From my knowledge, I should be able to bring it in and let it idle for 10 or more seconds and still get a clean pull unless it's an excessive amount of time idling. So I leaned my LSN and backed off on the idle screw. My idle gap is somewhere between .5 and .7. I eventually got it to where it could idle longer than 5 seconds without loading up and still having a clean launch with a very light trail of smoke after hammering it until about the midrange it started to have a more noticeable smoke cloud. Am I going in the right direction or am I possibly going away from the tune? The idle seems to be getting closer to a 2 step at the current tune.

Reset LSN, lean out HSN. I have a feeling you were very lean on the low end and super rich up top, which can cause false positives per say. But, could also be an air leak from the sounds of it. Guessing it's not your brand new 28-8 (if it's new), so give your fuel lines a check. Best of luck, probably just a tuning issue.

hey brother. That's amazing runtime and that track isnt small. 11 mins is great for any motor, and its 7 port motor. I am curious about that motor. What plug do u run in it and do you use 25% to man VP fuel? How many gallons do u have on it so far? I am looking for a motor that will last 6 or 7 gallons at least.

Hello to all, I have a doubt which is the exhaust and Novarossi manifold the best for Fuel-Economy? or specific to Fuel Economy?

Thank you

2096 will do you well sir.

damn. Where the heck do you buy a karma for $90 ?! LOL. btw.. what is the double bend 2050 manifold?

Novarossi launches a NEW engine
NOVAROSSI BX3

And the Manifold

Thank You

NOVAROSSI BX3

BX3 - NOVAROSSI WORLD
http://www.novarossi.it/2012/images/...i/nova/BX3.pdf

It is the header that came with the OS 2050 pipe and header set. I have a brand new 2050 header and pipe.