What is the difference between the 15010 and 15009 cranks? I have a P5 and I stripped the clutch bell screw, when I drilled it out I didn't leave enough "meat" to get the screw out. I have an elite 5 with a damaged p/s but the crank is good. Trying to figure out if I can put that crank from the Elite 5 into the P5.

Anyone have experience with the mito-7?

my mito 4 just flat out hauls .it blows the doors off my brothers ofna 7 port. The mito 7 will even be faster an will have good top end .

My mito holds a very good tune as well iv yet to tune it when running in diffrent kinds of weather. I just pre heat an take it easy then i open her up.

do any of you have experience with running a fioroni clutch? I plan to try one out but it only comes with a clutch nut it looks like. I would need shims and a collet for Novarossi sg crank (Legend .25 in 4.0 truggy). What collet should I buy? A novarossi?

Doing break-in on a Mantra here after doing some touch up on it, and I have to say it's been one of the easiest engines to date, not missed a beat yet.
I'm still running it rich on break-in fuel, so too early to say exactly how it will be in the end. But so far it really gets out of the hole nice, it just hooks and pulls. :)

I have the same to say about an older P5. LoL. Not that old though - I think it’s a 2015 model. Anyway.. Waiting to get a 41032 to really see how she’ll be.

I love Novarossi engines though. Uber painless to run and tune.

are the carbs the same on all Novarossi engines? looking to switch since their prices are not crazy anymore

Most come with the 69 type carb, some use the three needle 68 type and a few of the cheaper engines use the 65 type. The 69 type can also come with two different LSN Length and tapers. I dont think any carbs still use the short needle. The 65 type has a 7mm under bore and only one oring on the LSN I wouldnt recomend running it.

Which carb does the P5XLT come with?

The P5XLT has the 24069 type. Two needle 9mm carb.

On the Mantra, which way does the button go. One side a 1 dot, the other has 1 dot and a arrow.?

It is a full symetric part so actually it does not matter how it is placed. But the arrow is a mark to face the exhaust and if there is no arrow than the dotes will be the mark to face the exhaust.

I'd love to know this too!! How come its so quiet with these engines? Seems to be a better deal than a stock novarossi

DANIELE IELASI is guy that modifies or does custom build of Novaorossi engines. They are great engines I have a GT 5 port engine and an 7 Port On road engine and .12 onroad engine. They are fast and get great fuel consumption. I have not bough any off road engine. But I would not hesitate doing so. I have turned to on road playing. Very much worth the money.
wallacemotorsports.net/ and I am not a sells man either.

To answer your question Yes easy to tune. They are just screamers.

Alright so decided to give this nitro thing a full go. Ended up with a 1/8 buggy and bought the paloma engine since it was on sale and i am used to how the 1/8 E buggies hit hard on the low end. And again, it was on sale :)

Anyway, the break-in was really tough using Adam Drake's method (not saying his method was tough, just the overall break-in experience was tough). The engines factory needle settings were not the ones mentioned on the website. The engine would not fire with those out of the box settings and was really tough to get through break-in with the recommended factory settings. Now, part of this may be that I was using break in fuel which maybe its make up needed leaner needles (this is what I saw) as when I went to the regular race fuel (2 tanks) it seemed much easier after break in getting it to fire.

I also had a glow plug from the factory (the one installed in the engine) that would have air bubbles and fuel come out of it. With one fresh one and no issues, break-in was still tough, but we got through it

Is there some trick in the future concerning these engines to watch for (or just novarossi in general) for break -in?

I am new to the nitro world so if there are any guides I can print to have on hand for tuning feel free to post.

I find Novarossi engines pretty easy to run and operate - including breaking them in. The needle settings out of the box are too rich. They almost always need to be leaned out to get the engine to idle and get it to run clean (and not 4-stroke) on the top end - oily fuel or not. I break in with 14% oil and drop 1% for each quart until I get to -1% where I stay. Not a single issue getting the engines running or tuning. Heck, I have 2 gallons on the stock OEM plug in my Legend 28-8RT.

Inexperience usually involves some struggle. The learning curve is steep without any prior knowledge.

search the forums, there is one for engine break in and one for engine tuning. Something like nitro tuning Bible, or similar. Very helpful.

The problem with those guides is that the information is a bit inaccurate. Not to mention the fact so many guys think the factory settings are break-in settings - which they are NOT. Lean the damn needles down so the engine will run. If it is hard to start, floods, etc. Lean it down! I’m not saying lean it so it is too lean, but just *JUST* lean enough so it will idle on its own and start easy.

And don’t idle it more than needed. Idling isn’t good for them despite popular belief.

The tuning Bible is a sticky at the top of the off road nitro engine forum

Hey man thanks for the input. Can you compare these to other modified engines you have run in the past?

yeah right now it seems to go good with the regular fuel.

So here is a question then, on the nova engines what do you recommend leaning out first for break-in?

Being new with the 3 needles just want to make sure I am looking at the right one to start with.

Also, any of you had an glow plugs from the factory that seem to want to let in air? I had this with the factory one, but a replacement one was fine so curious if there something to look for on the plug itself to know you got a bad one.

All of my fresh engines do start and run with factory setting and were always on the rich side. My experience is that with a tight pinch the idle need to be raised

With a preheated engine, the taper is relaxed. I’ve never needed to raise the idle gap significantly to get an engine to idle. Every engine I’ve ever owned were set too rich from the factory. I would preheat to 200F and after running a 1/4 tank find the head temp dropped to 150-170F - which is too cold IMO. I am not one of those guys that wraps the head to artificially hold heat in. I run an oilier fuel initially and adjust the needles to get the engine to run at operating temperature. This has served me well for 20 years. But like everything Nitro related, everyone will have different experiences and advices. I advise based solely on my own experience and what has worked for me. I haven’t had an engine fail on me yet and most of the engines I’ve had were cheap RTR jobs.

thanks, got this paloma due to the cheap price, nice power delivery, hoping nitro this time around goes well!

thanks for the info!

messaged novarossi about what we noticed about the plug.

What O.S. plug do you recommend that is the same in performance as the CT06 plug?

Getting one bad plug here or there can happen. But 4 at one time? From Novarossi? That’s incredibly hard to believe. Your retailer should have exchanged them for you. No way would I personally EVER recommend any plug for a Novarossi other than a Novarossi plug. I think it bad advice to suggest a super hot plug either. Besides ruining the head, you’ll waste fuel and throw away free power.

I haven’t gotten any CT06 plugs yet as I’ve not run out of my first set of C6TGC plugs, and I probably won’t need to for a long time. I’m getting 2-3 gallons from one plug including breaking in from new.

Don’t give up on Nova plugs. Make your retailer that you got the supposed bad plugs from make it right and replace the bad plugs if in fact they’re bad. One thing I’ve found is Novarossi plugs (at least the C6TGC which are supposed to be the same as the CT06) like a little more heat from the battery. Meaning your glow driver needs to be in good condition with a strong battery. If the battery is old and/or weak, it won’t light the plug for crap.

Figure also that the warranty on a new engine will be voided if you use off brand glow plugs. Something else to consider.

I got 1 more spare here lol so it will be what I keep around for now. For me the plug is from Novarossi direct USA that came with my Paloma engine , so looking to see if what they want to do about it, if anything. I'll actually be down where they are located in a few weeks here too.

Hello egobrkr,

As far as I know, the difference between O.S. and Novarossi Plug is at the taper end near the filament. The angle of taper is different.

Cheers.. :)

good stuff! trying to decide to hit up Pingree this weekend or that other race Rick and others are going to since Pingree moved the date.

I have swiched between them and never had issues, I personally think the issue is overrated.

Isn't it that the conical surface is different in size, so one plug might deform the head if you tighten the glow plug hard. Then the other glow plug will have a much smaller area to seal against.
Anyhow, the OS plugs is usually way to hot anyhow, I usually get more tuning issues and a lot less performance with hot glow plugs. Even the Novarossi is on the hot side, but each to his own I guess. :)