Paloma gold head piston?
 

Hi guys, lost the manual for my gold head paloma.
Anyone got the piston part#? Can't seem to find it online. Thanks

PALOMA.21 - NOVAROSSI WORLD

does this help you out?

I saw that but I though the blue was different than the gold head. Is the piston the same? Thanks

nope the gold head paloma has a different bore and stroke. the piston and sleeve i think is from the 21-7 fms from the mid-late 2000s and was just a way for nova to use up old stock

[QUOTE=srt4johnny;15469398]It is wron to think the amount of ports has something to do with milage and power.

[left][QUOTE=Roelof;15470267]

there is a lot to consider with ports and stroke
generally less ports has more torque..
long stroke generally is more bottom end motor.
but there is a lot of other factors that determine a motors characteristics.
I prefer long stroke in truggy and square stroke in buggy..
truggy I run rolling and now testing the p5 for power and mileage in truggy to see if it can hang with the "higher" end motors. so far so good for a 160 dollar motor.
in buggy I like the mantra and mephisto.. both square stroke
but you can ask the which motor is best a 100 times and get a 100 different answers..
go to the novarossi website and browse the current motors and look at the stroke. rpm and ports.. you will start to see the difference in all the motors. hope this helps you out a little on your selection

track dependent and weather but generally 9-10:30 on the rolling
the p5 was still rich and a tick pinch yet but a solid 10 mins so far.. changed the header to a shorter one to try and get a tick more top end.. if the rain holds out I will know sat night on how it pulls.

[QUOTE=srt4johnny;15470672]I have writen this many times but OK....
With most engines timings are the most important thing that makes an engine. A low timed 9 port will never run that good as a high timed 3 port engine. Novarossi makes 3, 4, 5, 7, 8 and 9 port engines and all have their own kind of feeling and performances. This is not by the amount of ports but mainly by the configured timings.

OS have won many large races with a 3 port engines against many 5 port and even 7 and 8 port engines. But OS had always made only a 3 port engine and was configured to the max, now they have also 5 port engines. Novarossi has them al although the 9 port is only for onroad.. With Novarossi the price is making the performance, low priced engines have most of the time 3 ports but are low timed. High priced engines do come in all kinds of ports and do perform on a higher level, they only do feel different. Even the difference is not set by the amount of ports but by the combinations of timings (intake, exhaust and crankshaft opening/closing)

Stroke is also such a thing. Yes, long strokes will give more bottom torque but again, if it is bad timed it will never give that power as a good timed short stroke. All is just a commercial thing making us customers wanting to buy the latest and the fastest with the most crappy commercial story behind it.

Most of the drivers want to see the work on an engine thinking that those are the things to make it fast like the amount of ports, teardrops, hand grinding, all kinds of cuts, special backplates etc. Only a good timing is never seen by the eye, it can only be meassured.

Another thing making an engine is matching expanding materials. if the expanding rate of the sleeve and piston do not match well you will loose performance. The cheaper Novarossi engines have pistons of a cheaper material. Not that they do not work but the high priced engine has better choosen materials giving a better performance with a same timing.

It's an old myth that long stroke increases torque.
And as said before the number of ports doesn't matter much at all, it can make a Small difference in how efficiently it is packing the cylinder without loosing to much out the exhaust.
And as said before, excessive grinding is usually done to sell or because they don't know any better.

The Rolling is nice, though mostly aimed at bottom end torque with really mild timing, but for most tracks it should have enough of a top end with the right manifold and pipe.

Hey guys,

I finally ran my ST-RR with the N21BF Limited after sitting since about 2011-12.
Fired up right away and ran for about 2-2.5 tanks until I realized my two old hump packs were not lasting as long as they used to so I couldn't run anymore.

Is it common to have to retune after sitting so long?
It was running super rich when I first started it. I was making small adjustments here and there and it was running stronger and starting to hold idle better but I'm still going to have to make adjustments once new hump packs come in. Was watching temp and at one point hit 290* so I richened up the High end a little. Most of the time running was between 200-240 with some good full throttle rips.
Would the plug have anything to do with it? I use to run McCoy 8 which is now discontinued so I grabbed some Dynamite MT .18-.46 Medium plugs. Figured I would try them out for the price and they say they run cool.

Maybe you have to take out the main needle and clean the needle and housing. Old oil will dry up and create issues. The plug should not be an issue, if your fuel is also that old, that can be an issue, be sure to shake the can very well or get something new.

Ok I'll try the needle.
For the fuel I went with new fuel. I had a little left that was that old but didn't want to even try it.

Thanks

question on odonnell plugs used with novarossi engines, in particular the Paloma gold head but not sure if matters in general.

What odonnell plugs are comparable to the stock plug that comes with the Paloma.

Reason I ask is I got a variety of odonnell plugs here, figure maybe they could be used but trying to confirm.

9901 pipe and 41021 header was the best combo I came up with also..

Hello my friends, I'm here with problems with a Novarossi Mantra.
I bought the new engine in the box, what happens and I follow what Novarossi says in the manual.
And I can not get the engine to make a deposit to the idle, so I'll fire the igniter glowplug engine soon.
The only way the engine does not go down and use the embedded glowplug igniter, I already made two deposits so idle, but no solution.
I'm using a hot air gun to warm up the engine and start working at 100 degrees.

Thank You

I suggest puting the needles back to stock and put in a new plug.

The needles is stock factory don´t tuch in needles and the glowplug is new CTO6.

I believe he's using something to translate, makes it hard to understand. But he's in Europe, so it's Celsius.
They are usually set so you can start them from the factory, then they always needs to be adjusted anyhow, so it's anyone's guess where they'll end up.

I think he is referring to 100 degrees in Celsius.

I just broke in my Rolling this past Sunday. I have the 41021/9901 pipe combo and am using an aluminum 3 shoe clutch with I believe 1mm springs. Started from factory settings and slightly adjusted low speed needle and idle screw to hold idle. I pre heated to about 190* F using a heat gun before starting. Then used heat gun to maintain temp between 180*-200*. Used the method below: