I can get Byron RACE Gen2 fuel, is this a better choice?

The top of the piston where the 2 x rings are is OK, there are no scratches on the corner/edge of the top of the piston.

I had to use vice grips to get the sleeve out, I scratched underneath the lip, is this useless now?

Yea, now the seal between sleeve and case is compromised. Byron fuel is one of the best fuels in the world. Buy a new nova and feed it some Byron fuel.

next time pry up the sleeve just use a nice flat blade screw driver, any scratches etc etc is not good use a heat gun on the block keep your clutch on and put a cable tie thru the exhaust that will lift the sleeve. in Australia try either nitro-x or amain fuel be sure to have a small bit of caster in there should help, most guys on here break there engines down either after ever meet or second meet give it a good clean check for any foreign objects check bearings and relube with after run or atf and rebuild ready to go. good house keeping on your engine goes along way!!!

If you don't remember this statement from Novarossi '12:

http://novarossi.com/2012/index.php/...statement.html

do you use a comp heater ? to me it looks like the oil iny our fuel has turned to glue......this will happen to some fuels when using a comp heat

Poor lil engine....

Any update on testing the new carbs?

I did use a comp heater maybe 5 times when the engine was new, then was using a heat gun for a while engine was still new. The first 2-3L was using a heat gun.

Once I get the break-in complete on my new mill I'll be doing some back to back testing with 24069(standard carb) vs 24067

Who are probably getting it for nothing or paying very little for it...same for their engines.

Another good fuel to use is either Nitrotane or VP Powermaster (both the same).

Now I only go by what I have read on here, but this wouldn't happen to be the same VP fuel that people on here have been saying there's been bad batches of which have ruined their engines....?

If so, then I don't think other people should be recommending it for use..

I dont think so, I did a bit of a search and couldn't find any bad reports on it. I do recall some talk about their old blend some years ago, the fuel that was clear.

I ran the vp before the importer decided to order it with more oil, that's when I switched to the nitrotane as it's the same mix as the normal vp (30%, 9% oil)

This thread is only two months ago:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-...el-issues.html

It's only a couple of pages down on the forums here.

I will never ever run some weird fuel again. Byron's, Odonnel or Sidewinder that's it. I've destroyed too many engines bc I was trying yo save some money, ended up costing more after having to replace engines. No one will convince me otherwise, unless they are supplying me the engines and fuel.

I am planning to buy a Keep off 4 port for my next season. Are any special tools required for maintenance on the engine specifically bearing. I have the Hudy one.

Also I am moving from P5XLT. So is there anything I must know or is this regular Nova stuff? Thanks in advance for the help.

Not sure but I believe the same inserts on the Hudy tool as the p5 they were for the BTTA. IMO the 4port is a little tougher to tune but worth it for the 10min runs which are important in todays races. Also make sure your not too rich on the top cause it will cause in of the straight/coming off wot flame outs especially when less than 2gallons thru it. Other than that good break-in and keeping an eye on the bearings you should be fine! I run a HES Fusion X5Lfm its a 5port that has a lot of the btt internals and can get 10 mins with Houstons love or I would be running a 4 port also. Good Luck!

Yeah I stay away from VP after my fresh case of fuel in the summer cause I had two rear bearings go out from less than a 1/2 gallon of the case sold a gal when I got it (before I knew it was bad) his brand new keep-off rear bearing did exact samething as mine started getting noisy and having clutch problems from crank wobble luckily I found the issue before they came apart replaced bearings + fuel got Byrons 30/9. Almost cost me $1000 but did cost $200 to fix both and I have ran them ever since winning races and not a single issue since switching to Byrons. I can say all companys make mistakes and I ran VP for a year without any failures but just didn't seem as smooth running and had a lean bog zone that was tough to get right tune for 10min runs. Anyway I am not bashing VP but I have seen all I need to keep me away and tune was sooo different had to lean my needles a ton when I switched so better mileage with same power! Get the 30/11 I would have but we went in as a Club to get a deal and have it made right before shipping and a lot of guys run OS or another Chinese mill so us Nova guys had to run the 9% cause that's what most wanted. Also I believe using a couple drops of lube booster(pure castor) for after run oil is OK and shouldn't swell silicone.

Would speed blend from odonnells be better?

yes

add 1oz of castor oil

Where can I get some good castor oil?

Is bc-175 benol from klotz any good?

If I needed to get a new sleeve, would i need to get a new piston/rod as well so its a clean fit?

Yes, but I would do break in on the old rod, then replace the rod with a new one.

Honestly by the time you get a new piston sleeve etc best just to grab a new engine the p5 is about $200 bucks awesome in buggy and truggy!

You can't get a sleeve without a piston. I would hit up E-bay, Jenny's R/C. They part out plus 4 BTTA's. I broke a backplate screw in my case last summer and got a new case with both front and rear bearings for $55. I'm sure you will pay some shipping to get it to Sydney, but well worth the look.

Which Power Plant for Truggy
 

@ Houston,
you seem to be real savoy on the nova engines.
I'm looking to switch from OS to Nova. the last time I ran a Nova Rex based I had bad luck.
I will be looking for a motor for my truggy.
any help on a power plant would be great and a pipe and header combo.
thanks in advance.

I'm no Houston, but have run novarossi for the past 3 years I could suggest if your on a budget the p5xlt say with the 9853/41001 manifold combo
Or if your happy to spend then go bonito with that same combo you could also try the. 9886 pipe. I haven't run the keep off 21-7 but my last race meet a guy had it in his mugen and it was on par with the bonito
Or I am fairly sure Houston could do a ballistic mod on a p5?
Cheers

thanks so much.
I will look into the bonito. I read back 200 pages ago that the bonito was not big on the bottom end but then again it might have been the wrong pipe and manifold or tuning or clutch..

The bonito does not have the snap of a .25 or .28. But, the powerbands of the bonito and keepoff 7 are very linear and are my favorite truggy engines. The keep-off 7 feels just like the bonito, with slightly more power.

Also look at the Fusion engines. They are made by Novarossi.
Fusion X7
Fusion X5L

I'm looking at the Keep off 7.
what pipe and manifold ?..

Can anyone tell me what parts i need to replace during a rebuild of a 4BTTS? Its done about 10Litres. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The engine runs fine just want to pep it up a bit.

BTTS
 

It mostly just needs to be cleaned at this point.

If your keen you could do a rod change and I would definitely change out the
Front bearing and check the rear if it's not smooth change that aswell
Cheers

Any info on the new Virtus 7 port coming out?

I'm with these guys. 10 liters is good and broken in. You could keep on running it.

If you like to be sure, a rod change is always good insurance (especially if it was really tight at break-in) and a thorough inspection of the bearings with replacement if needed couldn't hurt.

in off road?

Yeah Houston.

I saw Adam Drake run a Virtus at Capital City Raceway. I am not sure if it was 7 or 9 ports. CLIP

I have a Truggy running Beat 4 engine with 9901 pipe and 41021 header. Would 2096 pipe with 41021 header be any different?