Hard anodized...might be cool if done right. What details do you have on the process, color, etc? Anyone remember 10 years ago when the factory offered hard coat pipes? And then there were the aftermarket process with a black coating on the pipe.

Factory Hard Coat Pipe...
http://home.comcast.net/~rc-driver/R...052008_001.jpg

After market black looked great when new...
http://home.comcast.net/~rc-driver/R...52008_001a.jpg

But unfortunately once the black coated pipes were a gallon or so used, the black turned to bronze...
http://home.comcast.net/~rc-driver/R...052008_001.jpg

Looking for some opinions.... for the keep-off -4, what restrictor has been successful that is a good compromise between power and fuel economy?

I ran the 5.4mm restrictor but it seemed to affect the power too much... so much so that I had a hard time making a double on a track. The next day, on another track, I switched to 6.5 and it was noticeably better from the power perspective, and seemed to be able to pull off 10 minutes if I was cutting it close. I was just curious what others have been using as a balance. I was going to try the 6 to see if it was any better.

Thanks.

I personally like the 6.5 on a track that has 35-40 second laps with layouts where you can use a little extra power. I've also used a 6mm and felt the difference in power, and the tuning window gets smaller with smaller venturis. I'm also right on the edge of 10 minute pits (I easily pitted at 10 minutes at Nitro Challenge, but on my loose home track, 10 minute pits are cutting it close).

I started using other methods to get runtime without having to go to a smaller venturi such as making sure you are very close to the legal fuel limit of 125CC, I use an exhaust cooler (not sure if I've noticed a huge difference on this one, but it seems to give me an extra 20-30 seconds), and the big one is throttle control, a good tune, and the right pipe/header combo. If I'm limiting wheel spin and I have a good crisp (but not too lean) engine, then 10 minutes with a 6.5 can be done fairly easily on most tracks.

any special considerations breaking in a BTT-A? pretty straight forward on tuning?

about to get a p5 for my buggy and wanted opinions on a few things.

1)for pipe would the 2096 or the 9901 be the better pipe with the 41021 header for a more smooth power band, im still a newer driver so I don't need the ridiculous top end just yet.

2) for break in what venturi should i use- the one I plan on running or is there a better recommendation (ie. no venturi or smallest venturi), I plan on using the heat cycle method.

3)and what is a good venturi to start with

You will hear a few different opinions from different groups but imo one of the most suited pipe combos for that engine or almost any engine in buggy is 2096/41021 , use 8mm for first 1/2-1 gallon of fuel (more air , more fuel, more oil) then I would recommend a 7mm restrictor unless you wanna try a 6.5mm up to you

Just my opinion , I have been known to actually race rc cars though ;)

I just picked a P5 and will be breaking it on this weekend. I have the 9901/41021 combo. This was the answer I was kinda looking for. Thanks!

+1 this is exactly how I am running mine. The new CLIO makes great power and is pretty impressive.

What about the new clio p5 in truggy Ty?

ThANKS FOR THE HELP

Absolutely...very good truggy engine. In my experience the 2096/021 combo has worked well on various types of tracks in a truggy.

There is only one way to do Hard Anodizing "right" and that is to leave it uncolored/undyed and naturally gray like the factory-finish pipes you remember. It's a smooth gray/lacquer gray depending on the alloy. That color is just a byproduct of the process and will always maintain that color tone.

You can dye a HA part black, but the dye eventually leaches out like you saw/experienced before. Because the cell structure is smaller/tighter in the TypeIII process, the dye doesn't stay in as well as regular Type II process (colored anodizing). Thus you get the "bronze" look since the natural color is basically ergal gray.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-sets-new.html

I would avoid the 2096 in truggy as it is generally a buggy pipe for mid to top-end power and would soften your bottom end too much. My recommendation would be to go with a 9901 or 9853 instead.

Guys I am trying to figure out what size bearings the mugen BT4 and BT5 use front and rear?
From my research it looks like the BT4 Uses the 17011 Front 7x19x6.3 and the, 16800 14x25.8x6 Rear
The BT5 I can't seem to find an exploded view on so I looked at the view of the P5XLT and it shows the same bearing setup as the BT4 but I know that cant be right because the front bearing in that motor looks nothing like the front bearing in the BT4. If I am correct I believe both motors use the 16800 rear bearing but please correct me if I am wrong. I am trying to place an order so I have the bearings on hand just in case one goes.

the front bearing will work, its a patented design by novarossi, just be careful when putting it in the engine, because its a 6.3 the inner race protrudes, and you will want to put the force on the outer race not the inner to insert it..


not sure of rear bearing size

just found the exploded view that i have.. its the same rear bearing

Same in both engines for sure

Can anyone confirm the diameter/pitch on a P5 shaft. I was having a hard time getting the flywheel on and noticed two threads on the shaft are rolled a bit. Can't find a file or thread file to clean it up, so was going to see if I can get a die nut tomorrow.
To me it looks like 7mm x 0.9 <--- not a typical pitch.

EDIT: so I found a file a file at work and just cleaned up the threads. What a PITA! Weird way for the threads to be rolled - from the case to the end of the shaft. Must of been missed during QA.
So I got everything installed and started break-in today...wow the LSN was really set rich. Had to lean a bit to get around 200 while on the box. This is my first nitro break in. Looking forward to getting the P5 on the track.

I saw video on Clockworks website about placing a washer in front of the front bearing press because of the protrusion of the outer race, I also use the hudy bearing tool, so I went today and bought a hardened steel washer for this purpose. I am glad I can use the same bearings for both motors, less parts for me to keep in the box for sure. Thanks guys I appreciate all the help. On a side note I have just recently switched to these motors from running OS, and damn the BT5 is smoothe, I couldn't believe the way the power came on and how much usable torque I had especially in the low rpm range, I am finding I am need to use about half the amount of trigger movement with similar clutch setup on my BT5 as I did with my OS motors. Not saying by any means that OS makes a bad motor, I think the BT5 just suits my driving style better. Also I am using a werks 2057 pipe which if I remember correctly is a mid/top end style pipe, I could be wrong on this, but so far mileage has been good, the motor has less than a gallon on it at this point and in my first race had no problem making an 8 minute fuel stop with this combo. I do plan on buying the NOVA pipe at some point but for now this combo is really damn good.

I just installed a 9901 ss with a 41001 to my Nova 28-5 any ideas how it will perform compared to a 9886?

first practice day with a NovaRossi BTTA and 096 pipe. hands down the smoothest break in and tune I've experienced. Smoother than the OS speed I had a while back. 2 thumbs up.

I have a btta I am going to run for a few months while I service another engine. Its used but runs good . I only have 3 pipes on hand to use , Ofna something , RB 063 , or a Jp3. What do you think ?

shamelss plug for a good RC video from an event in NZ a couple of weeks age

http://youtu.be/cyd_IfSqUAI

Anyone ? Saturday is right around the corner ... Thanks

If it's a OFNA 086 I would run that.

The JP-3 is very similar to the 9901 regarding performance but the mileage is poor

.. and bolt a very short header on the 086 to get INSANE power :nod:

Could u run a p5 safely without using the Venturi? Seems like that engine runs better with maximum airflow. I had the white one but choked the engine and wouldn't tune.

So true
 

Back in the day when restrictors first showed up when I fell in love with Rb's and the p5 especially. I removed the insert. A few years ago I was talking to Mr. Hottinger the nova guy and he told me the p5's like lots of air so don't run anything small in it. If I remember correctly the p5 ran awesome without one now I run a 7.5 but yeah no insert runs great no doubt.

+1 The RB s7, SBK-01, and the first p5's ran great with no restrictors back in the day. You wont get the fuel milage that everyone else is getting, so I would start with the 8 and go from there.

Cleaned some crud off it and its a 086 . Seems to have the header it comes with . So I will give it a try . Thanks

Piston and Sleeve for Virtus
 

I have been looking for a Piston and Sleeve for a Virtus Engine. I cant find them anywhere? Is it similar with other nova engines?

a Bonito Piston sleeve is the same...except the head button wont be compatible...but other then that the Piston/sleeve should slide right on....

thanks neal. so i need a bonito button for it to work?

no..just use your existing Virtus button..the Bonito button has only 4 head screws..the Virtus has 6

well I've been very impressed with my keep off 4. thanks to the guys at clockwork for there support and knowledge. true believer in novarossi engines.

Hello! When the engine is race tuned, is it normal to have the low and highspeed needles flush? I have a Cinco BT.

I would say that sounds about normal, my HSN is about 0.5mm further in than flush and the LSN looks about flush.

However 5 minutes turn on this carb makes a huge change, so you can't really just say it's flush or not, I mean there are massive nuances here :D

Ok thanks for the answer! Then im close, just wanted to know so that i wasnt way off with the needles.

I have a new Nova P5XLT on a Kyosho inferno MP9 TKI 3 Ready set.......I have about a gallon threw it. I am running Kyosho 1.1 Clutch Springs, Kyosho Blue clutch shoes, 13 tooth bell, 46 spur. Nova 41021 Manifold, Nova 9901 SS Pipe. I have run both the 6 and 6.5 carb inserts with similar results.

The low end in the motor seems somewhat lacking. I am not the greatest tuner but I think the tune is close. I am wondering if my pipe & manifold selection may be having an adverse affect on the low end power I am looking for. The motor has plenty of top end! I run down most cars on the back straight.

From a dead stop the car is hooked up and you can hear the clutch engage but there is a flat spot in the power band at the point of engagement. The motor is not coughing and belching out smoke as if to rich.....it is not sputtering and missing out as if to lean.

I have gone over the clutch it looks good and all the shoes seem to be engaging correctly. Like I said above I am of the opinion that I may have a bad Nova mani / tuned pipe combo for the application. I don't want to sacrifice all of my top end power for low end power but I could definitely trade some high end power for some low end grunt.

I'm not the greatest driver so I know I don't carry enough speed threw the corners which drops the motor out of the power band......so my driving style is such that I go threw a corner rite before a jump and with the flat spot in the power band I come up short on most jumps. OR on a good night I carry enough speed threw the corner and over shoot the jump :lol::lol:

Its not broken in yet...the P5 with 9901/41021 and 1.1 springs combo should have plenty of bottom end. Your buggy should have enough low end grunt to do donuts once broken in. Most nova sponsored drivers run the 9901/41021 combo. I like the 2096/41021 combo for a little less low end and more top end. Something else is wrong if you think your tune is good after breakin and you still don't have bottom end.

Ok, so here's the bottom line on this.
You have a tki3 buggy which should be shredding on bottom end with this engine and pipe.
So the explanation is elsewhere.

From what you write:

• 1.0 clutch should be enough, 1.1 clutch? WHY?
  
• Carburation:
• From your explanation it sounds that you are excessively lean on top, the p5xlt shouldn't be "lightning fast" down the straight it should be mediocre. Lean top end can restrain the initial takeoff grunt of an engine, this is choking the engine and not allowing enough flow and even pressure is being restricted. So you probably need to open up the top end maybe as much as one half turn on the clock.
  
• 6 venturi? WHY?? You should be running a 7 on this engine.
  
• Leave the pipe and manifold alone, this should be plenty perfect. You should with a proper tune have a grunty bottom end and a mediocre top end down the straight.
  
• Please check your idle gap. It should be "as small as possible", if you by some reason have a large idle gap it is the same as being rich on bottom in terms of performance. You should probably be in the area of 0.4mm-0.6mm idle gap, I'm not 100% on that as I never measure I just do it by ear. The correct idle gap and correct leanness of the bottom end will allow for rpm's on idle to be in the correct zone, and a crisp bottom end will be obtained.
  
• I like to repeat this, if this engine is screaming down the straight and faster than all other cars, you have an excessively lean top end. With this pipe and this engine you should be "medium fast" down the straight compared to others. You should not suddenly gain speed halfway down it. It should probably peter out halfway down and maintain same speed the last half. IF THE CAR IS SUDDENLY GAINING SPEED HALFWAY DOWN THE STRAIGHT, YOUR TOP END IS SO LEAN THAT YOU CAN RUIN THE ENGINE

I appreciate your advice but I can do without ??? Why's.........in my post I think it's clear that I am new to this. If it wasn't clear...... hey yeah I am new to this.

1.1 clutch springs WHY??? = 1.1's are stock springs in the Ready Set Kit, When I swapped out the Kyosho motor I put new 1.1's on the nova along with blue shoes. 1.0's would compound the problem at this point would they not?

6.0 - 6.5 Venturi WHY??? = Just want decent mileage.....I would like to get 11 minutes out of a tank of fuel. Is an 11 minute run time attainable with the 7.0 Venturi?

I have read the tuning bible sticky and have attempted to obtain a "balanced" tune with a minimal idle gap. I will go back to the drawing board and re-tune. Thursday evening I felt my tune was spot on. Unfortunately Friday night racing brought quick dropping temperatures, drizzle, and rain which made tuning even more complex than normal.... But like I said the flat spot in the low end has always been a bit of a problem. As far as the back straight goes I do seem to be faster than most cars......that being said I can't say I get a burst of speed halfway down the straight.