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The 421B. ok thx. I’ll do some research on it. |
That motor is from 2004. I have a Crono RS-5. I am about to get re-pinched by Ray Where did you find a RS8 ?
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Long story short an old boss of mine owed me a lot of money. One of the things I repo’d was his losi lst 2 monster truck which was totaled, a rolling Toolbox with a ton of different parts, as well as 2 engines, an rs8 and rs5. This was a few months ago. At the time I knew nothing about rc nitro trucks, never owned one nor driven one but Iv always wanted one and I love a challenge so I figured I would break it down figure out how it was supposed to be built and rebuild it better. I’m about a month and a half into it still running into problems but I will say I finally got it running about two weeks ago |
My problem with the new truggy 28-8 pull start has been fixed. I made a gasket out of my unused 1/32" felpro gasket sheets (which I've had for years and never needed until now), Housing is still sealed from dirt and the pull start no longer binds while retracting.
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The RS-5 is similar to the P5. Only has more top end from what I was told. Great engine. Probably not as good as the new ones performance wise.
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Originally Posted by Chris Reilly
(Post 15446450)
The RS-5 is similar to the P5. Only has more top end from what I was told. Great engine. Probably not as good as the new ones performance wise.
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Originally Posted by Lst2krew
(Post 15446540)
so do these motors that come with a back plate, they can only be bump started? Or is it just a matter of ordering a new crank shaft with a pin? Reason I’m asking is because my mach 427 head button is stripped out, I think I tried everything possible to make it hold the compression but no luck and it’s been very difficult to find a replacement. So I have 4 motors, a brand new rs8 w/back plate, rs5 back w/plate and a xtm that’s having issues with the pull start. Its been one thing after another. I was going to buy the nova .28 today but I feel like that’s a waste of money. Any advice or even point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated thx |
There are no parts for the RS-8 and RS-5. These havn't been available for a very long time. These are bump box only. I don't anything about XTM or 427.
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Originally Posted by timjs
(Post 15446588)
Your Mach 427 is going to share parts with other engines/brands. There are only so many actual manufacturers. My advice would be to try to get to the bottom of what other engines' head buttons are the same unit and get one of those buttons. The next advice would be to try a Helicoil repair, if the size is available.
Originally Posted by Chris Reilly
(Post 15447192)
There are no parts for the RS-8 and RS-5. These havn't been available for a very long time. These are bump box only. I don't anything about XTM or 427.
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Novarossi p5xlt mani/pipe combo for truggy
seems since werks b5 pro 2 is backprdered for atleast another month and ive heard great things about the novarossi p5xlt 2019 revised edition. I want to know what best combo for a manifold and pipe for my truggy. Realistically id like something thats good in both bottom and top end. Mix of both, not soo strong leaning towards one or the other. Going on a losi 8ight truggu. Also looking for a new clutch setup. Whats good? |
Originally Posted by Dabeardedbro
(Post 15450105)
seems since werks b5 pro 2 is backprdered for atleast another month and ive heard great things about the novarossi p5xlt 2019 revised edition. I want to know what best combo for a manifold and pipe for my truggy. Realistically id like something thats good in both bottom and top end. Mix of both, not soo strong leaning towards one or the other. Going on a losi 8ight truggu. Also looking for a new clutch setup. Whats good? Clutch im using silver springs where the gold were and gold where the green were. Love the hit. |
Originally Posted by Matt Piva
(Post 15450420)
speed spec 2 or 3 with a 2035 pipe is my favorite engine set up. If u can’t find one then a 2090 with a 75-80mm header. Clutch im using silver springs where the gold were and gold where the green were. Love the hit. |
Originally Posted by Matt Piva
(Post 15450420)
speed spec 2 or 3 with a 2035 pipe is my favorite engine set up. If u can’t find one then a 2090 with a 75-80mm header. Clutch im using silver springs where the gold were and gold where the green were. Love the hit. Also not looking for OS. P5 engine need a good header/pipe combo that has both bottom and top end. Somewhere in the middle not one that leans more one way then another. |
Hello everyone, I bought this year the novarossi rolling and began to break in a little like the video from adam drake when he broke in the rex legend 4, but i did it in multiple steps (After few tanks i stopped the engine to cool down). After about one liter the engine began to leak through the front bearing. I used Labema run in fuel (1 Liter) and now Labemax/Labema one (engine has 2 Liters now, and the engine runs leaner, but problem persists, even if it is not as much as before). I don't know if it the Crankcase, the crankshaft or if it is the bearing ...I’m tempted to buy the avid ceramic bearings for the engine.Few years ago I bought the n21b 5 port engine (collaboration between Novarossi and Racing experience in France) and I’m really happy with it: Constant mileage, power, good runtimes and no troubles.You can give me some good advice :)Greetings from France ! |
I forgot to specify the kind of leaking: oil/fuel around the center diff, clutch...
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Originally Posted by goldfluss
(Post 15450685)
I forgot to specify the kind of leaking: oil/fuel around the center diff, clutch...
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p5 with 41021/9901 combo is what I like the best
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My buddy runs his with a werks 2013 pipe and header and has plenty of bottom end and runs good all threw out.
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what plug do you guys recommend for the paloma .21 gold head version?
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CTO5 0º to 10º
CTO6 10º to 25º CTO7 25º to 40º |
I'm using a 2096, 41021 pipe header combo with the Nova P5XLT-16 and it works out great for my truggy.
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P5 with 9886 w.square header
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Originally Posted by Chad Millikan
(Post 15451545)
That is a culprit of a leaky bearing. Even after you leaned it out and got the tune right, it still leaked? Did you clean it and double check. Pop in a new bearing.
after closer look, it seemed to be the center diff that was leaking on the chassis, mea culpa... The engine is still a little rich, but runs really great ! Thanks for your time and have a nive day ! |
Anyone know what type/size (part number please) of starter shaft/rod the rotorstart of a truggy 28-8 accepts? I have the truggy 28-8 pullstart and would like to at least have the rotostart parts as a spare set due to the defective pullstart design I've dealt with (the rotating pullstart assembly binds since there's not enough space between the crank and pull start housing). I've added a paper gasket, and while that has worked it has gotten soft and tries to bind so I need a metal spacer. So if I never progress with that I want something that's a permanent solution. I've never dealt with rotostarts and have no idea what shaft/rod it takes.
I found this 22804-1 but have no idea what that is specifically or what it's compatible with. |
Originally Posted by InTheZoneAC
(Post 15456537)
Anyone know what type/size (part number please) of starter shaft/rod the rotorstart of a truggy 28-8 accepts? I have the truggy 28-8 pullstart and would like to at least have the rotostart parts as a spare set due to the defective pullstart design I've dealt with (the rotating pullstart assembly binds since there's not enough space between the crank and pull start housing). I've added a paper gasket, and while that has worked it has gotten soft and tries to bind so I need a metal spacer. So if I never progress with that I want something that's a permanent solution. I've never dealt with rotostarts and have no idea what shaft/rod it takes.
I found this 22804-1 but have no idea what that is specifically or what it's compatible with. click on the link. scroll down and find your motor. click on it.. on the right side of the new screen there will be an "exploded view" click on it and all parts will be listed. but looks like these parts are needed for pull start to work 22812 13017 22803 plus the screws and oring |
Originally Posted by J.Whiting
(Post 15456666)
Off-Road Nitro Engines - NOVA - NOVAROSSI WORLD
click on the link. scroll down and find your motor. click on it.. on the right side of the new screen there will be an "exploded view" click on it and all parts will be listed. but looks like these parts are needed for pull start to work 22812 13017 22803 plus the screws and oring |
Originally Posted by InTheZoneAC
(Post 15456721)
thanks but I already looked at the exploded view. And I'm trying to gather parts for a pull start to roto start conversion, I don't need more pull starter parts. No where in those truggy 28-8 pictures does it mention the starter shaft/rod, the piece that goes from the starter to the roto start backplate.
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Originally Posted by InTheZoneAC
(Post 15456721)
thanks but I already looked at the exploded view. And I'm trying to gather parts for a pull start to roto start conversion, I don't need more pull starter parts. No where in those truggy 28-8 pictures does it mention the starter shaft/rod, the piece that goes from the starter to the roto start backplate.
Here is the part that goes into a drill to rotate the engine. I suppose you could use an old driveshaft too, as long as the pin is 1.5mm or less. |
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...12f25aa20c.jpg
Also here is the exploded if the RT |
Originally Posted by Chad Millikan
(Post 15457369)
Here is the part that goes into a drill to rotate the engine. I suppose you could use an old driveshaft too, as long as the pin is 1.5mm or less. |
Originally Posted by InTheZoneAC
(Post 15457417)
Thanks. That's what I ordered since I saw it listed for an older 28-7 motor, and just assumed they wouldn't change anything. Since I'm unfamiliar with roto starters does that part fit into a drill or a starter, or is it specifically just for a drill? Thanks again.
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Any opinions on the Rolling for truggy? |
Originally Posted by petersen114
(Post 15468703)
Any opinions on the Rolling for truggy? |
Originally Posted by J.Whiting
(Post 15468709)
I have run it in mine with no concerns. 9901 pipe. 41021 header.. I use 2x1.1 springs and 1x1.10 spring for my clutch. 3 shoe..
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give it a whirl.. I just found it need tick more clutch stall for a tick motor bottom end on my eyes but everyone drives differently.. maybe the pipe will give you the tick more bottom. but its a good motor overall.
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Originally Posted by J.Whiting
(Post 15468715)
give it a whirl.. I just found it need tick more clutch stall for a tick motor bottom end on my eyes but everyone drives differently.. maybe the pipe will give you the tick more bottom. but its a good motor overall.
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Originally Posted by petersen114
(Post 15468742)
I do have a 9901, but it’s in my buggy. Guess I could also go wi 4x aluminum shoes? Not sure what springs I would have to go with though. your normal clutch set up.. hypothetical clutch setup 2x1.0 2x.95 I would change to 2x1.0 2x1.05 or 1.1 springs and go from there.. hope that makes sense |
[QUOTE=J.Whiting;15468796]if a 4 shoe I would probably change the 2 lightest springs for 1 step up from your heaviest springs you currently run.. your normal clutch set up.. hypothetical clutch setup 2x1.0 2x.95 I would change to 2x1.0 2x1.05 or 1.1 springs and go from there.. hope that makes sense[/QUOTE should I go with the 4 aluminum with this spring change or keep the 2 carbon 2 aluminum that I am currently using. |
Originally Posted by petersen114
(Post 15468703)
Any opinions on the Rolling for truggy? dont use a 4 shoe in truggy not enough clutch shoe area |
In looking hard at the Nova Elite 5OFF .21 hard to pass up for the price. Looking to run this in my 8ight T 2.0 truggy what pipe/header would you guys recommend. Losi clutching ok or should I look into Novas?: thanks |
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