I just wonder what you just send....
As you may know this is a forum where questions, answers and discussions are done in the open so everyone can enjoy the reading and step in.
If it was something personal or something commercial you do not want to show us, just do not make such posts so we (for sure I) do not get curious to know what you just have send. And to be honest, the receiver will know you did send him a PM by a notification on top of the page and if the settings are right, by email.....

That double seal bearing is the best one out there, I highly doubt the second seal let contaminants in. Just for peice of mind, I would take it apart and do a thorough inspection and clean. If everything looks good just replace the front bearing.

As far as the front bearing failure... I'm pretty sure your flywheel is rubbing against it after trimming your collet. I suggest using a new (unmodified) collet and use an extend (stepped) front washer to get the proper clutch bell shimmimg.

There are also shims you could buy. Just search on Amain for some 3x5x0.5 shims and use as many as you need before installing the Losi washer. They also come in different thicknesses.

Sound
 

sounds good. Keep us updated if u can!

p5 is in good race tune. shorter header did the trick. good low end and yet got my top end out of it. 930-10 min motor in the truggy and does just fine. jeremy

.25 Roma Engine inside a buggy
 

Has anyone tried the .25 Roma Engine in a buggy? I'm curious of the runtime, venturi, temperature, pipe, and if the power is controllable. I understand this is a great truggy engine.

cheers! Novarossi for life!

Any tips on where to look to correct a flameout that happens say 10 minutes into a race?

We are thinking the glowplug may need to be replaced. Vehicle had at least half a tank of fuel, fired up quickly and temps were about 250 on a Paloma Limited .21

Been working well in general, just had that happen and probably cost me 3rd place . Hoping to get them next time :)

Ever try swapping to a c5tgc instead?

I've had certain Novas, like the Elite 5 and Elite 8 that just seem to run better on a c5tgc instead of a c6tgc for whatever reason. Seems to improve the idle and minimize the flameouts.

total noob here with nitro so can give that a look. Right now I have a whole bunch of oddonnell plugs that came brand new sealed that I have heard can work well too.

the rolling engines have been great but just tried the p5 in the truggy for a bit on shorter tracks. .. on longer tracks I will use the rolling

I was always told it's not good to go back and forth between brand of plugs. The pitch or bevel whatever you wanna call it is slightly different from brand to brand.

I've never had any problems going back and forth between nova and o'donnell plugs, those are the only two types I use.

Try experimenting with plugs, between the 77t, 97t, c5tgc, or c6tgc I usually find one that hits the sweet spot.

Many moons ago we had some trouble with ghost flameouts. Put on a 0,1mm shim on the underhead and your problem is gone :-)

New on road .21
 

Looking at another wc35 and mephisto. Anyone have actual experience with both? Looking to hear what differences if any were noted.

Thanks

The mephesto is a good engine but its not going to knock your socks off with power. Its a four port engine with a small crank compared to say a Mito 4. For that reason it is smoother on the bottom and on looser tracks it will be a good choice. The stock pipe suggested for it helps the engine get up to speed and with the DLC coated crank gives it high revs for longer straights with goo gas mileage. Only issue is its softer on the bottom but with some testing and some diff headers for diff conditions it can be good. I ran it with a 41031 header and the 2135 pipe but does not have that great of gas mileage. Also don't be afraid to run it with a 7-7.5 venturi to open it up.

For the price I like the Mito line of engines and the Rolling. Far better choices with power without having to have a lot of extras to make it go fast out the box.

This is the offroad section, might get better answers in the onroad section.
DLC doesn't do anything for top speed, performance differences comes from other things.

DLC is used for 2 reasons:

1) surface hardening
2) low friction surface to deal with the issue where lubrication stops working.

Lubrication is an issue with high rpm engines like the onroad engines. Lubrication has a speed limint to where it works. Going beyond lts say 45.000rpm with onroad engines there is a short moment of a bad lubrication, the low friction DLC surface will take care. All depends the qualuity of the used oil.....

Basically only the crankpin is most needed to have the DLC, that the whole crankshaft is done is just the process.

There is other ways to reduce the friction as well, some is used before they apply the DLC or it would turn in to a file. :lol:
But the hardness and low coefficient of friction does help if the oil or additives isn't there. I guess one reason why it has become more popular is all the full synthetic fuels for racing.
Piston pin can also benefit from it, but I don't think there is any engines anymore that run that.

Paloma @$169 vs Bonito @ $189

Hello, I am looking for a new engine for my Inferno GT2, and I am wondering if there is a huge difference between the two motors.

The specs read the same for both, and I am curious why the $20 difference between the two... what makes the Bonito superior?

Try rhe angeld 41001 or 41005 headers. Gives you more power. The 180 curved ones smoothend out engies to much.

I have two Nova Engines .21, One needs to be repinched and has a new piston shaft the other is for parts, if anyone is interested ?.

^^

They will all work, but if you're going to run a truggy on a short track I would go for one of the "square" instead of curved, and a longer will give you more bottom end.
Manifoldsi for 3,5/4,66cc Off-Road Engines - NOVA | Novarossi World - NOVAROSSI WORLD

The square 41032 will give the most top end of any of those manifolds - it’s the shortest and conical. If you care about fuel mileage, you’ll probably want to opt for a cylindrical header of moderate length. These manifolds make less power, which in turn consumes less fuel.

As has been mentioned by Neal and others in the past - the manifold has more influence on an engine’s behavior than the pipe ever will.

I wish I could get ahold of a shorter conical manifold than the 41032 for my 8T 3.0 with mod P5XLT engine. It could use more top end. I’m in the process of managing the clutch and adjusting differential oil viscosities in the meantime.

You think?
I see the manifold more as a fine tune on the exhaust.

A fine tune? LOL. The manifold is the heart of the engine only next to the port size, shape, and timing. Hardly part of the “fine tuning”. That’s what the pipe really is because most 1/8 pipes are very near the same size and volume. Internal shapes and lengths can alter the wave timing, but the biggest factor is the overall length of the system.

Well the square is the ones that has sharp corners, like 41001, 41005, 41019, 41032.
Conical means that the inside diameter is different from one end to the other, same size at the engine as the regular, but larger at the pipe. Like 41031, 41032.

finally got to run my H.E.S full monty mantra yesterday, runs like my old murnan btt motor with a bit more bottom to mid(probably due to it being larger displacement than most .21s). two tanks in I was running 8 mins a tank with some fuel left. I did run it for a couple laps in edmonton the previous weekend but didnt loctite the engine mounts and ate the clutchbell up in warmup so it never really warmed up fully.

People loctite engine mounts?