good usable power throughout the power band.. track dependent for mileage but 9-11 mins consistently.. 2135 pipe. 41021 header.

anyone got a recommended link to what they feel is a good breakdown of going through your engine and prepping it for winter storage?

what if the pistons material is created to expand at operating temperature in a calculated ratio more such than the brass/chrome the liner is formed from?

Yep, and those engines I have seen like the Kyosho RTR stuff. Almost no compression when cold but they do start and run well.

When heating the engine to start it for the first time, don't just place the heat gun at the top of the engine, you need to move it around the sides and even the bottom of the chases where the crank case and bearings are. You need to get a good amount of heat in the engine before trying to prime the engine with fuel this will make it start a lot easier. Make sure your glow ignitor is charged fully, most of the Nova plugs come with a little oil in them, I always take them out first and test them to get that bright glow before trying to start the engine. Replace glow plug, heat all around the engine, top, bottom and sides.....prime the engine, then it will start right up. If it does not fire off and stay running lean the idle screw a hair just enough that it fires and stay running. From there follow who ever you follow for break in. My method I have been running these engines for 20 plus years never has failed me and they last, but we all have our own way. Getting it started for the first time is pretty standard. CHARGE YOUR BATTERIES IN THE GLOW IGNITOR AND BOX FIRST!, HEAT ALL OF THE ENGINE, PRIME IT, THEN IT WILL START,

Mephesto is a very good engine, very easy to drive and gets decent mileage, don't be afraid to run it with a 7.5mm venture to get the power out of the engine. You will still get good mileage with this setting.

YES..... add the water into the pipe and use the black caps that come with the engines to cap off the ends.....cant believe someone asked that...smh. Leave pipe in freeze over night at the most and it will push some bad dents out of the pipe. Do not leave the pipe in the freezer to long as it will hurt the inside of the pipe baffles.

To clean the pipe, soak in concentrated anti freeze in old crock pot on low for about 5-6 hours. Take out and polish with clean towels and chrome polish. A Dremel and polish tips work good or a big table buffer works even better.

2135 is an EFRA registration number and with that registration all dimensions are noted and may not be changed. What may be different is the header connection, thickness and coating.

I'm sure this has been asked before, but new to Novarossi. Have a Bonito in a truggy (NT48.3), and was wondering what is a good pipe/header combo. Medium size track, with one straight and fairly tight infield.

I'm currently running the 41031 conical header with the 9901 pipe on 7 port Rolling
haven't got it fine tuned yet after changing front bearing still pretty rich and was pitting at like 7mins on truggy

i would personally recommend 9853/41032 or 41033 header

most bottom setup ..

I have a copy of that manual. Feel free to PM me if you are still looking.

Anybody know where to get HIPEX pipes stateside?

https://www.murnanmodified.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=145

Murnan Modified has them.

Lee

Just there today, has 0 off-road pipes.

On my new Max Power Extreme engine I have just over 3/4 a gallon through her- I did the breakin heat cycle stooopid rich tank idles- head wrapped- high idle- full throttle- with heat gun applied pre and during tanks- then drove it conservative with head wrapped still progressively leaning until where Im at now- a bit more than 3/4 gallon.

Still I cant turn the engine over by finger when its hot! it gets stuck and has quite a lot of pinch. I would have thought it would be further along the loosening up process. This is my first break in from start to finish.

The real issue is the car off the line (only 10% throttle) just about always has a delayed reaction and I think I have pinpointed it to just being not broken in yet and sticking at TDC? Does this sound about right? I set my idle gap well, I am an above average tuner and troubleshooter so I believe my tune is more than close enough for this stage of breakin for it to at least take off smoothly. The clutch is a new Buku so I dont think its the clutch. Factory settings atm. I was also having issues with the engines immediately stalling as soon as I took the ignitor off- the the engine finally warmed up and I leaned it a little bit and it started to run so I dont think its the plug, fuel or exhaust either. I feel its sticking at TDC as the other symptom I had I heard can be caused by being stuck at tdc (engine dying when removing ignitor). Does this happen with new engines? delayed start off the line?

I hear ya... I don't think it would totally be sticking hence or else it would stall as you referred to and that makes sense- but what if it's just only sticking slightly? just enough to cause a quick delay in response then the power kicks in? I say this because some of that pinch is gone and it gradually gets tighter- it doesn't just get halfway into pinch zone and completely get stuck- its more progressive thats why Im thinking it may not be getting stuck enough to stall out but cause delay. Any other thoughts guys? I should mention Im running a 9mm insert. I heard low end response can suffer a little with a 9mm but never heard of a it causing a big hiccup before moving so to speak.

Could be too lean on the LSN, that may be caused by a too long back pressure line or a blocked backpressure line.

Thanks for your response! much appreciated.

My pressure line is very short ~4.5 inches
My fuel line is even shorter ~2.5 inches. Only goes from nipple around filter neck to the tank nipple- really short like the rtr MP9


Funny you mention lean lsn because I absolutely thought that first as the lsn will only run when its far in like 4 turns in. This is the only way to keep it running during breakin running on the ground. I think it's too lean but it's blowing smoke a lot of smoke from low to mid acceleration. If I start to richen the lsn it wont idle and yes adjusting the idle too.. Im flabbergasted :) Everyone that runs Novarossis say between 1-2 turns in on lsn and about flush to .5 turn in on hsn and that's a race tune!! i'm way further in on lsn and its rich. :o

Think its my 9mm carb insert and pinch?

Your needles are backwards if its blowing smoke but running to lean. You need to set your needles to factory settings, which inside your box in the instructions it will tell you what they are, if you don't know on Nova engines its about flush with the top brass collate on the HSN and about 4 turns out from bottom on the BSN. Also you say you have heat in the engine and its still getting stuck. How much heat? what temp? If you are new to breaking in an engine then you need to be using a temp gun or have someone that knows what they are doing to help you. You need this engine to be as hot as about 240 during break in. Look up Adam Drake on YouTube for videos on engine break in, he uses or suggest the easiest way to break in an engine till you get more comfortable with doing it. There are many ways to do it, he suggests the easiest way to break in an engine for someone new to the hobby. Also get you some new fuel line. Dubro makes some decent line and cheap and tough. Doesn't have the best mileage but will get you going. Pressure lines is no less than 6 inches, and fuel should be that or a little bit more.

Roblupo, did you ever try the / header on the Memphisto?

I didn't. I haven't been running it much lately. Its a good running engine but its only better for smaller tracks. I ran both the 41021 and 41031 headers

Need help
 

Hello everyone. I have been in the nitro world 15 years now as a basher. Have seen many motors come and go. I always replaced them with cheaper knockoffs. But I have decided a nova is in my future lol. It will be living in a losi 8ight. I bash but also do a lot of high speed runs. I am leaning towards the rex 28-8 I keep hearing all about. I am open to other suggestions as well. But the rex I can find new from $190 to $300 why such the price difference? Is there an older and new model? None I have seen say the are modded. This dynimite. 21 just isn't enough. I swear its loaded rpm sounds like its barely over 15,000 rpm. I know all you nova guys wont steer me in a wrong direction. Thanks ahead of time.

Looking at replacing my Ultimate M3T with a Novarossi Mephisto

How are people finding their Mephisto motors overall happy with them ?

Mephisto is a good engine over all with all the goodies that people want to have like OS engines. Its overly smooth on the bottom in my opinion which if you run it with the right pipe and clutch setup its still very good. Has a lot of pull for long straights and the head keeps the engine really cool. Over all its a good engine, but there are plenty that are cheaper that will perform better is my thoughts. Depends on what you want.

I still belive you should test the Mephisto with the / header. Thoose manifolds are much better than the long curved ones-like 41021 and its siblings

Is the mephisto still listed as square stroke but is standard novarossi 16.8mm stroke like the mantra?

I agree with your comment on the header testing. I personally like the 41031 header with the 053 pipe.

Lee

Hey guys, new to the nitro scene. Been racing electric past few years and help pit for other nitro guys. Picked up a Rex Legend 4 for cheap that has a new sleeve and piston done by AMR. Looking to either have that as a backup or use that as a main and have something else as a backup. What do you all suggest? Really looking at the Mito 4. I race on different sized tracks with different conditions outdoors. During the winter, I'll be indoors on a small to medium size clay track.

How is the Rex Legend 4 compared to the Mito 4 as far as power, fuel mileage, ease of tune? I have the 41001, 41021, and 41031 manifolds and a 9901 and 2096 pipes. What would be a good manifold/pipe combo for the Rex Legend 4?

41021+9901

Novarossi REX Legend 4 is a Long Stroke Engine with standard bearings.
Novarossi Mito 4 is a Super Long Stroke Enigine with OFF-SET carburetor and patented bearings.

Just what i know...

Hello guys. I went back a few pages looking, but I’m looking for info on the Rolling. I’ve had plenty of nova motors and I’m looking for pipe and header combos and also, buggy or truck? Or if anybody has run it in a truck. Run times will very I get that. I like bottom end with a good top. Thanks for any input.
Scott

I run a modified Rolling in my truggy with 021 manifold and 9853 pipe. Great power and I get 10min pit stops with it. I have a stock version in buggy with same manifold and pipe. Did 10min pit stops last weekend with enough fuel to go another 1:30mins.

would you run it stock in a truck?