so i got the motor all in with the bump start crank and back plate.
its been ebis broke in so ill do a couple heat cycles as reccomended.

what should i expect for a run time on a .28 truggy? ive never raced nitro so i have no clue when i should pit etc lol

Fuel economy will vary by temperature, humidity, track conditions....etc. You'll figure out your pit window during practice.

that makes sense.
is there a starting point i should go with on the restrictors?
The track isnt very big so i wont need all the top end. Currently its the 9mm restrictor but ive seen alot of people mention dropping to a 6/6.5?
thank you for all the help.

We run the 6.5 on our Nova

great thank you that seems to be the consensus. I will tune with that.

So...I’ve always had some trouble running for idle with this motor and I realized now that it’s because I was setting idle with the restrictor in... set it without it and everything seems good now.

im almost through break in so hopefully I’ll get to do some tuning this weekend.

What did you set the idle gap at?

The thickness of your Xacto blade (.5mm) or so.

You set his gap?

.7mm
I have drill bits that are .5mm and .7mm I use to set the gap with

Did your Nova manual say that was the correct gap? Seems like .5-.55mm is more common.

wow going back it says .6mm. Idk where I read .7mm

I've not dealt with any .28 engines so that's why I suggested checking the manual. .5-.55 is pretty common for .21 engines.

I have learned that you should set the idle gap with the restrictor removed. That can make a difference. Hope this helps

Novarossi 28 Crankcase
 

Hi All, Does anyone have a clean Nova 28 crankcase (stripped and no bearings etc required) for sale? Preferably 7 or 8 port current generation. I race tether cars and plan to use one as a donor for a rear rotor project. Cheers, Scott

I have learned to adjust the HSN and LSN to the max performance and adjust the idle to it.

At this point I just need it to get around the track haha. We’ll worry about performance when it counts.

I’ve got a couple more heat cycles for break in so I’ll try with a bit smaller idle gap and adjust accordingly.

Also with a break in you adjust the needles to what you need to run rich and adjust the idle to it. For sure with a break in there is no way to hold on to a given idle gap, that will never work.

There’s a million ways to skin a cat.

im not quite sure what you mean
the box settings have seemed to work for the break in heat cycles. looks/sounds rich and holds an idle decent
in general once its gone through heat cycles i should set high speed then low/idle?

You never adjust the idle by a given gap distance but only by what the engine is telling you.

ther is also a million ways to kill an Rc nitro engine, but only a few ways to adjust the same engine to longevity, good performance and reliability at the same time😉

I suggested setting the idle gap first and then tuning from there. Of course Roleof shit all over my advice because he is some sort of nitro engine guru. The method of setting the idle gap first has worked well for me and is even suggested by JQ in one of his “how to tune a nitro engine videos” on YouTube. I guess JQ is just an idiot and can’t tune a nitro engine. He’s probably killing nitro engines left and right because of setting the idle gap first. Roleof gives great advice like suggesting that you don’t set your idle gap first and that you just gotta listen to the engine and tune the needles. That’s fricken great if you’ve been running nitro for years and can do that. New guys need a starting point. Setting an idle gap that is very close is a good place to start in my opinion. After setting that idle gap you can tune the LSN to make a good idle. From there it’s as easy as tuning the HSN for good overall performance. Of course after going through this process you may need to go back and tweak the idle gap or LSN but it will get you very close. Now I’m sure Roleof will give some genius advice like to never tune the way I suggested and to just listen to what the engine is saying. Hell, if everyone just knew to “listen to what the engine is saying” we would all have perfect running nitro engines!

From reading multiple of his posts on the subject I believe that this is the exact point he's trying to make by telling people to "never adjust the idle by a given gap distance but only by what the engine is telling you". Some people are interpreting JQs video in a way that tells them THIS EXACT idle gap MUST WORK and to NEVER touch it again, and if it doesn't they're doing it wrong, which simply isn't the case for all engines. Picking a small-ish idle gap to begin with as a starting point is not bad, but learning how to find the right idle gap is better, because it transfers across multiple engine makes and models at all different, altitudes temperatures and humidities.

One brand you should never trust of the constancy of the carburator is Novarossi. There are so many different low speed needles used that you never can say all carbs react the same, even when you buy a same engine there is a high chance there is someting different to the carburator. With starting a break in it is normal to set the idle a full turn higher because the high pinch on some engines will slow down the piston a lot and yes, Novarossi does set a decent rich starting tune on their carbs. Also after the break in there are some factors like mainly the fuel and a different exhaust (different back pressure) that requires a different tuning on the carb with which also the idle gap is affected

I did write it several times and now again that I have seen the bad side of the JQ video. A guy running that same OS carburator as JQ mentioned so he did set his idle to 0.5mm as advised in the JQ video. He did not get the LSN right with that idle gap but refused to change the idle at the right LSN setting.

So yes, with a given idle gap you can never tel if you do get the LSN tuning right. If it works, it works but will it be spot on? For anyone who can not tell if the LSN is set right it can be too rich or too lean on the LSN so it is wise to know and learn what the LSN does instead of tuning it to a given idle gap.
Of course you can start with a certain idle gap but at the end when you have the HSN and LSN tuned right you have to touch the idle screw to get the idle right and not the LSN.

well, i actually know JQ and even if some of his videoes is good-i certanly not agree on evrything rc related. I do not giva a f… about all other things his is throwing left and right.

Point is: evry engine has a certain way of tuning. You cant tune a Novarossi like an Os or a Picco or an old Reds even if it was made by Picco. I agree with that.

You need to learn how and what to do with the signes your engine gives you-like your girlfriend/boyfriend as you say.

For the biginner, we need to learn them witch signes to look for-not messurements. There are to many variables, but the signes are ALWAYS the same no mather what engine i tune.

just to inform:
I had to change my username because i forgot my password here on rctech. I have been doing rc nitro engines since the mid 90’s and modifying the last 15 years with some quite good results.

Yes, Rolef knows alot about theese engines.

Piccos are even worse….

this is what i was planning on doing.
setting the idle to get me somewhere close. adjust to stay rich through break ins then set the other needles and i believe you finish off with idle.

Can you guys recommend me which plug should I use for break in and which one for racing, tnx
I'm about to start breaking in bonito and I got vp gold break in fuel for it.

CT06 for both.

tnx for reply, but....
quick search gets me to this
CT6 - Conical Turbo for temperature 10°C/25°C (1/10th onroad)
so....
1. I need glow plug for off road aplication
2.1/8 scale
3.temp in FL are over 25 °C right now
it's efin overwhelming number and types of plugs that exist and at the same time, bunch of them are discontinued 🤯
I need glow plug, that I can buy for novarossi bonito .21 off road engine. For first quart I bought vp break in 13% nitro/14% oil and after that I was planing to use vp 25% nitro/9% oil
as I said in FL right now is over 80 degrees so if I understood this right I need cold or very cold turbo plug.
Any help is highly appreciated I'm fairly new in nitro world.

ct6 and ct06 are not the same
you need a ct06 or ct05

Probably not gonna find a CT06 plug anywhere. Nova factory hasn't been operating for over a year. I've been told you can use a P3 OS plug but once you do you'll need to stick with that going forward. Not really a problem as those plugs are available everywhere.

What about C5TGN? Looks like hobby town has them in store. Now, in description they claim plug for any weather conditions but on plug package it says from 0-10° C

One more thing, why would I need to stick with that plug if I use it once? Is plug tread diferent?

the claim is that the taper is different and once you seat the p3 you wont seat the novarossi ever again
i THINK the tgh is the older version of the CT0 series

Never had issues switching brand plugs on an engine. Only Novarossi plugs will not be totally tightened in other brand engines but even then it is easy to make them fit (I recently did once on a Picco).

Somewhere in an old topic on this forum a guy could measure the taper angle on several plugs using an electronic magnifier and the tapers were just a few degrees different.

My god 🙆‍♂️
What about protek t5 medium?
I won't go with p3 cause it's ultra hot plug. Probably not gonna work for me.

Tnx, and what about this hot/cold plug thing, am I right with going medium/cold for 80+ degrees weather?

all my Novarossi engines we ran the number 5 plug regardless of weather.. you should be fine..

My guess is that plug heat ranges are like lipo c ratings, there's no standard. If a p3 and a ct06 are the standard plugs for their respective engines then my guess would be they are probably the same heat range. Only way to know is check your burn pattern.