give ya a tip , get the 6mm out and put 7mm in , c5tgc are pretty hot and work perfect for situations such as what you are describing

i would not recommend using an os plug in novarossi but if you decide to , stay with os plugs

Highly doubt your flameouts are caused by the plug. You could run a c6 in 30 degree weather if u tune it right. The white insert is only 6mm which makes tuning a nightmare when your atmospheric conditions change so much as you described. Try the blue(6.5mm) or orange(7mm) insert with c5 plug. The larger the insert the more consistent your tune wil be in different conditions. And of course, more power at the expense of runtime.

Hi, I run O.S. P4 in my 21-4C. We had a midnight race yesterday, and temperatures started out at 32.5C at 9pm and dropped to 20C by the time we finished the race up.

The threads of the head button are NOT a problem.
The angle of the taper is NOT a problem, it has been proven time and again by engineers on this forum, that the angle of the taper is THE SAME.
However:
The threaded section and the tapered sections on OS and Nova plugs differ in size.
What does that mean?
That means there is a larger area tapered on the Nova plug, and shorter threaded secttion on the Nova plug.
This means you can not use a Nova plug in an OS engine, as the threads are not enough to enter properly;
AND it means that if you want to use an OS plug in a Nova engine, you must be careful not to overtighten it.

Just make sure you do not overtighten it, you will be fine!

The only reason these people continually harp on about wanting you to use this and that plug, is because they make money from selling them.
Happens with EVERY brand of engine! Go to the Picco 5TR thread and you'll see these people drone on and on about "Buy picco plugs they are the best thing since sliced bread". Yet people report buying 5 and having 3 be duds!
You'd never see that with OS plugs, they're great quality.

P4 runs great in mine, and it ran down to 20C temps with no problems at all.

Not about making money Elvind

os plug will deform the tapered seat area in novarossi combustion chamber

Thanks for the replies. I will try the bigger Venturi.

Only if you overtighten it. If you don't gorilla tighten the plug, nothing happens.

I too doubt its the plug. I run the C6 from about 60*F all the way up to 100* F without issues.

I prefer my plugs to be tight as that is how a taper fit seals

Hello Houston,

Is it possible to install a BTT P/S/C on a Plus21-4C ? I'm wondering if the crankcase of the BTT have some additional machining on the exhaust port...

Can someone please tell me which Novarossi 7 port this engine is based on?

Maxy's Siete, I noticed the bore is smaller than the Keep off 7xlb. Does a larger bore mean more bottom end.

Displacement: 3,49 cc
R.P.M. (max power): 38.000 RPM
Practical range: 6.000-44.400 R.P.M.
Bore x Stroke: 16,26x16,80 mm
Sleeve: 7 ports
Exaust Port: 3 ports
Rear ball bearings: Ceramic
Front ball bearings: Steel
Crankshaft: 14mm - Turbo
Piston: CNC
Carburetor: aluminium - 9 mm - slide
Glowplug: Turbo

Look in the onroad/rally on novarossi site ;)

Plugs for plugs
 

It's really not simply the temperature it's the humidity the barometric pressure etc... Monty is right. I run in very humid conditions sometimes and a slightly warmer plug helps to keep the engine fired and also make sure the bottom end is nice and crisp.

Yep. Sounds like the Kappo .21 Rally motor.

Would this motor have enough bottom to move a truggy?

I don't know the Humiditiy in Texas but out here on the east coast we get humidity levels in the summer from a nice 35% to a nasty 85-90%. While yes a warmer plug would help in those higher humidity conditions I don't find it absolutly a must to change it. Just my opinion though. :D

If you intend to overtighten the plug, you will ruin the combustion chamber with a Nova plug as well, so that argument is like pissing in the wind.

people sure get their panties all bundled up for no reason...

Wheres neophyte6 when you need him/her? ;)

Does anyone have some basic race settings for the keepoff? I know there are plenty of variables, just want to get in the ballpark. I'm running the 2096/41021 with the 6.5 venturi and c6tgc plug.

5 turns lsn 4 turns hsn

good starting point

I've had great success with OS plugs on Nova motors. Just add some white Teflon tape to the threads during every change out it works great. I can post a video if you want. :D

Can you run Os plugs on a nova mill.. Man I miss those days where people argue.. Rctech isn't the same anymore..

Nobody said you cant run os plugs in nova engines , jus sayin the nova plugs are highly recommended

U silly focker Jay :lol:

Well I don't sell anything and my only sponsor is an onroad chassis manufacturer. Years ago, Nova plugs took a bad turn. For a while they really sucked. During that time I tried just about every plug available to find an alternative.

OS. Great plugs but some motors had leaking issues with them.

OD. Worked but didn't last as long and were not as crisp. I would use only as a last resort.

Picco. Worked very well but were really expensive.

LM (Sirio, Werks, etc.). Fantastic plugs. Ran great, lasted a long time, fit and sealed fine, my favorite plugs.

Old GRPs and GRP made Ninjas. The best ever but the new ones aren't quite the same.

Fortunately, Nova worked out their issue and their plugs have been fine for a few years now. I still don't think they are quite as good as they used to be but overall I would rate them as the best choice for Nova motors except for LM. There is good reason why Ileasi (IDM) worked for Picco, sold his own Picco motors yet his plugs were LM. If you are running OS with no issues, great. There's nothing wrong with that but I have to wonder why when Werks plugs are widely available, cheap and the best running/longest lasting plugs I have ever used and have no sealing issues.

Do u recommend using the 7 venturi over the 6.5.

Yes sir

You Rang...I will stay faar away from your threads and Nitro wisdom...lol...I would hate to have The houston Mafia on My Ass over Toy Cars..:eek:....Its your World Gangsta...:D

Now thats funny sheeeet , lol

Lets just talk of novarossi engines here though ;)

Houston, I didn't know you were such a mafioso.
You might want to consider some old school godfather tricks, leave a cut off horse's head in that guy's bed, stick a knife in his doorway, give him the kiss of death etc :D
Is your real name John Gotti and did you fake your own death?

Advise needed
 

Any help is very appreciated!
I go a engine from a great friend of mine (Nova Bonito) trying to help get the engine right. The tune was not holding great on it so I got it to try and get it going right. The engine prob has less than 3 gallons on it, compression is GREAT...now, he lost a plug element in the engine and I was wondering looking at the pics below, if the slight scars on the piston top, and the bottom of the button, how "bad" is that and how will it effect the engine???
The problems he had were happening still before the plug went, and there are no marks on the crank, sleeve, or sides of the piston

http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/...psef00d090.jpg

http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/...psbd876883.jpg

I would say sent the p/s and button to RayA and have it cleaned up before it is fired up again.

As long as there are no scratches above the oil rings, the piston is usable. I would be concerned about where the filament from the plug went. Make sure the bearings are smooth and not notchy.
As far as the inconsistent tune, take off hsn from carb and make sure there is no debris inside of it. Even the tiniest thing inside there will mess withe the fluid flow dynamics of the carb. Since you have it all apart may as well change front bearing to rule that out also.

:nod:

I had the same thing happen, ate a plug, sent it to Monty and he sent it to RayA and its been running like a top ever since. Mine looked worse than that one...

Yeah, get it pinched and let it rock. Might want to throw a rod in it too. That might be what caused the plug to drop in the first place.

Ray does great work. Just sent my 7+ gallon p/s to ray to get a light pinch. Just got a new block with bearings and a new rod. By Btt is like a new engine for just over $120 :)

The element has been squashed between the piston and button, obvious I know, just making the point of change the conrod as it has been subjected to overload and could fail prematurely.
9 times out of 10 Nova tuning issues are from worn bearings. Nova bearings are sloppy from new so it doesn't take much wear to cause problems.

But guys, the engine is still basically new...just past break in, so the element coming out is not my concern (one time occurrence and motor has been ran since then MANY times)
It doesn't need pinching at all, I am asking what if anything can I do about the top of the piston and the button head bottom? How much does this effect the motor?

You answered your own question. If its been run a lot after this occurred, and everything is up to par, put it back together and burn some nitro!:nod: it probably wouldn't be wise to try to sand or polish the nicks out cause you would have to remove to much material and lower compression. They shouldn't effect performance enough to matter. RUN IT!

I have an extra head button lying around I believe. Ill send it you free, just pay shipping.

Monty, question for ya. I asked you this before, but the picture vanished and your answer was "left to right", and without the picture I'm still 50/50. :confused::weird: 1st time I asked it

What is the direction of flow for this filter? In/Out

http://www.amainhobbies.com/images/l...schu2851_1.jpg

kyosho fuel filters should be in flow side with no oring , exit flow side with oring

not too sure bout the schumacher one