Hi,

This is not completely true, the T-Plus 5 (Novarossi TOP engines) have filled crank, on the other hand they are not so commonly available as Novarossi other engines.
See http://www.novarossi.it/2012/index.p.../t-plus-5.html

anyone know where I can get my hands on a piston (only) for a p5???

Piston only is not available from any engine company as pistons are matched to sleeves. You will have to buy a piston/sleeve set.

p5 XML
 

Hi Everyone, what is the best way to make a break in to a novarossi p5?

Nova
 

Follow Novarossi instructions in the paperwork they send with them. You will need some break in fuel made up though.

The sticky at the top of this page.."The Breakin Bible" should be more than enough advice and help...

Good Luck...:tire:

Hey guys, As my P5 XLT get more and more mileage on it, Im starting to think about new engines. I love my P5, it's such an awesome engine!

As far as decisions go, Im debating between the Mugen B5 and the B4.

It's for an MBX7, BTW with the Losi RE12 system (similar to 9901, 021 combo). how does the B4 compare to the B5 (same as P5) as far as performance and mileage?

[/I]
I would stick with the p5 if your looking for something more then maybe look at the crank modded/silicone filled or even a complete mod some reputable guys on here well worth talking too:nod:

as one of the guys said see the break in bible but most importanly heat cycle your engine run in time anywhere between 1.5-2 gals (6-8 ltrs):nod: I am currently running in my p5 on my hudy break in bench all going well nice engine:nod:

P5 Toast after only 2 gallons
 

My p5 is toast after only 2 gallons compression is nil and the front bearing leaks very bad. When the piston and sleeve were pulled I found scratches on the back side of the piston and sleeve directly on the exhaust port. I have been very meticulous about air filter maintenance and have never even seen a speck of dust or dirt on the secondary filter. Any ideas on the cause it was not a glow plug element changed the first one after break in and im on my third one now. I'm hopping a polish and a pinch will get me back up and running with a new front bearing. Any help would be appreciated. Oh I run a Mugen MBX6. thanks

I have seen so many times the mbx6 buggy air filter boot the rubber neck have a bad like tear in it from black part of the tank hitting the boot from flex. Check that. You might have to trim the black plastic part off. Just an idea.

the slightest dirt ingestion will do this, my friend had a powerhouse modded p5 thing was ballistic but had some slightest amounts of dirt must of got in and now no compression:cry: as long as there is no scoring on the piston there is a guy on here rayaracing that could bring it back to life:nod:

Hey Guys,

I have a Plus-4BTT WC. Barely a gallon through it. Running Byrons Gen2 30%.

How do you know if you should run a cooler plug? This past weekend was the warmest (by far) day we've had and the first race day I've raced it. I started out with a C6TGC for first qualifier and the temperature outside was probably around 75 degrees. By the 2nd qualifier it was at least 85 so I changed to C7TGC.

When I took the 6 out (which is still the orginal plug that came with it) the tip of the filament had quite a bit of black stuff caked on it. I assume it was from break-in running rich but I'm not sure. Filament itself looked ok.

Would you have recommended the 7 or stick with the 6? Do you require any tuning changes with a glow plug change?

Thanks,

JJ

Hi
 

sure I love the c7 plugs but only if it's not too humid outside. I live near the coast so it gets really humid and the 7 plugs tend to be stubborn in those conditions hot or not. if it's warmer then 80 degrees and dry the c7 is perfection. it last longer. I usually need to lean it up a bit on top and bottom and watch the idle it usually goes down slightly with the c7tgc. In any other condition run the c6tgc. I hope this helps. 99t's work great too, and 97t's for break in or very humid conditions.

Oh I just realized it's for a BTT they like slightly warmer plugs. the 97t is pretty good in that engine and a c6tgc is just about cool enough, cooler than a 97t. I say go for a c7 only in 90 plus temps for a btt. a p5 80 degrees and up.

dumb question
 

guys i never had a nova rossi but i am looking at 2 stock engines. p5 an a plus-4 t . which is better and what is the best all around pipe an header? i want a stock engine first befor i go with a mod.

Thanks. Running the 7 seemed to increase temps by quite a bit like, 20-30deg after a 5min qualifier. I also live on the coast so it tends to be humid when it's hot out so maybe it wasn't a great choice. I put the 6 back in for the main but had to leave before they ran it. I wanted to compare temps but for now I'll keep running the 6 unless it's very hot out.


JJ

In a buggy go with the plus4 a good matching pipe would be say the
9901 with a 41021 header if the track has low grip try the 2096 pipe :nod:

hhmmmm, if the 7 increased yuor temps, you are on the wrong plug. It is to cold for your conditions. Whenever i been in need for the 7 plug, it has been abaout 28-30 degrees celsius outside. Temps usually goes down a small bit becuse the ignitiontiming is to early in the 6 plug. I usually get an engine that respond better to needled also when changing to a colder plug at those conditions.

I recently got my first New motor which was an plus 4T and I couldn't say enough about it. Took my time breaking her in and ran as much fuel thru it as possible (1 gallon) before sending it off to Chris Nunez. I also ran mines with the 9901/41021 combo, but when it comes back from Chris I'm gonna try a 2096/41021 combo.

Sounds like bearing failure.
This is so common on the p5's that people in Spain are saying you should replace the bearings after 1 gallon or so.

could you post a picture of that piston and its scratches ?

Has anybody tried sealing their front bearing with high temp RTV, or some other sealant? The bearing caps make sense, but they don't work with Losi flywheels. There has to be another way to keep a sealant in place.

I haven't tried the RTV, But why don't you try a aftermarket clutch? M2C is a awesome 4 shoe clutch. I think the Flywheel on the Losi is a 34mm? Just and idea. I know it's another $50 but it might be worth it so you can run this seal.

if you have a nova with the double seal, take off the first seal pack it with good high quality grease, and put back on the seal... works similar i think

Great mines think alike. Brian and I have tested exactly what you are doing. It is better than nothing but does not compare to the caps.

In fact, what we do, with Nova 17001 bearings is put the grease BUKU supplies with the caps between the 2 bearing seals and use the caps. Double seal - works fantastic.

Clutch is only a half gallon old, so I'm going to sick with it for now. I should find a cheap motor to do some testing.

Ill get one up tomorrow.

The reason you've got scratches is probably because of bearing failure, little pieces of bearing going out the exhaust port.

Usually, scratches on the piston on the exhaust side is from running lean, bad luberication or a bad combo of pipe and header.

That would probably be true in many cases, but in this case the p5's in sale now have a reputation for bearing failure after approximately 2-2.5 gallons, so in this case when the guy says his front bearing is full of gunk, I am quite confident that this is a result of bearing failure and little pieces of bearing passing through the engine.

I did a leak down test on the motor the front bearing passed so much air through it I barely had to blow. Guy at the local hobby shop said he had never seen one so bad. And I will not be able to put a pic up of the piston as it and the sleeve have all ready been sent out to get polished and pinched. I ordered Buku front bearing caps to stop this in the future. Or does any body know of a good bearing to replace the stock one for the p5 as I'm going to buy another one in the next couple weeks.

I would assume a Nova ceramic maybe ?

Bearings
 

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Front-Bearing

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Engine-Bearing

These are the two bearings I have been using with great results on the P5.

Try the tko ceremics amain have them :nod:

I'm planning to get a new engine, i'm between the BTTS-WC and the Keep Off 4S.
Whats better?

I would buy the Keep Off 4S to be the new line 2013

Really don't think you can go wrong with either one.

I just purchased a 21 4 btt wc. My question is i have a pipe combo that i ran on my 21 4c. It is a 41021 and a super strong 9901. The nova site is a little confusing to me. Looks like they changed part numbers around. Will this be a good combo for this motor? Thanks -Tim

every one that i know run this combo and their engine screams.. they are other combos.. but you have this one already and its a good one...

They all offer a little something different, honestly the 9901/41021 combo is the norm and you can fine tune with other pipes, I'm gonna try a 2096 next weekend.