I have always found 3 shoe clutches to kick in harder than the 4 shoes. they also tend to come on higher in the rpm range and that gives a more aggressive feel.

Generally I run 4 shoe with 2 x .9 and 2 x 1.0 with 4 Alum shoes. For me its a good base setup and if the track really grips up then like Megasaxon Ill run 4 x 1.0

Nevermind.... sorry, I misread your post and after rereading it (correctly) it makes total since :D.

no clutch on the planet gives bottom end like a M2C........definitely gives more bottom end then a 3 shoe does....

Neals got a video where he shows ya what ya gotta do

Just gotta make sure you dont push on the inner race that sticks out .3mm

Novarossi bearing tool works like a champ , already concaved on the front bearing collet

Oh, I didn't know the bearing's inner race sticks out. I was planning on using a washer or something to place against the bearing.... obviously that won't work. I don't have the tool or the new bearing yet, so I had no idea what I was going to be dealing with and/or how it will all work.

Who's Neal?

clockworks engines - maximo on rct

Thanks, I've heard about Clockwork engines.

question replacing front bearing on my btt do I need to remove one of the covers on my tko front ceremic bearing or just leave it?
cheers

Which engine?
 

I ran a plus21-4C for a long time and absolutely loved it. Love the long runtimes with 10 minute pits easy. Also love the powerband. Nice bottom and mid. Usually ran with a 2096 or 9853 pipe.

Now I will be buying another engine.Looking at the btt. Is the btt much improved over the 21-4C? Does it have a different feel? I am looking for great runtime, with a strong bottom and mid.

Go with the btt or stick with the 21-4C?

The C has a little more bottom end over the Btt. But the Btt is smoother, with a slight top end advantage. I feel the Btt with the right clutch and pipe set is plenty capable. The btt will still blow the tires loose with a 3 shoe 1.1 spring set up

Update on my stalling Plus 4C problem. It appears that it was a tuning issue possibly masked by using the wrong plug (Nova 7) and NOT the front bearing. I put a Nova 6 back in it and started w/ the out of the box needle settings---- super RICH of course, but it was so far outta whack I figured I'd start there. Several other more experienced drivers that have the same engine helped me out also and we had it screaming around the track in no time with no stalling at all.

Fedex dropped off my Hudy bearing tool and a new 17011 while my daughter and I were racing yesterday, so I can replace the bearing when I need to.

Someone told me I can spray WD40 around the front bearing while the engine is idling and if I hear a change then the bearing is bad.

Well my new 21 4c team edition just arived. I have searched and read through this forum, But i can still not find a answere that everyone agrees on. Should i follow houston's break in bible, for engine break in. The heat cycle break in? I have heard and read people saying that the novas take a long time to break in? I just want to make sure that i get this engine to run and last long. I currently have a werks b6 that i cant get any more than 6:30 out of!! I have triesd everything with my tune (thinking that i was upside down). So finaly i bit the bullet and bought this nova! Time will tell. Thanks everyone for there input!

I do the heat cycle method. I never let sit on box and idle. I start it let it warm up a bit and throw it down on hard surface and begin break in process.

Can someone post a link to the breakin method? I have a new 21-4C that I want to start breaking in as well.

Here you go:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/8075827-post1.html

Leave them both on.

+1. Leave them

Thats the one i was refering too. But is that exactly how you should break in a novarosi? Trying to read there break in procedure comparing it to houstons is quite different...

I change my engine in my truggy, Novarossi I want one that is capable + 10 min run time and good power.How to choose?

BTT, Bonito, Plus 4 Team, P5 (maybe, no personal experience) ect... Just have to use a low to mid venturi, and THROTTLE CONTROL :nod::nod:

[QUOTE=jnorwood_losi;11005321]BTT, Bonito, Plus 4 Team, P5 (maybe, no personal experience) ect... Just have to use a low to mid venturi, and THROTTLE CONTROL :nod::nod:[/

bonito is what it would be a good choice and what goes with this engine pipe

I use 9901 and 41021 and really like it, BUT I have not done allot of pipe experimenting

:)ok thanks

do it however you see fit , you will find out ways not to break in your engine in the interim of finding the "best" method ;)

running my engine at half throttle for 30 min. then race tuning it is not what i consider a "proper" break in method if you want your engine to last , you do pay $$$ for your engines right? :D

Was helping a buddy with his P5 this weekend bought a double seal front bearing and a rear ceramic upon inspection his front bearing was solid with dirty actually could see the dirt pouring out when i was cleaning . Motor is under two gallons we plug the breather hole but I was shocked anyone running a P5 highly recommend a change out even if your bearing doesn't have issue. Byron's 11 percent oil is being used. I did mine early so I didn't see issues but I would inspect if your running a P5

So u recomend your way to the tee for a novarosi? How about castor oil? I run vp fuel 30 percent nitro. I beleive the oil conent is only 9.5 percent. Should i be concerend about this? Should i add oil to the gas for break in?

I've been doing research on my next engine. In which is my first "truggy engine". I've narrowed it down to the p5 or bonito. What are some of your experiences with both engines in a truggy? I've read both engines are workhorses! Thanks in advance..

keep an eye on that engine...even with a 17011 the issue will come right back..the 17011 helps for a bit, but its only just a bandaid .......

THANKS!!

Hey Maximo,

??? Care to elaborate on what you mean? I will be receiving my P5 Wednesday afternoon and might be a little concerned that I ordered the wrong engine.

The stock bearings on the P5 can lead to them sucking in dirt. Most put the 17011 on it and call it good. However running a fuel with little/no caster oil in it will even cause the great 17011 bearing to pull in the dirt as well. The fromt bearings need oil to make them seal. Simply put make sure you have a good fuel with Castor oil, Byron's/Werks come to mind and you should be set.

If you ordered a P5, you ordered the right engine. Period.

Thank you rallyebmx!! I will let it die now

Now I am not saying you need to switch from the Team Strike. If its working for you without and issue perfect. Keep on trucking.

My post was to enlighten The guy who asked for more info. If a guy was to say he had huge dirt build up like Bigjayjay's friend and was using A fuel with no Castor oil a good solution would be to find a fuel with castor oil.

Once again, If Team Strike is working for you then that's great. Why bother switch when you aren't having any issues, right? If you were I would advise on switching.

Just a question when was the last time you opened up your front bearing?

Thank you rallyebmx!! I will let it die now

I will say this and maybe it is the reason I don't see these issues with the front bearings, even with the old styles from before the 17011 came out...

I run RB and that little trick Maximo is telling people to do on Novas is something RB has been doing for quite some time. All of my RB's have that port plugged off thats not some magic new fix, it's standard issue for some. ;)

Some call it being anal, I call it having 110% confidence in my equipment.;)

I do have to agree with your second parrigraph, there are guys who know a ton of information who hardly post but the key board jockies have the newbie vote for they have that "super elite" under there username. It's a shame, but that's how the Internet world rolls.


Also spot on with the port plugging trick. That is highly recommended.

Losi re12 + 7.5 restrictor = lots of smiles.

.

Now you know so many who have a great deal of knowledge to share with you guys do not post anything in forums such as rctech ;)

The "tech elite" you are refering to is just that we monetarily support rctech efforts

Happy motorin',
Monty

This is not an attack on you chris , simply stating this is why you dont see so many guys with great knowledge that could be shared to help make your guys' nitro running much easier