Sorry guys I'm also rusty with the lingo.
When I say bogs, I mean it is too rich when I go wot but after a few seconds it leans out a little. And then I get half decent RPMs.
I thought I was still rich on the HSN because I tried 1/4 more lean and RPMs picked up quite a bit.

Thanks

First off make sure your preheating this motor to at least 200 degrees, if your going straight off an cold motor your gonna be chasing a tune all day. But your rich that's all, when you pull the trigger is bogging then clearing out I'm assuming? Bottom is rich, but there's other steps prior to that, tune that hsn first then work on that bottom! Competition heater was the best purchase I've ever made, I'm so so much more consistent with my tune that its scary.

Thanks jaron, WTH I dont want no wedgie:eek:

I always pre heat to 200 but with heat gun.
I'm pretty sure i'm rich on the bottom but as soon as I try to lean the HSN and it is not race tune at all. The rpms are still so low I can barely clear the double jump at the track.

But as soon as I try to lean the HSN even by 1/4 turn, the engine wants to go to 240 or more so I monitor temps every 30 seconds and then I richen.

I thinks I might have debris stuck in the HSN.
I will take it apart and see how it goes.

Thanks

Don't be scared of the engine running high temps. With the low Cg head they run a little warmer than other motors. My bonito doesn't like it until about 260-270 degrees.

I could be off but I think you have your tuning lingo is wrong. One hour means 1/12th of a turn. Basically 5 minutes if you want to get techinical. One hour is not one full turn. You should be making adjustments 1/12th of a turn at a time. I usually do a blade with of the screwdriver at a time, if you are far off this will take for ever though. A p5 should run up to 260 with no real issues. I don't even use a temp gun anymore, I just lean it until it starts to make good power and don't go much further. The more you do it the more you'll get a feel for it. The engine should clear out nice and sing down the straight. If you like the way it runs at 240 you are well within the range of safe.

I used to run my P5 around 240-250 with no longevity problems. They really do run hotter than other motors, but they last just fine like that.

Ahh I was turning 1-2 or 3 hours at a time...Way too much I guess.
Thanks I did not know these carbs were so sensitive.

you definitely can't turn one 3 hours. You will be out of wack quick

I'm around the 3/4 gallon mark on my beat B4 (based on the 21-4), and it runs about the same when I've temped it. If I go an hour richer it bogs like hell, so I can agree they run a bit warm, but it's a happy as a pig in its own muck.

Backwoods engine fix
 

My P5 was toast after a re pinch it lasted 1 gallon the guy that did it did not polish the piston and sleeve so the scratches on the back side of the piston were still there only making the problem worse. So until I get a new motor I have taken the sleeve and wet sanded .003 off of the top of the sleeve then put it back together. Instant compression it runs now hopefully it will get me through the weekend that's all I'm asking of it. Then I will buy a new motor.

Hello, someone tried the Keep Off 7 with 2096 pipe? Or is it better 9901 for this engine?

Thanks. Best Regards.

This should have been posted in the 818 Mods thread ;)

:lol::nod:

i tried my 4btt tuned with sworkz pipe combo and it really really out perform my 9901 pipe

Roma
 

Anyone running the Roma just want to get an
Idea what carb insert you find best and how close
To flush have you got both needles at?
Cheers

I'm using the 6.5mm venturi (blue color), and the two needles are nearly flat. But the needles also depends on the weather.

Best Regards.

Thanks for that I just changed to the blue insert
My needles just above flush but wasn't getting the top end zip
I was looking for I mite try a hotter plug ?? Cheers

Which Sworkz pipe would that be, the one which is the same as the OS 2090SC?

Is it normal that my P5 XLT needs a new rear bearing after 1.5 gallons or am I doing something wrong?

what fuel do you run ?

rear bearings can be damaged by poor quality fuel....rapid RPM spikes while engine is cold...improper breakin of the bearing.......Over revving the engine..... running too lean.......

Cam honestly say that after a full nationals weekend, im a 9886 believer on the 4btts now. Everythimg else is crap fullstop..and i have a 9901 and 2096. Also got 10:30 consistanly with a 7mm venturi and 5plug. Using the 41021 btw. Stupid power everywhere, and gives it the topend that nova forgot to add in the box lol. I run stock motors fyi

My Bonito blew a rear bearing in <1 gallon. I've convinced myself that the reason was not heating it up enough, vice Nova worksmanship.

I used Sidewinder race 30% and odonnel 20% all with 12% oil
maybe I ran it too lean because I was always pre heating it but I would run out of fuel at the final lap of a 5 minute qualifier.
So some guys at the track helped me adjust it and we ended with 4.25 turns on the LSN and 3.1 turns on the HSN

12% oil means you were using the sport fuel ?

why is the bearing shot ? what exactly is wrong with it ?

Yup !!!!!

try the 41001 next........ :nod:

Yes, that is normal.
"The word is out" about the bearings in the P5XLT, the steel bearings aren't very good and the word going around here is everyone need to replace the bearings at two gallons. That yours only lasted 1.5 is just variation.

My friend just had his P5XLT bearings go out at about the same as yours.
I now have the engine for parts..

(I'm sure there'll be someone on here "to protect the brand" and flaming me like mad, but I only tell the truth. I have no sponsors so I don't care what vendors think.)

can you pull the bearing apart and show us where it is failing ? it is usually the steel balls have skidded out the outer race.....

No, I already threw it out. I didn't know you could even take them apart?

yes...taking them apart allows you very clearly to see what exactly went wrong...and if it is indeed a factory error or user error............

All you have to do is push the race out the back and the bearing will just click apart........taking them apart is easy, putting them back together is a little more difficult ......

My theory on bearings
 

Aside from crappy fuel that can eat up bearing quickly no matter what bearing it is I've noticed the rear nova bearings have changed the size of the balls and this allows them to cut into the races a bit more than normal and the bearings get really out of tolerance quickly. If you hold the new bearings in ur hand and hold the inside race with one hand and move the outside race around it has more radial movement after only a few gallons it's not good at all for the crank to be drifting around so much. I usually replace the rear bearing in all nova engines since the change. Front seems to be really good as usual. the TKO, avid, and protek rear bearings still use the larger balls and seem to have tighter tolerances than most others although I have not tried them all. I still use the nova front dual sealed bearings in all my engines.

Well it started out with the fact that I did not know you had to change clutch bearings often. My previous car had needle bearings and they lasted forever.
So it was starting to go and my flywheel unscrewed.
After my 1st race and about 1.5 to 1.75 gallons, I figured I would check all bearings, change diff fluid and so on.

While at it, why not inspect the motor...
So removed the backplate and I was checking the connecting rod by turning the crank I What seemed weird is that the crank seemed to move, not circularly but up and down.
After removing the crank, I found the rear bearing had excessive play...

Oh and is it normal that when the engine is cold and I remove the glow plug, I get very little resistance (pinch) at the top

BTW the fuel I use is the SideWinder Race blend and it has a mix or castor and synth at 12%

Oh yeah, I hate when anyone designs super small ball bearings for an application that has high rpms or high load.
My super old Kyosho inferno had really big balls in the bearings and in about 10 gallons of racing action, I never replaced 1 of them!!!

Is there a tool that's not too expensive that allows to remove the rear bearing easily?

I tried the oven and wood block method and it did not work. I ended up with the "slowly hit with small screwdriver" method

I have a stock p5xlt in my 8t 2.0. What is the best pipe to use? Im looking for good power but still want fuel mileage. thx in advance

I use the HUDY tool: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...w-14mm-Bearing

Also use a heat gun (or oven) on the crankcase to make pulling and installing the bearings a little easier.

2096SS/41021 is what I recommend.

:nod:

Hi guys,

I've a modded toro nero, and i think the bearings have to be replaced, may i ask what're the exact sizes of the front and rear bearings? Or there's a specific part no. for each bearing?
Btw, is there any good replacement instead of nova bearing?

Thanks a lot for any help i can get.

Just got mines replaced after breakin with tko bearings.

Front 7x19x6.3 Nova part # 17011
Rear 14.5x26x6 Nova part# 16003