1. Rear Bearing 14x25.8x6mm
2. Rear Bearing: 14.5x26x6mm

Both use NOVAROSSI 7X19X6.3 DUAL RUBBER SEALED FRONT BEARING # NOV17011

We recommend TKO ceramics if you are going aftermarket. Nov17011 for the front.

This might be a dumb Q but I'm not 100% sure on the answer. When setting the idle gap, you do it with the venture out of the carb correct?

Yes

What is the recommended idle gap for a Novarossi ?

.6mm I believe

Thank you very much for the advise.

Kelv

How do you accurately measure it?

You can crank the screw all the way in and then turn it out 1 and a quarter turn and you should be close. Or ive heard you can stick a paper clip in the idle gap and st adjust it to that width.

Hi there I have a bonito 7xl with ceramic rear bearing and have ordered the new keep off 7xl with ceramic rear bearing and was woundering what the difference is between the Two and what pipe people are using to have a smooth power band

So, another tuned pipe/manifold question.

I'm running a Beat B4 with a 41021/9901 combo. I don't give up anything to anybody on any parts of the track, but I'd like more top end. Switching to the short header should accomplish this, but will there be a noticeable decrease in torque down low? Should I be looking at other pipes?

Thanks.

putting the 41001 will give the engine more pop across the entire RPM range......I found it gave more snap down low, and a substantial increase in top end MPH.......it may not be as smooth as with the 41021, but withthe Plus 4 engines they can afford to have more kick as they are already quite smooth

Awesome, thanks.

So I switched from a 41021 and 9901 to 41001 and 9886. The new combo gave me the same lap times but with 45 seconds more runtime on a BTTS. The motor seemed smoother, and definitely faster on the top end. Our track doesn't have a lot of room to really stretch out a motor, but it was definitely moving faster at the end of the straight.

can you use 7x19x6 front bearings in place of the 7x19x6.3? what are the pros and cons of going with the smaller.

Yes, you can. Only the inner centre is 6.3 the outer ring is only 6.
So they're easier to install also, because if you use a pushing tool on the 6.3 it only pushed the centre and destroys the bearing.

So for me there's only pros. The cons would be that some people regard the 6.3mm 17011 as "the best bearing", so that's basicly it.

For me I'd rather have some regular 6's and replace them more frequently, they're cheaper too. (Nova bearing is one million bucks, while you can buy 4pcs 607 2RS of decent quality for $5)

Hey guys is there any particular trick to tunning with a 6mm insert? I am running an old 367 with a 9886/41021 and a 6mm carb, got 12 minutes out of the tank but I am having problems with high idle and 4 stroking.

The diff btwn the two is the main bearing and the crankcase (area around main bearing)...other than that the engines are the same. I don't have the KO 7xl but I do have a Bonito XLB and the smoothest combo I found was the 2084SS/41021.

No trick. The rule of thumb is the smaller the insert the more narrow a tuning window. When I've seen the symptom you mention its been too large an air gap with too rich LSN. Check the air gap (0.6mm) and re-tune the LSN especially if the 4 stroking is at idle.

Silicone filled crank
 

Hey Nova guys, here is a link to my ad for a 15009T Silicone filled crank - NEW!

Just thought I'd share. Nice upgrade or spare.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ne-filled.html

Who can tell me how to decipher the codes etched into the Nova crankshafts?
Asking because I have a couple of cranks and do not think they were the right ones that belonged to those engines.

+1

and the 9886/41001 give more run time than the 9901/41021 combo.

what can i expect from torn carburetor boot???
thanks in advance

Expect it to lean bog. Fix it immediatly.

it will run fine...but can ingest dirt thru the tear........ oh...if the slide is very worn the engine may also start to run very erratic....so definitely replace the boot sooner then later....

It will definately breathe through the boot. If you put the rubber cap on the intake of a carb, and the one on the fuel inlet, and you rotate the crank so the piston goes up and down, you will see the carb slide move in and out as the engine tries to inhale, so absolutely if you got a hole in the boot it will affect your tune negatively.

x100. even the tiniest pin hole will throw off the tune and lead to flameouts. This is one of the reasons my carbs get pressure tested under water regularly.

thanks for the very2 quick answer. i think that's why my 4btt can't run like she used to. i didn't notice it until i have a complete carb tear down, wich i rarely do.

What tools do you guys use for measuring idle gap? Piano wire?

small cable tie just put some calipers on it to check
as for a torn carb boot my symptons were rich as more air more fuel? you can also put a small cable tie on your boot to stop any movement
cheers

Which Nova to start with..
 

I'm ready to try a Novarossi. It will go in my MBX7 or 8ight 3.0 when it arrives.
I have run RB WS7, Ninja B01, old AXE Rossi Cobra. The RB was the best!
So..with budget of $450 for engine and pipe MAX.
P5XLT or Plus21-BTTA Tuned ??
Pipe looks like 2096/41021 ?

Pipes I have: JP-1, JP-4, RE-11

Suggestions please!

Sounds like the 9886/41001 may be a better choice.

What engine to get?

Nova 21-4 are the way to go

I really wanna give these a try. Nova based. http://www.neobuggy.net/2013/04/27/lucky-7-engines/

I would like to try a X3L or X5. Also Nova Based.

I'm running a novarossi plus .21 5k on my d812 at the moment I'm using a jammin jp3 pipe But I found a new Max power 2078/2011 pipe for a good price . Would that be a better pipe ?

is that the same as the 21-BTTA 4 port tuned in looking at?

i'll have a look, who makes them?

Fusion X made by Novarossi.
X3L super smooth throughout power band.
X5R more bottom end grunt, still just as smooth as X3L.

Fusion X3L is a great engine

honestly you cant beat a P5xlt in a buggy awesome power easy to tune and for $200 thats crazy:nod: