I have a couple here

Is there anyway of telling just by looking at the box the 2013's apart from the rest?

Negative ghostrider

Had me worried for a bit there Monty ran out to check the new bearing bag but got the 17004, also one thing with a ceramic rear bearing do you keep the seal on the bearing on the side that faces the front bearing?
Thanks

When i was talking of the front bearings and 5 i meant there were 5 different front bearing versions until they started putting 17011 in which im not sure how pricing didnt increase , i guess you guys are lucky

Which brand are you refering to ? Tko , i would leave both seals on as they dont seal too well otherwise , 17011 for the win !

For MBX7 users...

When building the clutch, I followed the manual but there was heaps of play on the clutch bell. To get the end play with slight movement, I had to add 7 of the 5x8x.01 shims that came with the kit on the inner bearing and 3 shims on the outer bearing. I did put the 3x8x.05 shim as well.

I've got a Nova 4BTTS, the clutch end play is correct but seems like a lot of shims on the inner bearing.

With my 8ight, I only had to use 1 shim for the inner and 2-3 on the outer bearing.

I guess that's how the Mugen is setup?

Hi guys,

I'm running a toro nero in my mbx7, but it seems the run time is too short at 8 mins, running c6gtc plug(the weather is hot here), so can i run the o'donnell 99T plug? I think it's a cold plug right? Will a colder plug add some run times(i've read somewhere here that it would)?
And one more thing, i'm now using the blue venturi in my carb, what will happen if i take out the venturi and use non at all? Am i right that i'll lose a bit of low end power? And will it also help with run times?

Sorry for so many questions, thanks a lot in advance for any advice i can get, cheers...

Richen hsn three hours and work on leaning lsn and idle


Mugen clutch guy , whatever you have to do is what you have to do , however many shims is however many shims , all is good

Mugen clutch, do you use the washer between the flywheelcone and front brearing If not you need to use a lot of shims, its normal.

How will the 2096 pipe and 41021 manifold work on a p5? My last race I was using a 9901 pipe and 41021 manifold but it seemed like it just didnt have a whole lot of bottom or top end

got a ? yesterday i was at the track and was having problems tuning motor it always seemed like bottom end was lean. it had that 3-4 second high idle rev when letting off the gas. now with that being said it was only like 30 degrees out and i was running a c6tgc. would have went hotter to see if that was the problem but i did not have any nova plugs and shop only had the c6tgc. could this be why i would be having the brief erratic high idle?

30F??.. man thats cold... have to richen motor lots at that temp..

yea 30 f. it was cold and needles were turned out haha. I never ran in that temp before so just curios.

Where did you run Jesse?

I didnt use the washer behind the flywheel, coming from an 8ight, the mbx7 flywheel seemed to stick out a lot so I didnt use the washer.

So what would be better, to have the washer behind the flywheel and use less shims inside the bell in the inner bearing or leave as it.
From a maintenance/failure point of view, which would last longer, thinking the 0.1mm shims may need changing more often?

I was having this same problem with a P5. Lean the bottom and lower the idle is what worked for me. It got a lot better once the motor was loosened up a bit.

From a maintenance standpoint it is much easier to use a washer behind the flywheel than a bunch of little shims under the bell.

a lean HSN can cause that

Thanks a lot for the heads up houston, but is it right if i change the plug to a colder one(like the o'donnell 99T that i mentioned)?
Also, what's gonna be the effect if i take out the venturi and use non(using the blue one right now)?

Take out the Venturi will make it burn more fuel. You can use a smaller Venturi. I would try what Houston said first I think your 6 plug is fine.

Thanks a ton for the quick heads up revo61, so aside from what houston said, using a smaller venturi is another way of gaining run time? And is the smaller venturi giving me more low end power?

Got in a few 2032 pipes, they are the SS Crono pipes, and have the reinforced stinger as well. A lot thicker than the EDIT or JP 2032's still floating around, and are a good bit cheaper. :nod:

I do not use the shim behind the flywheel. Some time ago, fore some reasson i used a lot of front enginebearings. Shim got cone somehow and damaged the front seal on the bearing. Was not the mugen clutch, but i still do not use the shim

Lcrc rob. Dont think it wad a lean high speed needle

I'm racing there sat.

monty are the novarossi's coming with the 24069 carb now??? just got a bonito and it came with the 24069...5.4 installed there is a 6, 6.5 and 7 as well... what can you tell me about this carb....those are really small inserts

Agree... The large mugen shim can do this

Behind flywheel, use shims that are same OD as inner race of front engine bearing. Shims behind flywheel are needed on mbx7 to center clutch bell to center diff gear.

I have used the OFNA shim kit for years without having any of the problems you guys are talking about. It has a ton of good shims and it is cheap.

i'm using a team c flywheel,clutch and bell on a bonito and have no end play in the bell. in fact it sticks pretty bad with the clutch bell bolt tightened down. This is with no shims. What to do?

That is a good way to go. I think that ofna kit even has washers for clutch shoe pins. The mugen shim OD is larger than OD of inner race of front engine bearing. As am said, it can curl over the bearing race causing it to spin bearing seal and eventually cause problems.

The Buku shims woks good

Lol i used to HATE those Ofna shim kits to death, Back in the day Our LHS refused to bring in Standard 5x8 shims for clutch bells, So you were forced to buy a couple packs of OFN10099 General Ofna Shims which only came with like 3-4 Actual clutch shims, The rest are pretty much useless due to Size and shape.

+1

Hmm
 

if you mean no clutch shims and no shims behind the flywheel I would do the old kyosho trick and grind down the clutch nut just a small amount on the side facing the flywheel until it clears enough to use at least 2 shims, you could also take a bit off the bell side too, but be careful and make sure it's flat.

Not every shim is useful, but there are quite a few useful ones for behind the flywheel. They definitely don't include enough shims for under the clutchbell.

if u want Bulk for 5x8 shims use these. I still have a Stack from back in the day when they were.....well...Cheaper.:lol:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Kit-5x8x03mm

For Fine Tuning the end play in your Clutch, Use these.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...5x7mm-Shim-Set

When that happens I use a few 3x5 shims on the screw or sometimes just a losi stepped clutch washer works if you don't need a lot. It's the STD washer for the end of the clutch. I don't know the real name or part number.

Looking to smooth out the midrange power if my 21+4, running it in a buggy with a dynamite 053 pipe, would a 9901 or another pipe help this? bottom and top end are fine, its just a little " peaky " in transition between the two.

2096 = awesome

Hudy bearing puller?
 

I have a btt that I need bearings changed. Local hobby shop didn't have the correct bearing puller. Does the hudy come with everything I need? I also need bearings for it....what are the sizes, I can't seem to find the correct ones.