The same thing happened to my +4 Josh. Right at the 1 gallon mark. The place I bought it from is currently speaking with Nova to try and get me a replacement.

really? Hmm, I hadn't seen that failure before. Interesting:eek:

Hmmmm I have never seen a cast piston do this inside 7-8 gallons unless engine was being broke in with the WOT ultra rich method or over reving of the engine occured before break in was complete or there was an upper rod bushing failure which is pretty unlikely with the R7 rod or wrist pin breaking in half very very very seldom have I seen this and is usually caused by the aforementioned rod bushing . I have seen and sold more than a thousand novarossi engines I am sure of that .

Btw , that piston looks very very burnt on the underside , thats interesting cause a)either you are using old nitrotane or b) theres much more than a quart through the engine :confused::weird:

Curious as to what fuel you were using?

it's shiny, just a combo of the room lighting plus the flash made some areas darker (you can see there are multiple shadows)

Mine was completely broken in, always pre-heated and I never use fuel without Castor oil in it. My internals look brand new except for the broken piston and metal scraps all over it :cry:

Looks like this engine should be in a monster truck. Little much for a truggy or buggy is it not?

Really?

That is definitely not "the norm" with the cast pistons :confused:

Curious to know what you happened to make them do that for sure , wonder if you guys
Both did something common?

Yes way too much for a Buggy, but simply awesome in a Truggy ! ...Tho the engine does make big power it is not a light switch at all, it only gets nasty if you want it to...It finds traction like no other truggy engine I have run..doesn't matter if the surface is loose or 100% traction this engine carves up the technical sections unlike anything else...With the ultra long stroke the powerband starts at a very low RPM, which gives it amazing trigger feel and control in the low end.....Has almost a 4 stroke feel in how effortless the engine pulls from the bottom end, which IMO makes it wicked in a Truggy....No other .21 I have ever seen has anything like the Bottom end we are seeing from these engines ..... Even on loose surfaces these engines will still find enough traction to yank the front off the ground...The ultra long stroke gives them something special that has to be felt to be appreciated ! They seem to be able to put more power to the ground with less tire spin then a more conventional shorter stroke engine of similar power.....

agree 100%, my PowerHouse Toro Nero team is the same way

help in understanding engine choices
 

hoping someone can explain how theese three engines will preform on the track.

p3xs

p5xlt

21-4

all seem to use the same rod and bearings, so i'm assuming quality of the three is close. i prefer the engine to acclerate quickly, and have enough torque to get the wheels spinning as i prefer to drift/ powerslide through the corners.
thanks in advance mark

My carb is sticking when it gets halfway open, I took it apart but can't see any thing wrong... Help!

P5XLT is the one you want based on what your describing...... especially so if it is Clocked ! ;)

Change it to a Novarossi carb!!! :p

Sorry... ;)

Make sure the wire connection to the throttle servo are straight. Is it sticking when the engine are out of the car?

What car are you running?

Call me later I will help you try and fix it otp

5035446624

thanks for the response neal.

what carb insert have you got in that ?

I have run from a 6.5 all the way to a 9 mm........I believe in that video it is running a 7.5

I just finish breakin my plus4T and having trouble with the tuning.It have 3 stage idle.First after reving it will go straight to a good idle and then the idle rise up for about 6-7 sec and came down to a good idle again.Ive try to put my p5 in the same car and tune was perfect.Thats mean nothing wrong with my fuel tank,hose and anything got to do with the car.One of my friend has the exact same problem with his plus4btt with same pipe[9901/021) and ive try to tune it without sucsess.Its runs good on the track tho but just cant get rid of the 3 stage idle..weird!:confused:Can someone help me please?

How much fuel through it so far? Use a Novarossi C6TGC or C5TGC in cold outdoor temperatures. I prefer O'Donnell 77T in a Team and normal Plus4 after a few gallons otherwise I'm having problems with 2 stage idle and flame outs. 0,7 mm shim when running 25% nitro and stock shimming with 30% nitro.
If the engine are broken in, it sounds like too rich bottom and perhaps an out of tune top. Warm up the engine and set the HSN a little rich.

Try the Bernard Durand way here:

http://vimeo.com/7595905

Had that very problem the other day with my 4btt, 2 stage idle and flame outs, re did the hsn and then reset the lsn now runs like a demon.

Very impressive once you get the tune right how well these novas hold a tune.

I had the same issue with my R21 Nitrotec(Very similar to +4) and two stage idle but even with the two stage it ran great and would idle forever. I finally tuned it out of the two stage idle by leaning the bottom until it starts to idle high then back off your idle screw until it is where you like it. I also had to richen top a little because after wot it idles normal for a couple seconds and then drops to 4 stroke idle. The odonnell 97t is also part of the reason I was getting two stage idle and because it's to rich on bottom and to big of a idle gap. I retuned and switched to 77t plugs now it idles perfect! Good Luck!

Thanks for the replys guys!I appreciate it but my problem is 3 stage idle not 2 stage idle.Ive broken in 5 engines so far and never had this problem.2 stage idle is normal when the lsn is a little rich.The idle came straight down after high rev like it should be when lsn is set right but then it rise up for 6-7sec before it came down to normal idle again.No flame out what so ever and running temp is good.i know this is a great engine because i ran nova p5xlt this year and it served me very well.Anyway i might try diff glow plug and play with the shim a little more and see what happen...

This is my setup same as my p5xlt
Glow plug odonell 97t
Fuel Sidewinder 25%
Pipe Losi re12
Shim .70

usually too lean lsn for compression ratio/timing ,(shimming and the heat range of plug) , try richening lsn 3 hrs , adjust the idle gap and start from there


change your odonnell plugs often !!! they will wreak havoc with your tune if you do not , i would suggest c5tgc personally



hope this helps :tire:

Currently Im running 25% fuel, can I run 30% in my plus4 btt without having to shim the head?

Yes no issues at all

Awesome, cheers for that houston.

Raced the btt yesterday for the first time, ran flawless for 5 rounds other than a little air leak on the manifold gasket, no flame outs, droped its nuts at the start of the first race. The track was very loose and dusty, was amazed how controlable and progressive the power was. We only had 5min heats with a 5min warmup, no amain (sprint series), pulling that off with only tank and still 3odd mm of fuel still in the tank, looking lke a good 10min + run time. Stoked with this new motor.

looking for some suggestions to smooth the powerband on my 21+4, the engine has great all around power, but seems to be a terror in the midrange, running a 053 pipe and long manifold for the mbx 6, 6.5 restrictor, temps at 220, getting 10 min per tank, really dont want to lean this engine out much more since it already is a handfull, I have tried adding expo to my throttle and tuned the servo speed down, it helped a little but am really struggling on tight tracks, would a 9901 pipe help? any other choices?

9901 with short manifold...

pipe is more for truggy but you can tame it down with the clutch , try two aluminum shoes with 1.0mm springs and 1 carbon/plastic with .9mm orrrrrr give the werks clutch a try , its great and last a good long while


but yes the 9901ss/41021 pipe/header will be wayyyyyyy smoother than what you got going on now ;)

Hello novarossi racers!

I guess im a newer guy with nitrotec losi/novarossi motor. I just acquired this motor today and i have a few questions. It is brand new!

-can it be ran in a 1/8 buggy with 30% fuel?
-what is the best low end pipe? mid range?
-easy to tune?
-how long does break in take and what do i need to do. (i am new to nitro, this is my first engine)
-is this a good beginner engine?

RE 12 and Werks 2058 pipes
 

Hi all,
Care to share with me some feedbacks with regards to both of the pipes. Ive tested both pipes on a Plus 4C. The 2058 seems to awesome. A lot of grunt on the bottom end. Top end power was awesome too. The Losi RE12 which is known to be similar to the 9901 seems to hv a slightly less power on both the bottom and top end power. But power transition from the mid to top range is smoother. Im using 30% maxima fuel and C6tgc plugs. Anyone who had tried both the pipes care to share wirh me if their opinions are the same? Or perhaps the needles are not tweaked properly. Thanks

What engine did you get?

I am new to nitro and just baught a Novarossi Plus4 BTT to ru n in my buggy, I asked that very question in a earlier post about 30% fuel and for my motor was yes.
I run the 9901ss/41021 pipe/manifold very smooth power delivery with this combo.
One of the best things I noticed about my new nova was how easy it was to tune.
All you info for breakin came be found here
http://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-...eak-bible.html
As I mentioned before the ease of tuning is a very good for a beginner in nitro, proberly the only down side is getting use to the gobs of power the engines make, but that is a good thing.

I got a new BTTS with less than 2 gallons of fuel through it. The rust was not present when she was new. Opened her up yesterday and saw some rust on the crank shalf :(

I had her for 2 weeks, ran her everyday and rust is still present. I do not put in after run oil after my runs. Anyone care to comment on the rust came about? There goes more $$$ :(

thanks for all your forth coming responses.

the rust i believe comes from fuel that is left in the engine. the nitro draws water into the engine as it evaporates. its a good idea to burn all fuel in the engines after running for the day and add after run oil.

I have one with 5 gallons on it and love it! I have a Ninja and it is dusty because my R21 is smoother/longer runtime 13 min./ holds a tune/ and has decent power with RE10 and alum. flywheel. It is a pretty good beginner engine but care needs to be taken during break-in I used the heat cycle method for two quarts but metal pinch didn't go away until 1 1/2 gallon and just got better over time. Yes 30% and running in buggy is fine but I would use something with a little castor oil during break-in like Bryons 11% and the Losi RE10 works great with Nitrotec with 7mm venturi but any of the Losi pipes work well. If you break it in right it will last forever! Good Luck!

thanks all! re11 or re10 pipe? with the r21

Ok
 

Take it easy.
It's really difficult to prevent rust on the crank and bearings I've noticed.

It's not a deal breaker to have a little bit of surface rust on the crank though. I usually remove the crank and give it a good buffing with a wire dremel wheel. it works quickly. Stay away from the crank pin though.

While I have the crank out of the engine I like to spray denatured alcohol inside the case and reinstall the crank and spin it and then remove it and blast out the inside with air...then repeat...When all the parts are cleaned then oil everything liberally and put it back together. making sure to drop a little oil in that front bearing from the inside..it should be fine...

Make sure and put oil inside the engine after every race day. It takes more oil than you think to coat the crank.

At the end of EVERY raceday drive into the pit...:rolleyes:
At idle remove the fuelline from the carburator and wait until the engine stops.
Try to start the engine severel times with the glowdriver on the plug until you can't hear any ignitions.
Many guys then remove the airfilter and add some afterrun oil in the carb. I don't.. ;):
Get yourself a 5 ml disposable syringe and put a piece of fuelline on it. Put AFO in the syringe.
Now, open the throttle and pres ½ ml AFO through the nozzle.
Press car down to the startbox and turn the engine for approx. 5 sec. with both WOT and closed throttle.
Like before add ½ ml AFO and turn the engine once more.
You now have a fully protected engine against rust and accid.

Benefits for adding AFO through the nozzle: You don't have the risk of getting dirt in the carb compared to through the venturi.
You'll get the job done very fast and don't have to reasample the filter.

Cons: If you use a thick AFO you from time to time has to turn the HSN ½ out before next start. The thick oil reduses the flow through the carb, that gives a lean setting for the first coupple of minutes. After that you just have to turn the needle back and finetune the HSN for the right tune.

Thanks Houston..havent try the c5tgc plug yet.Will oder some:nod:

Used to get rust on bearings and crank before I STOPPED running the fuel/oil out of the engine ;)

Routine now is to dump excess fuel out of tank and let engine cool naturally, no aro !

Using byrons gen 2 fuels , pro driver or race 3000 have PLENTY of oil left in the crankcase and NO RUST :nod:

If you do prefer to run fuel out and use aro I recommend rbmods aro and plenty of it ;)