NOVAROSSI Engine thread....
#271
last year i ran a 08 plus 4 with 9901 40210 what ever header the team told me to run. the to me did not seem to have alot bottom just a lil mid and never lit on fire and took of.
what dose the plus4c do better and if i dont run that 9901 pipe what can i run i need some motor if i dont have more then i need i stand on the trigger and my millage gose out the door any help would be great.
also i found that the standered plug made more power any reason why?
is the p5 better then the plus 4c?
what dose the plus4c do better and if i dont run that 9901 pipe what can i run i need some motor if i dont have more then i need i stand on the trigger and my millage gose out the door any help would be great.
also i found that the standered plug made more power any reason why?
is the p5 better then the plus 4c?
#272
last year i ran a 08 plus 4 with 9901 40210 what ever header the team told me to run. the to me did not seem to have alot bottom just a lil mid and never lit on fire and took of.
what dose the plus4c do better and if i dont run that 9901 pipe what can i run i need some motor if i dont have more then i need i stand on the trigger and my millage gose out the door any help would be great.
also i found that the standered plug made more power any reason why?
is the p5 better then the plus 4c?
what dose the plus4c do better and if i dont run that 9901 pipe what can i run i need some motor if i dont have more then i need i stand on the trigger and my millage gose out the door any help would be great.
also i found that the standered plug made more power any reason why?
is the p5 better then the plus 4c?
call me and we can BS
not right now though
#273
yeah the 9901 pipe almost led to me looking at other options but i have faith in the motors.
start the year of right new car new motors now would the dang ups man show up
#274
ENGINE RUN IN
use a heat gun to heat to 200 before you start at each step
You will have to play with the needles a little bit and cover the head of your engine with a pit rag (or similar)
do 3 heat cycles within the first tank at 190-210 degrees (3-5 min. intervals),
at idle on stand? yes.
then run it around on the ground gently only slightly rich keeping the temp between 210-230 (monitoring temps frequently ) careful not to let the engine get into its powerband , do this for about 1 full tank at a time but do not let it run out of fuel .do this for 3 tanks (cooling in between tanks), quarter throttle or so with short blips of more (full) throttle ..
not fast? slow pulls on the throttle in 30-40ft bursts .
then richen the needles a bit and run it about 190-210 on the track for 3 straight tanks monitoring temps frequently(every 2 laps) for the first couple of minutes until the engine runs at a consistent temp and feel.(start to lean out slowly)when you get it tuned in to where its not totally screaming but you have enough power to make the jumps with a slight bog at full throttle and runs at about 210-230, let it cool
(check the plug at this point),
what am I looking for exactly on the plug ? make sure the plug still glows and looks new, if it looks all distorted pull it out as you dont want a plug filament to go through the engine
go out and run the rest of the gallon til the engine richens up dramatically on its own and the temp drops instantly (i call it "dropping its nuts"). this process sometimes takes more than a full gallon .hope this helps ya , pretty detailed
I have had great success with this method and longevity , monty
www.houstonsengineservice.com
use a heat gun to heat to 200 before you start at each step
You will have to play with the needles a little bit and cover the head of your engine with a pit rag (or similar)
do 3 heat cycles within the first tank at 190-210 degrees (3-5 min. intervals),
at idle on stand? yes.
then run it around on the ground gently only slightly rich keeping the temp between 210-230 (monitoring temps frequently ) careful not to let the engine get into its powerband , do this for about 1 full tank at a time but do not let it run out of fuel .do this for 3 tanks (cooling in between tanks), quarter throttle or so with short blips of more (full) throttle ..
not fast? slow pulls on the throttle in 30-40ft bursts .
then richen the needles a bit and run it about 190-210 on the track for 3 straight tanks monitoring temps frequently(every 2 laps) for the first couple of minutes until the engine runs at a consistent temp and feel.(start to lean out slowly)when you get it tuned in to where its not totally screaming but you have enough power to make the jumps with a slight bog at full throttle and runs at about 210-230, let it cool
(check the plug at this point),
what am I looking for exactly on the plug ? make sure the plug still glows and looks new, if it looks all distorted pull it out as you dont want a plug filament to go through the engine
go out and run the rest of the gallon til the engine richens up dramatically on its own and the temp drops instantly (i call it "dropping its nuts"). this process sometimes takes more than a full gallon .hope this helps ya , pretty detailed
I have had great success with this method and longevity , monty
www.houstonsengineservice.com
What do you mean by "do 3 heat cycles with in the first tank"
#275
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,905
From: SOMEWHERE LUVIN ME SOME RC
Just speaking from what I've seen houston post. He means 3 times during the first tank get the mtr running at the temps he said idle for a bit. Then cut he mtr off cool down to ambient temp. 5-7 minutes of idle time. That's what I do anyways. Hope that helps.
#276
#277
Tech Regular
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 422
So picked up a 21-4C, so far real nice sounding motor. Quick question, after break in I flushed the motor, but the carb doesn't seem to want to re-seat. It sits on the O-ring around the carb throat. I seem to remember when I moved it earlier it wasn't sitting on the O-Ring. So question is... O-Ring out or should it be down the throat a bit?
#278
So picked up a 21-4C, so far real nice sounding motor. Quick question, after break in I flushed the motor, but the carb doesn't seem to want to re-seat. It sits on the O-ring around the carb throat. I seem to remember when I moved it earlier it wasn't sitting on the O-Ring. So question is... O-Ring out or should it be down the throat a bit?
btw , did you happen to flush the engine with some kind of cleaner and swell the oring?
#281
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 27
Hi
First of all sorry for my poor english.
I need a new engine for my truggy.
I am considering 21-4 or P5XLT, but I can not really find out what would be the best. I prefer stable idle, good run times and reliability. Last season I ran with Sirio CL7B it lives up to the first two things but not the last.
I hope you can help me.
First of all sorry for my poor english.
I need a new engine for my truggy.
I am considering 21-4 or P5XLT, but I can not really find out what would be the best. I prefer stable idle, good run times and reliability. Last season I ran with Sirio CL7B it lives up to the first two things but not the last.
I hope you can help me.
#282
Hi
First of all sorry for my poor english.
I need a new engine for my truggy.
I am considering 21-4 or P5XLT, but I can not really find out what would be the best. I prefer stable idle, good run times and reliability. Last season I ran with Sirio CL7B it lives up to the first two things but not the last.
I hope you can help me.
First of all sorry for my poor english.
I need a new engine for my truggy.
I am considering 21-4 or P5XLT, but I can not really find out what would be the best. I prefer stable idle, good run times and reliability. Last season I ran with Sirio CL7B it lives up to the first two things but not the last.
I hope you can help me.
#283
Both engines tune and run very well. The P5 has a nicer port timing profile on the sleeve but smaller exhaust surface area so it tends to make more torque but the Plus 4 will out perform the P5 on top. The Plus 4 has better crank timing profiles than the P5 which will also make it perform better up top. Both engines work well in a truggy with the proper setup. However, a nicely modified P5 will put perform the Plus 4 in every department including run time and will last as long or longer than the Plus 4. My race ported P5 costs about the same money as a stock Plus 4 and will have more power all around, will be very easy to tune, will get 10-12 minutes of runtime in a truggy and will last 12 gallons if treated properly. My race ported Plus 4 runs side by side with the P5. I have both engines in stock in either stock or modified trim so if you are interested, shoot me a pm.
#285
based on my personal experience..
053 for small to medium,086 for larger open stretched tracks.
the jp2 is also a all purpose bad ass pipe on the p5 but run times may suffer a bit,if your not worried about fuel economy try the jp2.
053 for small to medium,086 for larger open stretched tracks.
the jp2 is also a all purpose bad ass pipe on the p5 but run times may suffer a bit,if your not worried about fuel economy try the jp2.



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