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Old 01-08-2010 | 05:54 PM
  #196  
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Originally Posted by PowerHouse
Are you getting heat guns from the dollar store?? The heaters are only $65. Not sure what heat gun you are getting for $8 but it sounds like a scary device Hope someone has fire insurance when that $8 heat gun fires up. Does it spark and make shooting noises too? I might have seen one of those in the dollar bin at Valu
i get dealer cost on everything


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at the dollar tree
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Old 01-08-2010 | 06:22 PM
  #197  
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Originally Posted by houston
buggy? or truggy?


buggy - p5xlt , .80mm shim ( the newer p5xlt come shimmed at .80mm already) , 9886/41021 and 6.5-7mm restrictor will make great power and yield good runtimes . if you wanna focus on more runtime try a 9901ss/41005 setup if you want more torque and more runtime try the 9901ss or 9853ss/41021

truggy - p5xlt , .80mm shim (.75mm if more torque needed) , 9853ss/41005 , if you need extra extra punch use 41021 and 7-8mm restrictor depending


hope this helps you speedy,
monty


btw , the p5 is a great engine and mannnnyyyy engines are based off of the specs on this engine
Thanks houston iv always heard good things about the P5. How is the power compared to the C6 which is also a 5 port engine. Is the Fms also a good runtime engine. Sorry for not saying which car buggy and before u say it Yes i love HP LOL. Thanks again speedy
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Old 01-08-2010 | 06:53 PM
  #198  
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Houston, Good info here, thanks
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Old 01-08-2010 | 06:54 PM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by Speedyrob
Thanks houston iv always heard good things about the P5. How is the power compared to the C6 which is also a 5 port engine. Is the Fms also a good runtime engine. Sorry for not saying which car buggy and before u say it Yes i love HP LOL. Thanks again speedy
then you need an FMS in your buggy




that would be a handful


the c6 has a little different design that thing is an rpm animal
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Old 01-08-2010 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ck960
Houston, Good info here, thanks
i can only try
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Old 01-08-2010 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by houston
i can only try
i think i just need to read more here in this thread to know what i need
btw what is FMS engine? some mod Nova??
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Old 01-08-2010 | 07:04 PM
  #202  
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Originally Posted by ck960
i think i just need to read more here in this thread to know what i need
btw what is FMS engine? some mod Nova??
http://www.novarossiusa.com/product_...roducts_id=904


http://www.houstonsengineservice.com...3eafe3c4377794


this an fms
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Old 01-08-2010 | 07:17 PM
  #203  
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I want about the same power as the C6 its very handy when i need it just want to come in 10min w/ out a second guess. I here people say they get a easy 11-12min runtime w/ the fms. I dont have to have stupid power just want great runtime and power all around. If i get a P5 do i have to put a +4 crank in it to be a beast?
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Old 01-08-2010 | 07:24 PM
  #204  
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the FMS in my own little opinion is stronger than the C6..it is like putting a 28 in a buggy
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Old 01-08-2010 | 07:24 PM
  #205  
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Default What about the toro nero?

It would be nice in a buggy with the right stuff. 9086 or 9853 pipe with short header. My 367 was sick in buggy. Pulled all the way down the strait, plenty of torque, but I had trouble keeping it lit, Is the toro nero easier to keep running? I never took shims out though. I was running stock shims, and a medium mc-8. Any advice to toro nero racers running standard plugs. Is their differences in the 367 and nero? The 367 was nice because it was smooth and wasn't a lightswitch. Perfect powerband. I'm sure they have fixed any issues with flames, but I'm sure you would know Monty, or anyone else?
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Old 01-08-2010 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by merdith6
It would be nice in a buggy with the right stuff. 9086 or 9853 pipe with short header. My 367 was sick in buggy. Pulled all the way down the strait, plenty of torque, but I had trouble keeping it lit, Is the toro nero easier to keep running? I never took shims out though. I was running stock shims, and a medium mc-8. Any advice to toro nero racers running standard plugs. Is their differences in the 367 and nero? The 367 was nice because it was smooth and wasn't a lightswitch. Perfect powerband. I'm sure they have fixed any issues with flames, but I'm sure you would know Monty, or anyone else?
Same porting but it all changes when you change the bore and stroke of an engine , even the shimming , I think that was overlooked :-)
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Old 01-09-2010 | 10:40 AM
  #207  
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my toro nero is a real bear when i first start it up. it acts like it is super rich but runs good when it warms up. i run a od97t ,byrons 25%, 41021/9901, hsn 1/8 turn in from flush,lsn 3/4 turn out from flush, .6 mm idle gap, 6.5 insert @ 20 degree ambient temp. i don't think it is because of the cold weather because my plus 4 does not do this. any thoughts???
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Old 01-09-2010 | 10:49 AM
  #208  
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Sometimes a sign of shimmed too high.

Could be lack of compression causing you to keep the engine a little richer to keep some oil in the cylinder to keep the volume in the combustion chamber down to raise compression. Just my opinion :-)

that's why fuel with higher oil content usually feels a little more punchy :-)


Try reshimming to .70mm , you will have to purchase 03001xl shim pack.
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Old 01-09-2010 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by PowerHouse
You are absolutely right about the air filter and the flow through the intake manifold. The main reason I don't really talk much about it (I guess I should so we'll talk about it now) is because the air filters and the style and shape of the intake manifolds are for the most part pretty straight forward. You will less likely have problems with airflow to the engine than selecting the wrong pipe and /or having the wrong tune. The airfilter as you mentioned can certainly affect an engines perfromance, not so much on these engines with the length and shape of the manifiold but more with the filter density and oil thickness in the filter. I have seen 280hp 1000cc pro stock drag engines loss over 80hp because the oil on the K&N filters was too thick and the engine couldn't breath. The same could happen in these engines so you are definately right about bringing that up and it is a very good point to make to use a good filter and filter oil in order to maximize airflow but also keep the foreign debris out. I myself use the mugen round filter that came stock on the MBX5 series cars and it may come on the 6 series but I don't know since I don't run them. The main reasons are 1) good density foam but very breathable and 2) $9 for 4 filters instead of $4 per filter through xray. I also use PJ1 filter cleaner and filter treatment on them (the same treatment used on dirtbike air filters). It works very well as there is no signs of dirt entering into the engine through the filter. The inside of the filter is perfectly clean even when the outside is completely filthy. I usually change my filter several times a race weekend to keep the engine breathing properly and running strong. Even though the dirt and debris stay out of the engine doesn't mean the filter is getting clogged and not allowing the engine to breath properly. If you are good about keeping the filter changed out on a regular basis, use a good filter and filter treatment, the engine will perform just fine in most situations. I know K&N makes a small filter that will fit the carbs we use but I wouldn't trust the filter in offroad conditions. I had a couple of them in the past and while they breath great, they also let alot of smaller particals through causing premature engine wear and sometimes catostrophic failures. Companies like Losi sell a 4 pack of pre treated filters for like $6 and alot of people seem very happy with their overall performance and engine protection against foreign debris. I haven't run them myself but from a standpoint, they look like a good buy for the money.

I did some very crude comparison testing yesterday with the FMS so my results may not stand. I found that Novarossi did install the best overall performing venturi (6.5mm) in the FMS. I tried the 7.5mm and lost some bottom-end and developed a studder in the upper top-end. The 7mm was not
as smooth as the 6.5mm venturi, but a bit more punchier (more bottom-end)
and screamed just as hard on the top. If you have a heavy trigger finger the
6.5mm is the way to go; Lighter finger 7mm; the one I'll be using. I also tried an on-road styled short straight air filter connector on an off-road air filter. The
engine seemed to run smoother rev freer and sound happier. Of course without the body and probably not a good idea in hot weather. I think some
companies are making shorter than standard elbows, this may help. The testing I did was up and down my street not at a track so take it for what it's worth. (NR FMS, 9901/41021, OD#97t, OD 25%, Motor Saver buggy air filter)

P/S just curious what set-up are other people using on the FMS?

Last edited by topcat-lll; 01-09-2010 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 01-09-2010 | 07:51 PM
  #210  
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Did some more testing the the N21R 3 Port today. Found this to produce the best power and runtime:

-Nova 9886 Pipe
-Jammin Smooth Round Header
-OD 100 Plug
-6.5mm Restrictor

I did 2 back to back timed runs. Ran out at 11:05 and 11:07. Out of fuel at 198, and 40 Degrees for the Outside Temp. Running Sidewinder Prototype Fuel as well. I love this little engine. Next up, Plus 4C!
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