I have a buddy with a re10. I'll try that. Thanks! BTW , isnt the RE10 supposedly a close equivalent to the 086 or is it the RE11?

...........................

And use a 6 mm venturi

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...buretor-Insert

I'll try that too. Thanks!

yes I break it

How much fuel is thru it ?

Holycrap it is taking for ever to break this BTT in. I have something like 34 tanks on it and it is still detroying my starter box wheel. I sure hope it is worth it in the end. I would love to race it but it seems down on power still too.

Seems like someone isn't preheating...

Or you've got a bad starter box

34 tanks is about 20 beyond where the engine will start running nicely

Never run OS plugs in a Novarossi. Taper is different; now that you have seated an OS plug into the button, you may have to buy a new button.

Use 0.80mm total head shim stack. .30/.30/.20 for 30% nitro.

Use 0.75mm for 25% or 0.70 for 20%

Use Novarossi C6TGC glowplug, or OD77T; or OD97T. C6TGC preferred; otherwise start with 77T.

I assume you meant 41029 manifold for Mugen?

Pair with 9901 pipe.

Remove fuel tank from vehicle. Pressure test the tank in a soapy water solution (submerge tank). Place finger over fuel pickup, apply pressure by blowing on the pressure line. Observe results to see if any bubbles are seen escaping the tank. Any kind of air leak will cause tuning issues.

Run all fresh pressure/fuel lines on the car.

Replace all clutch shoes and ensure they are operating properly.

The following statements are based on running the engine in a 1/8th buggy on a typical dirt-track in a racing environment...and the engine being broken in (at least 2-quarts of fuel or more).

6.5mm carb insert.

Place LSN 1/8th turn in from flush.
Place HSN 1/2 turn in from flush.

Set idle speed to have 0.50mm air gap (set with restrictor removed), or start the engine and adjust it accordingly once warmed up to operating temp on the starter box. (I'm betting it's way off).

Once running at operating temp, adjust the HSN until proper performance is achieved. With a head temp of 220F- 260F; the idle speed should be stable and fairly low.

BTT has slightly more top end and midrange while being a touch softer in the bottom compared to the 4Team. Otherwise they're nearly identical.

Personally, I would not run a ceramic front bearing due to dirt intrusion. The steel balls take the abuse slightly better than ceramics, which hate any kind of dirt; but that's your call. I'd run steel in front.

9901/41021 still the setup to use.

Heat gun and a mugen box. It is still so tight. Right now I am thinking it may not like the Werks Clutch. I'm gonna try a regular three shoe and she if she wakes up. The clutch is the only thing I have not changed or tried yet.

some fuels are horrible for breakin...OD fuel for example lubricates soo well that engines take forever to loosen up.......breakin times can be doubled just by what fuels you use,,,,

Never run OS plugs in a Novarossi. Taper is different; now that you have seated an OS plug into the button, you may have to buy a new button.

Use 0.80mm total head shim stack. .30/.30/.20 for 30% nitro. I had 0,80mm, but the plugs become broken, but I will test again

Use 0.75mm for 25% or 0.70 for 20% Ok I will test, i used to run 25%

Use Novarossi C6TGC glowplug, or OD77T; or OD97T. C6TGC preferred; otherwise start with 77T.

I assume you meant 41029 manifold for Mugen? Yes

Pair with 9901 pipe.

Remove fuel tank from vehicle. Pressure test the tank in a soapy water solution (submerge tank). Place finger over fuel pickup, apply pressure by blowing on the pressure line. Observe results to see if any bubbles are seen escaping the tank. Any kind of air leak will cause tuning issues. , Ok I will do it

Run all fresh pressure/fuel lines on the car.

Replace all clutch shoes and ensure they are operating properly.
I will check all, but I dont have any issue with my other engine


Another test will be the short manifold for mugen

It's not the Werks clutch unless it's worn, hanging or setup improperly.

I've run the Werks setup with two different spring setups; both work very well. The Werks clutch comes with 4-aluminum shoes and killer strong springs installed right out of the bag. If that's how youre using it on a Buggy, it's not going to work as nice as it should.

I'm running the "medium" flywheel.

2-carbon
2-aluminum

I've run it with all greens springs (which I think are 1.0mm, I forget). This is a good, soft setup that is fine for most tracks, some may not like it because it's not very "punchy" in the bottom end, but it doesn't spin either, which helps with mileage, tire wear, etc. I run on a tight, short, slick track and I make all our jumps with ease. No need for a looser clutch really.

The other setup I used was Carbon/Green; Aluminum/Silver (1.1mm I think) This setup was slightly looser and had a bit more punch, but once I put a couple runs on it, it seemed a bit too loose for my liking.

I'm running it on an MP9 and was trying to replicate the feel of the Losi clutch. (Carbon/black; Aluminum/Green, heavy flywheel).

It's pretty close but not quite as nice. But much better than a 3 shoe.

I would not recommend running all aluminum shoes in a buggy with the Werks clutch. Truggy, ok, but not in buggy.

If you're preheating with a heat gun, ensure that the engine block has had time to saturate/get hot. I'm not saying this is the case for you, but I've seen guys that get the head "hot" and read a flash-temp but the block hasn't saturated, thus it isn't really preheated/hot enough to crank easily.

Arushmen: If you're actually breaking glowplugs, you have other issues.

It can be caused by any of the following:

(a) you're hydrolocking the engine during startup (too rich)

(b) leaving the glow ignitor on the plug for a long time without the engine running, thus weakening it/burning it up prematurely

(c) the engine isn't broken in and/or is improperly tuned and you're busting them at high RPM.

And to clarify the shimming figures I gave you, they're based on using a Nova C6TGC plug. This is based on being 1,000 feet or less above sea level. Higher elevations you'll have to adjust down accordingly.

All fuels are different too. Most modern race fuels are low oil content.

For 25/11 fuel (Byrons) run .70 shim

For 25/9 run .75

For 30/11 you can run .75 or .80

For 30/9 run .80