Hey guys thanks again for the info on the pipes.

I got to run the b5 in the buggy yesterday at a fairly new track around here (its a lots closer to me). Even with the 2057 w/o extender the b5 makes retarded bottom/mid for the buggy lol. It does in fact feel veeery smooth though with this pipe.

Luckily i matched it with a good clutch setting. I was able to drive it very similarly to a well setup electric r/c. AKA very little blipping needed. To me less blipping = better settled in corners, and overall more consistent laps.

Regarding sealing the engine. I sealed mine right after i was done with the first 8-10 tanks of the break-in to avoid all that hassle and chase lol.

i got 4 tanks done can i speed it up some more on the gas

Have you read my break in guide by chance? It's located in the first post on this thread.

Hey guys, got a question. I ran into an issue with my B5 yesterday at the races. First I wanna explain what happened at a previous race, because I wonder I this had something to do with it.

I was at a race, and I was fighting high temps after the heats all day, once I came in at 280, and during the main, I was experiencing really high idles, and temped the engine at 310 after the main. Never had any lean bog issues or anything, and actually won the race. I know that this is an unusually high operating temp, and hope I haven't hurt the engine.

Well, after that race I came home and immediately richened both high and low needles about 9 hours each. And when I showed up yesterday at the race and began tuning, the issue I was having was when I was slowly increasing my throttle while race tuning, the engine would have a slight stutter when the carb transitioned from the low speed needle to the high speed. Like it would for a split second, stutter right when it was transitioning. I seemed to have fixed it after a little more tuning, but have never encountered this and was just wondering the cause. Was it due to an overly rich bottom, or top? No ideas.

It could actualy be either one. The key to tuning really is setting your air gap (and then never touching it!) like I mention often. Once you have this set you have a point around which to tune. Then things become easy, have a high idle, your LS is too lean richen it up. Have no top end, your HS is too rich lean it out. It's the kiss method!

Awesome, thanks Ron. What is your idle gap .5 mm?

Chad

thanks on the 3 tank my plug back out some ran way cold

That I read in one of your earlier posts. So when that happens tighten your glow plug then continue with following the break in guide. You are making it too difficult lol. The guide lays out step by step exactly what you should do and answers just about all of the questions that you can have.

I read this and would like to give it a try. When measuring/setting the air gap, is it with the venturi on or off? BTW it always seems simple and easy to do when reading it at home. The reality is that I get to the track to fire it up and it all goes out the window. I'll keep trying until I get it I suppose.

What would cause a crank bearing to rust if your using a after run oil.

carb seal/gasket
 

Can someone please tell me where I can find a seal/gasket that goes between the carb and engine. Also the bolt... both pieces.

I've been trying to tune my motor and everytime I think I'm close it starts reving super high. Watched the throttle and saw it move the whole carb. With the bold tight I can still twist the carb. and it def. gets more air causing the high idle...

Thanks

Hi set the idle gap with the reducer out. I also get what you are saying about it seeming easy when reading it and everything goes out of the window when at the track but if you use the system things will start to click and you will start to see things happen and just know why! Trust me, don't give up on it:nod:

It could be caused by not using enough after run oil, not turning the engine over long enough on the bow to get it all throughout the engine (as in to coat the bearing), not completely running the engine out of fuel before adding after run oil can also cause it. Lastly of course waiting too long to add after run will do it to.

There is no seal/gasket that goes between the carb and engine. There is a small o-ring that fits around the base of the carb and another that sits inside of the case. If you are talking about this you can find those in our large o-ring kit. If you are talking about the heat insulation shield that is bonded to the carb neck, this is not replaceable and is permanently attached to the carb at the factory. The complete carb pinch bolt assembly that you were asking about is available from a-main also if needed.

Now in regards to your carb still being able to move even when tightened that really only happens if the pinch bolt has been overtightened which dents/deforms the heat shield. Once this happens it needs to be replaced. The only way that I can think of to try and fix this without replacing it would be to make it so that the pinch bolt tightens more. To do this I would try simply shaving about 1mm from the inner side of where the two pinch bolt sections fit together. Try doing this with a dremmel sanding drum. So basically look at how the two halfs fit together then take them apart and remove about 1/2mm from each half where they contact each other.

Yes its the insulation shield that is broken apart. I took the carb off when I got home and looked inside and there were pieces of plastic about the size of large sand pieces in the intake. I looked at the carb and the plastic is all disintegrating and is not attached to the carb anymore.

So I guess the next option is to order another carb???

Looks like I will have to tear down the engine to clean it all out. :cry: