Here's a short video on how to change engine bearings the easy way. I would use the oven instead of the hot plate though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhpwsjYoxM0

Nope, everything was zip tied tight. I can't explain why the air filter came off - the neck was attached to the carb, it was the actual filter head that came off the neck. I've since re-attached it, and glued it in place in combination with a zip tie. It ain't coming off anytime soon...

Please don't misinterpret what I'm saying - I'm not blaming the engine Ron. I'm just unhappy about my bad luck.

I don't have a huge amount of experience with nitro engines, so I couldn't tell if the P/S was really damaged or not - there was some scoring on the P/S, so I figured I may as well replace them.

Ok. I'll try and find some replacement bearings, but I have a feeling I'll have to order them.

(sigh) And so it goes.

Ron, is this the correct rear bearing?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ear-Bearing-B3

It's listed as being for the B3, but I assume it'll fit a B5?

Ah, you just got struck with one of those "sometimes xxit happens" type of things! Usually it's something weird and wacky that you would never imagine happening that completely ruins your day, like this! With the filter heads a tip is clean everything well with carb cleaner to remove any oil and then use a bead of shoe goo then zip tie it. You can peal off the shoe goo if you ever take it apart down the road unlike glue or CA.

No worries I understand. I was just pointing out that it was not really the motors fault because people read stuff like that on the internet and then jump to conclusions that we must be selling bad stuff or something. You know how stories change when passed from one mouth to another lol. First it starts off with my filter fell off and I needed to replace some stuff and then it turns into I read about a guy that had one of those engines and he had to change the piston and sleeve and all of the bearings just to make it run right lol!

If you see scoring on the p/s then that means that some pretty large pieces of dirt made it through the engine, so it was probably necessary to replace the stuff that you did!

Correct all of the bearings are interchangeable between all of our .21 engines! :nod:

Well, I'm in the middle of break-in on my second Werks engine. Followed Ron's method to a T on the first one (B6 in my buggy), and am doing the same for the B5 in my truggy. I'm at the point now where i'm ready to set the final idle gap and start tuning the HSN to 200 for 6-8 tanks, etc.

Am I supposed to let the engine cool completely in between tanks to get a little heat-cycling, or can I just keep re-filling and going? I let it cool completely every time on the B6 and also have on the B5 so far, but is that necessary?

BTW, i've got about 2-2.5 gallons on the B6 and it's really starting to rip now. Consistent temps and awesome pull throughout the entire powerband. For $200 bucks, my engine is keeping up with the big boys. Very happy with the mill's performance thus far. My driving on the other hand...

Great product and support. Keep up the good work, and I'll keep buying your engines!!!

I agree with you. For the price and performance you get with these engines there hard to beat

Personally I do not let the engine cool down between tanks, just run one after the other until you decide to take a break!

Thank you also for your comments on the B6! That engine will run with the best of them, we took 6th at the worlds with a stock one with a ceramic rear bearing in it so we've proven it!

I had a quick question involving pipes.

I am moving my b5 from my d8t, to a d8 that i just bought. I have been running the 2057 with the extender on the truggy, and was planning on running it without it on the buggy.

I have already seen that removing the extender smooths out the bottom end of the motor and stretches the top out some more.

I was curious how the 2058 pipe compares the the 2057 with and without the extension. Ive read that without the extender the 2057 increases the runtime by a good bit, but havent tested it out myself yet.

Seems like the 2058 is the pipe to have these days.

The 2058 pipe set is closer to the 2013 as far as performance is concerned. So more power across the board than the 2057. Fuel efficiency of the 2058 is really close to the 2057 but about 15 seconds less, so really not that much of a difference.

i broke in two B5 pros this week for our upcoming nationals..the one with a 2057 and the other with a 2058 and i have to admit the smooth power delivery of the 2057 was VERY impressive. Both were in mugen mbx6R buggies,25% nitro with p3 plugs. The one with the 2058 felt very aggresive. like stated above the runtime in effect was the same. on a side note though...I always silcon seal my engines. the b5 pro on the 2057 was sealed by the owner and the one of the 2058 not. breaking in was easy on the sealed one, like clockwork...the other one, well lets just say i was ready to throw it in the bin..but coulnt...because it wasnt mine:blush: after chasing a stable idle and whatever was causing this tuning issue, I decided to suck it up and seal his motor for him. Problem solved, so it had to be an air leak. if i ever needed proof that it is an absolutely necessary preparation then this was it. Two identical motors. Both of them are now running and tuning the same and could probably idle for days lol. Good engine.

PS, i use the break in/tuning method on the first page of this thread on all my motors, even my O.S's and it really made the wholebusiness make sense to me for the first time ever..foolproof, thanks again Ron

+1 for sealing an engine, +1000 for Ron's break in bible.

I've owned 4 B5's and never had an issue with air leaks concerning Ron's engines, but my Ninja B02 gave me a world of fits since the beginning. I just got done replacing bearings, piston and sleeve and I sealed EVERYTHING! I started her up and now it runs like a dream.

Got my motor used and its been moded with clockwerks parts and an O.S. carb. Just under 2 gallons run through. Just started really tuning it and it has some great speed through the power band.

What is a good operating temp. to be at, right now with my current tune I am just shy of 200, more like 195-198 after a couple of tanks run. Its very humid here in AZ right now and I can lean it out even more but I feel the speed is pretty good.

Thanks for the help.

Hey guys, got a question. I ran into an issue with my B5 yesterday at the races. First I wanna explain what happened at a previous race, because I wonder I this had something to do with it.

I was at a race, and I was fighting high temps after the heats all day, once I came in at 280, and during the main, I was experiencing really high idles, and temped the engine at 310 after the main. Never had any lean bog issues or anything, and actually won the race. I know that this is an unusually high operating temp, and hope I haven't hurt the engine.

Well, after that race I came home and immediately richened both high and low needles about 9 hours each. And when I showed up yesterday at the race and began tuning, the issue I was having was when I was slowly increasing my throttle while race tuning, the engine would have a slight stutter when the carb transitioned from the low speed needle to the high speed. Like it would for a split second, stutter right when it was transitioning. I seemed to have fixed it after a little more tuning, but have never encountered this and was just wondering the cause. Was it due to an overly rich bottom, or top? No ideas.

From my personal experience, o rings on the carb and pinch bolt are probably the culprit. Since these items are installed by the user, damage caused by improper install technique to the o ring is possible. Oil should be applied to both sides and a twist should be applied during install. If the o rings are installed correctly and are not damaged, no sealer should be needed.