Sounds like you really cranked down on the carb pinch bolt! That and you possibly have your end point adjustments set incorrectly where the servo is pushing on and pulling the entire carb.Those two things are the only way that you are going to damage the heat insulation shield.

I'm sort of at a loss...I get about 13-15 minutes into the main at our track and my b5 tends to flame out and won't refire. I've got no air leaks, and it's tuned right, temps are fine. I've looked for and eliminated the obvious causes, are there any "off the wall" ideas or things I should look for as to why it flames out and doesn't want to start???

It sucks to TQ in the 5 min. quals and know you won't make it past the 15 minute mark in the main...:(

Generally if an engine flames out and will not re-fire (or even sputter a little) then you need to look at spark or fuel. I'm assuming that the obvious "plug is burned out" thing is not the issue, correct? Are you seeing fuel move down the fuel line when the engine is being kicked over or are their air bubbles in the line? Also please give me some info on what temps you are running at, what pipe you are using and does this always happen at 13-15 minutes and if so when are you pitting and how far past your stop is this always occurring? Lastly what plugs are you running and what is the weather conditions like where you run when you were experiencing this? Let me know the above info and I'll do my best to try and help you figure out what is going on!

Not a plug issue, tried 2, both Werks #5's

VP 30% fuel, a second car runs fine using fuel from the same gallon so it's not the fuel.

Pipe, dynamite 053, wasn't my choice.

temps 200-215,

weather, 80-85 degs and high humidity don't know the exact %

we run 20 min mains, we all make 3 pit stops, it's club racing so no need to try and push run time and risk running out of fuel. I stop at about the 5-5:30 mark. It makes it about a minute past the second fuel stop. So I wouldn't think it's an issue with fueling. So more like in the 11-12 minute range.

Yes I did see a couple small air bubbles in the line, which says air leak. BUT I can't find any leaks in the tank, lines, motor, or even the pipe. On the box these couple air bubbles didn't want to move through the fuel line either, which would tell me I have a pressure issue. I let the car sit for about 3 minutes and it fired again.:weird: (not a heat issue temp was 190 +/- after sitting.

I found my exhaust gaskets are fair, some spits in them, still seem to seal fine but could that be an issue? A couple seasoned nitro guys who I trust told me that wouldn't be my issue.

Pinch feels good and I would think if that was an issue it would happen sooner as the motor gets up to full temp and not later in the run.

Front bearing is new as well, put 5 tanks on it before the main without issue.

I will say that I'm the only guy running a Werks at my track and everyone is impressed, when it runs:lol:

not that it matters but it's not the pro version, just the base motor with the silver case.

It could be a pressure issue as you mentioned. If you would please try a quick swap to another pipe and see if that fixes things. The temps that you are running are fine, the plug choice is correct, the fact that the engine runs perfectly fine for 2 tanks and then does this on the third is strange so try the pipe which (if nothing changes) will resolve any concerns about the pressurization of the tank being the cause of the issue.

We race every other week so it will be awhile until I run it again but I'll try a different pipe. Along with new lines (again) and new gaskets.

I'm not a total nitro newbie but it's been 3-4 years and then it was rtr motors, and only oval stuff.

I got the motor used. Number one rule is to never buy a used motor I know but it was a package deal and the price was right. Claimed to have a gallon on it, and by the condition of the car that's about right. First gallon is the most important I know but I've had it down to the bare block to change the front bearing, which was leaking, and everything looked good. Total run time would be just under 2 gallons a this point.

I'm not ready to give up on the ol' girl just yet, she sounds mean and makes to much power....for about 11 minutes anyway..:lol:

Thanks for the help, that's nice to see and goes along way.;)

Hope I can get this motor running right for the rest of the summer, I'll have a fresh Werks ready for next year for sure.

I got some Werks #4 and #5 plugs from amain. The #4's seem to be re-labeled with a sticker, but anyhow, I see no markings physically on the plugs to distinguish them from eachother once out of the packages, am I missing something?

the coil is diff. on the #4.....

Thanks, I'll inspect some new ones out of the package. A stamped number on the side would be nice, though.

yes I agree

You just got some from our first production run which is why the new blister pack cards were not printed yet. As far as marking to distinguish plug type once out of the package it's pretty simple, if it has a #5 or #6 stamped on the body it's a #5 or a #6, if it has nothing stamped on the side it's a #4.

Racer I was just thinking about this after answering one of the post below but you might also want to try a hotter plug if you are running in high humidity conditions. That could also possibly solve the random flame out issue.

good to know thanks Ron! I have some of the early #4's which have a #5 stamped on it :)

Thanks Ron, I'll try that too. I just happen to have a Werks #6 in my box;)

a werks #6 is colder...you would need a werks #4 or even a .s p3 has worked is the high humidity