The B5 Pro is a BAAAADDDDD engine. I have had to limit my 10 year old to 50% throttle servo travel, and it still seems to keep up with other buggies down the straight, and clears huge table tops and triples with ease. I'm new at this, so I didn't realize how big a deal this was until other racers started talking to me about it and didn't believe me until I showed them the settings on his controller. Not to mention that we have had zero flames outs in 7 qualifiers and 2 mains. The engine always fires quickly and holds a tune. We're 3 gallons into this engine, and I love it. I have 3 other buggies with a different manufacturers engine, that although they do a good job, I'm going to sell them and buy 3 more Werks. I think I have converted a few experienced racers from other brands as well.

And to add to this, customer service is awesome. When I purchased this engine, it had a split o-ring on the carb pinch bolt, (new in the package). Ron saw my post on here, and a couple of days later, I had an envelope full of o-rings, lol. That kind of service means a lot.

Looking to get a new engine for 8T 2.0. Can I just swap the stock Losi clutch/flywheel/collet off my 454 and put it on the Werks???

Sure can. You will have a slight issue with your carburator fittin due to the center diff mount being in the way. Let me know if you need me to explain how to rig it up properly.

Chad

Thanks. Is it as simple as turning the carb slightly or just grinding off a little bit of the plastic on the center diff mount?

Yep, I actually did a combination of both, because I didn't want that rubber boot getting torn open on the carb slide, because that would cause all sort of madness.

Chad

It was just me not seating the engine right. Now im having an issue getting the front screws in. I cant get them past the engines logo puffing out the side. Almost like I need shorter screws. Its the last thing I need to get the thing in order for break in.

Im also hoping ive built it correctly. When I was talking about getting the throttle setup installed I meant getting it seated in the engine and then screwing the little "seal tube" together in the back of it. I figured it all out from just sitting and looking at it and other engines online. But im still a little worried.

I had the same issue with my B5 and the engine screws. All I did was dremmel down one side of each screw, being careful not to dremmel into the hex hole on the top of the screw. It worked great.

Chad

I was thinking about cutting the screw down a little. Like almost in half, I wasnt sure if there would be enough thread to keep in in place that way though?

I wouldn't cut the screw down at all, because only the bitten 1/3 of the screw makes contact with thread in the engine mount. If you see where the screws go through in the base of the engine itself, there is no thread, just smooth. What I meant that I did, was the thick part of the engine screw, at the top, I dremmeled one the sides of each screw down flat, until I got close to the hex cutout in the top of the screw.

Chad

ok I will try that out. I dont have a dremmel... I guess its time to buy one. All my hobbies and tools that is the one thing I dont have.

Thanks for the info, Im hoping to have the car up and ready for break in process to begin this week.

No worries man. I went through all this stuff too. Lol. If you don't want to get a dremmel, you can prolly do the same thing with a file. Will take a little longer, but will save you $50. Lol

Chad

anyone know the b5 needle settings in their race tune not the flush (i would like to know for reference)... i dont seem to be getting the tune and engine shuts off sometimes .. temped it to see but it was 210f.. while running there is plenty of smoke ... it idles well and low and after sometime the idle shoots up like anything .. also it stutters sometimes after leaving throttle .. people said its too lean on bottom but my idle gap is about .60 mm ... im using a throttle return spring.. after doing the pinch test it took about 8 seconds for the engine to stop .. i have sealed everything and fuel tank and lines checked too ... running 20% . i dont know wat do to pinch test saying rich LSN and running behaviour is like lean LSN .. please help me out ? can it be the front bearing ? just installed a new rear bearing 4 days back .. and its been happening for th elast 4 days .. new carb orings too .. please anyone know how to solve this ..

It's a tight fit. If you thread the screw through the tabs first, and then screw them into the engine mount blocks, it will be pretty easy. No modifications necessary.

Agreed :D That is the way to do it! Just thread the front screws into the engine mount tabs first, then install the engine. No need to grind down screws etc.:nod: