Then you are like me, I don't really care if it's not affecting my driving but I wan't to learn. The other day I had problems with my carb that all of a sudden would not return to idle and I wanted to know why and how to correct it and Ron helped out even again. I haven't had time to fix the carb yet but I know how to do it.

I get what you guys are saying. It seems to me that it usually has to do with relationship of the LS needle setting to the air gap if that makes sens. It's a fine tune type of thing so it's something that you are going to have to play around with by making slight adjustments to the air gap and then the LS, checking for an improvement, make another slight change, test again etc. So just play around with it during a practice day.

I'm sorry Ron, when I re-read my message above I see how I could come across as ignorant but I didn't mean that. I just meant that I don't care so much about stuff if they don't affect my driving. Not that I don't care about what you are saying.

No worries, I understood what you were trying to say in your original posts. What I was simply trying to do was get you guys to play around with the tune a little in a simply easy manner. Really it's a way to expand your knowledge base a little. People in general seem to be afraid to mess around with their tune when their engine seems to be running right. IMHO that is exactly the time that you do want to play around with things. When your engine seems to be running perfectly try leaning the LS 1-2 hours and see what happens. Then put the LS back and lean the HS 1-2 hours and see what happens. Then put is back and try reducing the idle gap a few hours with the idle screw, see how it affects your idle, then try compensating for it with your LS and see how you like that etc. etc. Doing that you will learn a lot about your engine and you will learn how to recognize exactly what is going on with your engine when you are driving so that you can make clear and precise recommendations to your pit guy on what needs to be changed during races etc. It's no different that seeing if a different line through a corner will work better for you. You never know until you try and if you do not try you will never know lol. The same with tune, so do not be afraid to try something different just remember what you did and make small 1-2 hour changes at a time so that it is safe! :nod:

I had an ut-oh and accidentally broke off the nipple on my 2013 exhaust pipe. as a quick fix I dremmeled the rest off and remmed out the hole to just bigger than the pressure tube. My question is, is this good enough? or did ruin the pipe?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...s-2013-mod.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...2013-ut-oh.jpg

I've also had a nipple broken of on one of my exhaust pipes. I tapped thread in the hole where the nipple sat and bought threaded nipples.
I some sort of 2 component glue (not normal epoxy) that can glue metal together. I apply a little on the threads of the nipple and then screw it in to have a better seal. Then, when the nipple is tightenend, I add some extra glue around the edge to seal it up. I've been running that pipe for a weeks on my spared engine for clubracing and it hold up fine :-)

Cool thanks for the tip, where did you pick up the nipple? Home depot?

Is the way i did it going to leak too much? I remember gas truck the back pressure tube was ran this way.

You can pick up nipples at your local hobby shop. They are commonly found in the airplane section look around the fuel tanks. Most airplane tanks need to be assembled (like car kits used to be like) so they sell replacements. Then put a dab of JB Weld on the nipple and screw it in the hole. Back in the days pipes also used to come without nipples installed lol (see how good you guys got it nowadays) and that was how we installed them.

I found them at my local airplane hobbyshop. They were 2 or 3 bucks for 2 nipples.

I'd say run it and check if the tube stay in and that there's no smoke comming out. Maybe you should seal it up? 1 airleak and the tune is off :-(

Noob help!
 

Been racing nitro's for two seasons now and this is my first experience with a werks engine after exclusively running a Nova P5 for one season in Truggy. I have been having the hardest time learning on this engine. I sent if off to Lance @ RCnew for the break-in.

Got the engine back, took it to the track to get the cobwebs out, ran about six laps, everything was good, temps about 195 degrees and went home.

Went back last night, ran about the same amount of laps and decided she was running good, but the top speed could be better and thought it might have bogged a little at full throttle so I went 1/8 rich on the LS and two 1/8 turns lean on the HS. ALSO... whoops... Also changed the plug from a #6 to a #5. I think that was a mistake. Lance used a #6 from break-in and he is in North Carolina. I am in Wyoming and was trying to fine tune for altitude, plus it was about time to change the plug (I read that if the plug was used for break-in, run it for about four tanks after and it's pretty much done).

The result..

My engine ran like a bat out of hell for about 3-4 laps, brought it in to the pit and it was hot... like 265 - 285. The engine would not calm down, it was idling very high so much as to where it would creep away from me if I didn't hold the break. I was making little throttle blips to try to tame it and get it to calm down. I killed the engine, let it cool to 200 degrees and tried again. Fire up great, ran like a bat outta hell for 2 laps and same result.

Would changing plugs have that dramatic an effect on the idle? Remember I was trying to richen the LS. Should I have been richening the HS needle instead? Would the plug change have made the HS way lean?

Never had these issues on the P5XLT. Seems like the B5 is very touchy and likes very very small adjustments?

Ran out of daylight. I will trying again tonight, try to get it tamed from overheating and idling so high.

A lot of these engines are super sensitive to adjustments on the LSN. Richen it back up would be my advice.. (Though diagnosing anything on nitros online is notoriously difficult..) In general, try to avoid that kind of adjustment - where you change three things at once.. It sounds like you were about right on the LSN, and just needed to lean the HSN a tad. Don't obsess about temps too much either - performance, sound, and smoke.. If those three things are right, you're set. (And can forget about temps for the most part..)

So what would be affected the most when you drop from a Werks #6 to a Werks #5. How will performance change when plugs change.

Others will chime in, probably with more specific info.. But basically with a hotter plug you tend to get a more stable idle and easier tuning, and a bit snappier response down low. Cooler plugs have a somewhat better top end. This is much moreso the case in my experience with my basher MT engines.. With turbo .21 buggy engines I think this is all a bit less pronounced. Of course the main thing is to use cooler plugs for hot outdoor temps, and vice versa..

The OS P3 plug is very popular in all kinds of engines because it's a really hot plug - which makes tuning (i.e. a nice stable idle..) easy...

I wouldn't expect that big a change - i.e. a change requiring a change of tune - by going from a 6 to a 5. I think what threw your tune off was messing with the LSN.. I would just richen it back up a tad. With the LSN you have to be very, very careful.. Tiny adjustments only..

It was idling erratic because it was hot. You needed to richen the top just a bit.

Going to a hotter plug does tend to lean it. Colder plug will act richer.

Also sounds like your bottom end is off. You probably need to lean it out a bit, then back off the idle gap to bring the idle speed down.

Thanks for your tips guys, got her under control last night. No more overheating. Still lots of power, very snappy, good smoke and no bogging. Temps running about 215-230 degrees with 80 temps outside. But... my fuel consumption is horrible. I am lucky to get 4 laps on a tank right now. How can I improve the fuel economy? I hear most running the B5 get amazing run times.