ok thanks!

Ill put it back together and fire it up! Was having erratic idle after the engine warmed up and was wondering if that was a spot sucking in air. Also noticed the pinch bolt was loose. So I am thinking maybe that was where my issue was.

Do yourself a favor and put a layer of Lucky 7 sealant around the backplate, carb, pinch bolt ends and fuel inlet and you won't have to worry about air leaks. I do it on all my new engines just as a preventative measure. The stuff goes on easy with the engine fully assembled, and is easily removed if you take the engine apart. It's not at all like using RTV. Just my $.02.

I actually have two bottles of the old school air seal left so I went ahead and sealed her up already hahaha.

I would throw a new glow plug in it. If all your orings are in good shape, sealant is not needed. That's the orings job. If there is a leak, that means there is a bad oring.

Plug did the trick! Man is this motor ballistic! What kind of run times are people getting with the b5 pro? I was getting around 7 1/2 minutes

Lots of variable's in the runtime dept. How much fuel has been through it?
They are a great engine! Just run a 1/3 of a gallon through mine. Never touched a needle, zero flame outs. Reliable as the day is long.:nod:

Ok guys so I have some questions. I have 2 werks b5 engines they are both diff. The first engine has a cast type back plate and an older style head that's flat but with out the lip around the top. The second one has a nice machined backplate and the the flat head but it has a lip around the top. I'm going to rebuild both engines and I am just looking to see if the internals are the same or will work with the new b5. Engines. Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks, Dakota Burnette

You have one of the early model engine and a later model one (the one with the lip on the head). As far as the internals i.e. P/S, crank, rod etc. they are all interchangeable. Hope this helps!

Hey guys just a quick question. I have been working with a fella that has a couple werks engines. He asked if I would break in his new B5 and I am working on it at least until today. I idled 1 tank on the box but right at the end it went nut and I could not get it to idle, I would either be to rich or lean. Upon shutting it down and inspecting it I removed the fly wheel and the rubber seal on the front bearing fell out as well. Has anyone else ever had this happen? I told him that he will need to replace it and he said that he intended on replacing both with ceramics. But as I said earlier has anyone ever had the rub her seal to fall out like that or did I do something wrong when I was mounting it in my back up truggy for break in.

Probably just a "bad from the factory" bearing. I have had it happen with a brand new replacement bearing. It was one of the top major brands.

I understand that. I have heard that Werks are very good quality motors. And after tearing this motor down and inspecting it for fear of something being sucked in during the idle process I could see the finish work is top notch. I am excited to get the bearings changed out and to see what this puppy can do. ALTHOUGH I am not sure if he will like how I tune it out for him.:sneaky:

Werks is great quality and has great customer service. Engine bearings are always need inspection on a regular basis not matter the engine manufacturer. Allot of people over look it but it does not take just a few minutes to pull the fly wheel off and inspect your front bearing for leakage or damage.

I have had some bud luck. Hear me out on this one.
The front bearing on the center diff broke down bad and before I noticed the center diff got chewed up along with the clutch bell. The bearing seized up inside the clutch and started to rotate on the crank shaft.
The crank is now toast because when I put new bearings in a new clutch bell it was a bad bad amount of play and later I measured the crank to 4.94 mm instead of 5.00 mm

Is there a fix for this? Can I get a used crank shaft from some place? The engine is in good shape so I don't want to give up on it.

If you would like to pay the shipping plus 20 bucks I have a crank that's just collecting dust.

Of course I will do that. Don't get upset now that I tell you I live in Sweden (Europe). The shipping to me is done by the USPS. So if you please could just check the shipping cost I will gladly pay you for shipping + $20.
Get the absolute cheapest shipping possible, I don't care for tracking or insurance and I'm not really in a hurry so if it takes 3 weeks I don't care :)

I can pay you an any way you want!