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-   -   The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/319017-new-werks-b5-21-racing-engine.html)

sschultz 08-20-2013 08:43 AM


Originally Posted by JourneyMan (Post 12465963)
Thanks for your tips guys, got her under control last night. No more overheating. Still lots of power, very snappy, good smoke and no bogging. Temps running about 215-230 degrees with 80 temps outside. But... my fuel consumption is horrible. I am lucky to get 4 laps on a tank right now. How can I improve the fuel economy? I hear most running the B5 get amazing run times.

Might not be fully broke in yet. I found that gearing up the b5 a bit won't hurt either. The engine has crazy power on the bottom and mid with the 2013 pipe.

JourneyMan 08-20-2013 08:53 AM


Originally Posted by sschultz (Post 12466219)
Might not be fully broke in yet. I found that gearing up the b5 a bit won't hurt either. The engine has crazy power on the bottom and mid with the 2013 pipe.

I am running the 2058 pipe, with the supplied header. The red venturi that came with the B5. Gearing may be something I can look into. Probably richen the top one 1/8 inch turn, maybe two with those temps. I don't want to adjust the top too much if it may still be breaking-in. We are averaging 91 degrees and DRY during the day.

FYI, someone mentioned in an earlier post that their idle was going up and down up and down, but had good performance. My engine does the same. When the engine starts it idles perfect. After a few laps, it fluctuates like this, but stays running on the bench and seems to be performing fine.

sschultz 08-20-2013 12:03 PM


Originally Posted by JourneyMan (Post 12466252)
I am running the 2058 pipe, with the supplied header. The red venturi that came with the B5. Gearing may be something I can look into. Probably richen the top one 1/8 inch turn, maybe two with those temps. I don't want to adjust the top too much if it may still be breaking-in. We are averaging 91 degrees and DRY during the day.

FYI, someone mentioned in an earlier post that their idle was going up and down up and down, but had good performance. My engine does the same. When the engine starts it idles perfect. After a few laps, it fluctuates like this, but stays running on the bench and seems to be performing fine.

I would not richen the top anymore. If it was mine, I would lean the top a bit. Mine runs best at 240-250. My track is pretty fast, long straights, and I get 9+ minutes no problem with buggy. The 2058 works good to, I get similar run times with it, just not quite as strong on the bottom. The 2 stage idle is kinda tricky to eliminate. If I remember rite, I leaned the lsn a bit and adjusted idle screw accordingly.

JourneyMan 08-20-2013 02:10 PM


Originally Posted by sschultz (Post 12466863)
I would not richen the top anymore. If it was mine, I would lean the top a bit. Mine runs best at 240-250. My track is pretty fast, long straights, and I get 9+ minutes no problem with buggy. The 2058 works good to, I get similar run times with it, just not quite as strong on the bottom. The 2 stage idle is kinda tricky to eliminate. If I remember rite, I leaned the lsn a bit and adjusted idle screw accordingly.

Well problem is I am not getting 9+ minute run times, maybe half that if I am lucky. Definately get that on my truggy (P5XLT), which is a larger tank. The fast guys run between 35-39 secs per lap and it is a decent size 1/8 scale track. I am lucky to get 4-5 laps on a tank. It is guzzling! I may just need to be patient if it in fact is still breaking-in. I think you are correct the this motor has a sweet spot in the 240-250 range. I will have to pull out the old stop watch tonight as we have a race on Friday.

Werks 08-20-2013 09:00 PM

If you are only getting 4-5x 39-40 second laps on an entire tank of fuel then you are running your engine really rich on one of the needles. If your engine is broke in you should probably be somewhere around 1/2 turn in from flush on both the HS and LS needle. Please let me know where your settings are at currently?

JourneyMan 08-22-2013 08:01 AM

Ron,

I hit the track last night, did not change any settings, just replaced my outer filter. Filled the tank and pulled out the stopwatch. After many hard laps, engine still running very strong at temp'd 205 degrees. A couple laps in the engine started sounding like a wookie and I got a 9mins out of the tank! I have about 8-9 tanks through this engine now, it must have still been breaking-in. I am starting to get a handle on tuning and maintenance, biggest lesson learned- patience! Noob luck!

Thanks Everyone!

Werks 08-22-2013 03:18 PM


Originally Posted by JourneyMan (Post 12472880)
Ron,

I hit the track last night, did not change any settings, just replaced my outer filter. Filled the tank and pulled out the stopwatch. After many hard laps, engine still running very strong at temp'd 205 degrees. A couple laps in the engine started sounding like a wookie and I got a 9mins out of the tank! I have about 8-9 tanks through this engine now, it must have still been breaking-in. I am starting to get a handle on tuning and maintenance, biggest lesson learned- patience! Noob luck!

Thanks Everyone!

Did I read that right, you only have 8-9 tanks of fuel through the engine now? If so you should not be concerned about run time, you should still be in the process of breaking in the engine. If that is the case, richen the motor up, run it around easy for another 7-8 tanks and then start leaning it down to race tune. Don't rush break in on engines, the time you take now doing it gently and taking your time, will be paid back in the long run by increased life of your engine.

JourneyMan 08-22-2013 03:59 PM


Originally Posted by Werks (Post 12474161)
Did I read that right, you only have 8-9 tanks of fuel through the engine now? If so you should not be concerned about run time, you should still be in the process of breaking in the engine. If that is the case, richen the motor up, run it around easy for another 7-8 tanks and then start leaning it down to race tune. Don't rush break in on engines, the time you take now doing it gently and taking your time, will be paid back in the long run by increased life of your engine.

Eight or nine tanks since break-in (see my previous post on page #588). I sent this motor to Lance @ Rcnew for the break-in. I sent it to him per your recommendation to have it inspected. I was the guy talking on here, who had the B5 that was starting backwards. All is well now, I am happy. I definitely recommend Lance's services to anyone having trouble. The day the motor arrived in NC, he had it disassembled, inspected and emailed with his findings and whether to proceed with break-in. He completed the break-in process the same day. What a guy! :nod:

Werks 08-22-2013 10:06 PM


Originally Posted by JourneyMan (Post 12474279)
Eight or nine tanks since break-in (see my previous post on page #588). I sent this motor to Lance @ Rcnew for the break-in. I sent it to him per your recommendation to have it inspected. I was the guy talking on here, who had the B5 that was starting backwards. All is well now, I am happy. I definitely recommend Lance's services to anyone having trouble. The day the motor arrived in NC, he had it disassembled, inspected and emailed with his findings and whether to proceed with break-in. He completed the break-in process the same day. What a guy! :nod:

Sorry about that, I talk to so many people about stuff every day that I get some things mixed up! In regards to Lance, agreed he's great to work with and on top of his game!

Duke Silver 08-26-2013 09:18 PM

I have about 2.5 gallons through my B5 pro, and it has almost no pinch. I always run a new air filter, I replaced the bearings at 2 gallons and have been using a Buku crankcase cap with the new bearings, I always pre heat my engine before firing it and I never let the engine cool at anything other than BDC. First 2 gallons were Byron's GenII, then I switched to VP as that is the brand of fuel I can get most easily. I get about 11:20 to a tank in a DNX408 on a track with 35 second laps (on the VP Fuel). The engine makes great power and has compression, but should I be concerned with the lack of pinch? Is this normal for a B5?

Werks 08-26-2013 10:28 PM


Originally Posted by Duke Silver (Post 12487345)
I have about 2.5 gallons through my B5 pro, and it has almost no pinch. I always run a new air filter, I replaced the bearings at 2 gallons and have been using a Buku crankcase cap with the new bearings, I always pre heat my engine before firing it and I never let the engine cool at anything other than BDC. First 2 gallons were Byron's GenII, then I switched to VP as that is the brand of fuel I can get most easily. I get about 11:20 to a tank in a DNX408 on a track with 35 second laps (on the VP Fuel). The engine makes great power and has compression, but should I be concerned with the lack of pinch? Is this normal for a B5?

After 2 1/2gallons any engine should be fully broken in (as in this case) and when it is you should feel little if any mechanical pinch. That is a good thing, that means that your engine is now operating at it's prime with the piston and sleeve having and ideal fit and as such is not loosing a bunch of power overcoming all of the friction of the parts not fitting properly and wanting to get stuck at TDC. :nod:

1966ss 08-27-2013 06:36 PM

What werks engine would be the best fit for the serpent cobra on road gt car? I'm leaning towards the b5. I hear great things

Werks 08-27-2013 11:23 PM


Originally Posted by 1966ss (Post 12490596)
What werks engine would be the best fit for the serpent cobra on road gt car? I'm leaning towards the b5. I hear great things

A lot5 of people running GT cars run the B5 or if budget allows B5-Pro. Either of those combined with the 2058 pipe set and you should be dialed :nod:

sand geek 08-30-2013 09:17 PM

werks pro b5
 
1 Attachment(s)
I have a werks pro b5 engine that i just purchased. When looking at the carb i noticed a gap in the flat gasket or spacer between the carb and the case. Is this normal?

grizz1 08-30-2013 11:43 PM


Originally Posted by sand geek (Post 12501237)
I have a werks pro b5 engine that i just purchased. When looking at the carb i noticed a gap in the flat gasket or spacer between the carb and the case. Is this normal?

Yep. Thats what they normally look like.


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