Makes sense, the 2013 does have a really aggressive bottom but interestingly enough it does not seem to loose any top on our engine either lol! Let me know what you guys come up with after the next race and as mentioned I'll let you know what Kortz thinks after he gets done with his testing.

Check the stuff that Johnathon Bell mentioned. Then if this does not resolve the issues that you have then you know it is tuning related. Check the temp that you are seeing on the track after running for around 4-5 minutes (so that you have time to heat saturate the chassis and block). If it is still in a reasonable range (200-240F) then try richening the low speed needle 1-2 hours and leaning the HS an equal amount. Toss the car on the track and the run for a couple of minutes and re-check. If it is better then you can continue doing this slowly (1-2 hours at a time until you have it where you like). If the issue is worse, then you know that you went the wrong way and have to do the reverse lol!

Bottom line is even if you think that your engine is running perfectly, if you are seeing normal temps do not be afraid to play with your tune a little bit. If you play with it a bit you might find that you might like a slightly richer bottom and leaner top on a blown out track (as it will soften your bottom without really loosing out on any mid to top) or you might want a slightly leaner bottom than normal but with a slightly rich top (to offset it) because you are running on a blue grooved, short track and never really pulling WOT on the straights. Bottom line, there is no ideal tune, only the ideal tune for your driving style and the track that you are on at that time.

Try the stuff above and let me know if you still have an issue.

Regards,

Ron

Garret, when you are breaking it in using the system that I mentioned keep it as simple as possible. Pop the air filter off, and pull the trigger on the radio, adjust the travel until the carb is completely open. Then pull the trigger slowly until you see the low speed needle come out of the spray bar and simply use this as a mental reference. While you are still running at throttel settings where you know the low speed needle is in the spray bar you make adjustments to the LS. When you are running at throttle positions above where you know the low speed needle is out of the spray bar, you make adjustments to the high speed needle.

Normally you would progress through the drive slightly faster, next tank lean the low speed needle an hour or two (which will increase the idle speed) so you back the idle screw out to reduce the idle speed process as you are breaking the engine in naturally. I say this as again using this system you go a little bit faster, a little bit leaner each tank so naturally you will get to the point where you are pulling enough throttle (going fast enough) that you are going to be on the high speed needle (remember the point at which the slide is open far enough that the low speed needle is no longer embedded in the spray bar). You stopped this from happening naturally by restricting how far the slide can open up lol!

So...... I'm going to assume that you have now put a few tanks through the engine. If so with the HS set flush with the end of the housing simply set the slide so that the air gap is approximately 1mm (using the idle screw), then put the air filter back on and fire up the engine. See how it idles, if the idle is low lean the LS if the idle is high richen the LS until you get a smooth, steady idle. Warm up the vehicle by putting around for a couple of minutes and come back in and check the temp and the idle. If the idle is elevated adjust it down again using the LS needle. Then do a few laps at close to race pace (rolling off the throttle mid way down the straight) then check the temp. Set the HS so that you see around 200 degree's and then just run another 8 or so tanks through it rolling off on the straight. After this you should be able to go to race tune and start pushing the motor. Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing

I would think the GO Femca 0801 pipe would work good on this engine, I don't own the B5, but by reading through the thread it seems to be similar powerwise to the GO 5 Port. The Go 0801 pipe has awesome bottom end and screaming top end, run times are excellent as well, just a thought, maybe someone has one laying around and could try it!

I might buy one of these B5's next month, we'll see :D

pm
 

Ron (werks) PM Thanks

Aren't go engines part shooters? :lol:

Are you trying to start something? :confused: because I'm not, I'm just giving an opinion about a PIPE not an ENGINE.

Honestly I have no idea, I've never ran 20% in a .21 engine and I'm not really sure why anyone would want to do so either. 25% can be ran without adjusting deck height as the variation of only 5% nitro is not going to make that much of a difference. To find the "ideal setting" as you mentioned you are going to have to experiment. Frankly what is ideal for me using our fuel and the plug and pipe that we use plus out altitude, elevation and humidity might result in detonation and engine destruction for you. Based on the fact that you measured the shim stack in the first place I'm going to assume that you are some what knowledgeable about setting deck height so you should probably know this already. Not sure what you were eeking about in regards to the shim stack being 1mm overall. The amount of shims purely has to do with how far the combustion chamber extends into the sleeve.

On this engine we use a slightly dished squish band combined with a flat topped piston design. As delivered there is room to drop the deck height BUT if you do so please make sure that you understand how to test this. Saying "use 2x .X mm shims and 1x .Z mm shims" is the lazy internet way of doing things just like the "set your needles to this and that and your engine will be tuned perfectly!" thing. It's simply the wrong way to do things and can easily destroy an engine. You need to factor in any rod stretch or play in bushings in addition to the anti-knock characteristics of your specific fuel when you are trying to optimize your engine through dropping the deck height as low as possible. There are good gains to be had by doing this but as I mentioned it is going to involve you testing to find what works best for your specific set up which is why I do not want to quote any numbers.

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing

zJatoRad I was just joking. Will amain have the separate parts? What plugs have you guys been running in the B5? I bought a few OD97T's.

zJatoRad, just noticed your post and I do not think anyone is trying to start anything with you. Thank you for the suggestion on the GO pipe, if I run across one I'll give it a shot. As far as Go (engines) are concerned I compliment them on making a low cost engine however I have very serious personal issues with the way that they did that by blatantly, 100% copying engines designs made by Novarossi to the extent that parts are even interchangeable. As an individual and as a manufacturer in this industry I find this completely and totally unethical. Now again I'm not trying to start anything with you I'm just giving you my view point on what I think of them as a company. Even though people say business is war their still needs to be a certain level of honor and integrity maintained.

This is also why I would ask that people refrain from comparing our engines to theirs (especially on this thread). From a quality of manufacturing and materials stand point they are not even in the same league with us or with the Novarossi designs that their engines are copies of. And.... on that note, no more Go talk from me and again this is not personally directed to you, this is just my personal feelings about the company.

Regards,

Ron

Yes they will have the parts. As far as plugs we have been using our #5 Buggy Turbo Plug, the OS P3 and the OD97T with good luck.

I understand Ron.

Just to clarify, I was strictly talking about the Go 0801 Pipe! :nod:

Ron, I have a bunch of 77T glow plugs, if I ever try this engine, would this be an okay gp?

Werks has plugs?

No worries, i got the fact that you were talking about the pipes and we're all good. I probably should not have ranted on like I did but I'm bog on morals and that hole scenario was not good in my book lol!

Moving on the 77T plugs I have not ran, I would think that they might be a bit on the hot side but at the least they will probably be really good for break in!

Regards,

Ron

Well, Ron, i had my first outing with my B5 yesterday at SRS in scottsdale, az. I am SUPER impressed. I've got a little more than a quart through the engine and it's great. it never even thought about flaming out on the track. i followed break in instructions as per this thread and used an o'donnel 97t with torco 30%. it first fired up immediately on the box and the carb was really easy to tune. by the time the racing started, i had a good baseline, and by the b- main (yeah, i'm rarely in the a-main) it had almost as much poop going down the straight as anybody else, including the nova +4's and the electric guys.... ok, the flashlights were the fastest, but let's get back to the b5.

even in the 103+ degree mid day heat while breaking in it never even got above 200. by the time i did my last run it came off at 205, rock solid.:nod::nod: i'm using an AXE rossi 2050 pipe, and i'll be going to the 2013 as soon as i freeze it and pull the dents out.

now about the low end...

Lots of low end, even at idle. I had punch all over the place, and this was a small track. more than my old b3 had, and we're not even broken in yet. lots of torque even at idle! for those of you who stop the flywheel with a finger or something to shut off your engine, you'll want to use something else and NOT your finger!!!!!! i got a flywheel burn on one thumb, one finger, and on the opposite first finger, it almost ripped my fingernail off! no shit! i found that for this method, gloves, a rag, or even a stray piece of fuel line that was lying on the table would get the job done.

not even broke in yet!!!!! i can't wait to get a gallon and a half through this thing. should be just in time for state champs and the nitro pit winter series:sneaky: