Originally Posted by 1fastguy1 (Post 6320300)

what kind of runtime did you get with the 2013?? I just got one to try and plan to try it this weekend

Originally Posted by smb17 (Post 6323417)

Welcome back ron! Let me know what kortz thinks! Did he run the bigboy pipe yet? I'm not convinced that the engine liked the pipe. but it did have some nice run times.

Originally Posted by sstoffer (Post 6325424)

I thought going back to the 2013 was just overall more power. Biggest difference was on the bottom. I had clutched the car for the 2056 so it was a bit too much with the 2013 especially with the good night air we had last weekend. I will be at the RAC and I think Mo will also so it will be interesting to compare his setup to what I’m running.

Originally Posted by Werks (Post 6197538)

2) ...

Now with the radio gear on, engine off and the slide closed look down the throat of the carb and slowly start to pull the trigger. Take note of the how much throttle you are giving at the point that the low speed needle (which is connected to the slide) comes out of the spray bar (the hollow tube) on the opposite side of the carb. We will use this as a referance for tuning later on but basically what is happening is that during the range of throttle movement that the low speed needle is embedded in the spray bar, the low speed needle will affect fuel delivery (for the purist we both know that this is a simplified explanation as the fuel first travels through the HS needle circuit before going to the LS but since we already set the HS to a rich setting and will not be touching this for a while it's pretty much a mute point). At the point that it is out of the spray bar the fuel delivery (or tune) is affected solely by the high speed needle.

Then I re-install the air filter, fire up the engine and toss it on the ground. Start slowly doing figure eights at say 3 to 4 mph until you run through the tank. Then for the next tank i fire the engine up again and back the idle screw out a couple of hours. You will immediately hear the idle speed start to reduce, to compensate for this I then lean the low speed needle a couple of hours until I again hear a smooth steady idle. Once I have this I then start doing figure eights again but now a little bit fasted until the tank is empty. Next tank fire up the engine, back idle screw out a couple of hours, lean LS needle a couple of hours, do figure eights a couple of mph faster.

Basically what I'm doing with this system is slowly reducing the amount of lubricant being pumped through the engine while at the same time slowly increasing the amount of load that is being put on the engine. This I keep on repeating until I get to approximately the point that I'm pulling the trigger far enough that I know the low speed needle is being pulled out of the spray bar (remember we checked this initially while we had the air filter off) at which point your air gap (the amount the slide is help open by the idle stop screw) will have been reduced to aprox. 1-1.5mm.
...

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron Hopkins

Werks Racing

Originally Posted by Werks (Post 6208170)

Hello Team_Orange, all of our engines are set up out of the box to run 30% nitro!

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing

Originally Posted by smb17 (Post 6324516)

Will there be seperate parts soon? I'd like to buy another cooling head some time. Already bent it =P I'd like a back up just in case it I do more damage!:lol::ha: