Yes. I even like to run the 2013 on the B6. Wakes up the bottom nicely.

Got to run the B2 engine last night, I was really impressed on how it worked, It felt very smooth and easy to drive. The low end power didnt feel as snappy as the B5 engine and felt like it had a little less top speed than the B6. Run time I feel could be really good, however last night was the first race on the engine so I didnt want to completly lean it down. This engine is very worth the price and It can easily compete with the $300-$500 engines. I am going to keep using it.

amainhobbies.com carries the engine

Ran the engine with the 2058 werks pipe, #5 plug, werks clutch with two 1.0 springs and two .9 springs, #7 restrictor (stock).

Here's a vid of the main
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOgu91y_yAg

I think I've seen a video of that track somewhere else with the video focused on someone using a B6. I can remember thinking to myself, "a B2 would be perfect for that track."

:nod:

I have a werks b5, I picked it up used, about 2 gallons on it. The issue I have is that it idles great, and top end is great, a little rich, the problem I have is at half throttle it is really blubbery, almost cutting out. I am using the 2057 pipe with the extender, on power masters 30%. Any ideas?

Most likely I would think bad plug or too rich on the bottom and lean on the top? Could also be something wrong with the engine. When you buy stuff used it's a crap shoot because you have no idea what the previous owner did with the motor but I'd check the plug first to make sure that's ok then look at tune as I mentioned.

The plug is new, pretty sure it is not lean on top I didn't have my temp gun but the cooling head was pretty cool after hanging its tounge out. But 2 rainy days in a row and no relief in sight, so I won't be able tO mess with it for a day or three

Ron,
I have a B5 that has 6 gallons on it and have not had one problem. Today, after running for 5-6 tanks, I took a break. When I went to start the motor again, I heard a wierd noise (sounds like maybe rear bearing?). The motor has great pinch and idles great. Is it worth just getting a new rear bearing or should I just buy a new motor?

I have a big race this weekend in Florida, how can I get that bearing asap? Any help would be appreciated.

Love the motor and would have no problem purchasing another one.

Thanks,
Pete the Greek:)

Being really rich on bottom and lean on top will result in an overall lower temperature than if both needles were rich. So that still can be the issue that you are experiencing. When it stops raining try leaning the bottom and richening the top and see if the performance improves.

Hey Pete, I hate to say this but that's a difficult one for me to answer. There are a multitude of things in your can that can cause "wierd noises" ;) If you have eliminated everything except the engine as the possible cause then you need to pull the engine apart and check the bearing. Once the engine is apart simply press your thumb against the inner race and rotate. If it feels notchy or rough then your bearing needs to be replaced. You can pop on to A-mains site to check pricing on one as you have to decide what is the right course to go down your self. Personally at 6 gallons you are probably going to need to replace the p/s set or get a pinch in the next 2-3 gallons anyways. If it was me what I probably would do if budget allows is pick up another engine and a bearing. I would use the old engine as my practice/club race engine and have the new one as a back up and big race motor. Hope this helps a bit!

Thanks, I will give it a shot

werks B5
 

Hi, I received my modified B5 with new design heat sink. Is it normal that I turn the crankshaft with flywheel attached to it I could turn it around with less effort but of course it is still tight. The pinch is not as tight as my new stock B5 (old heat sink B5) that I could not turn it around. Probably the piston has been lapped. So I would like to seek some clarification whether the new B5 has less piston/sleeve tolerances for easy break in?. This is by far the easiest engine to break in. Thanks.

If it is one of mine we do not hand lap the Werks engines.....I do nothing to affect the fitment of the engine as it comes from the factory !

your best bet is to ask whoever modified it... and Neal already answered if its his

I have a B5 that i am about to put away for the winter. What do I need to do to get ready to store it. Is there anything I can do to keep the carb. seals from going bad over the winter?

Thanks

You use to hand lap the B5's, what has changed?